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Malaysia - June 2003


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Penang - Georgetown
The trip from Hat Yai in Thailand to Penang in Malaysia by minibus was absolutely mad. It started off well enough - up to the border that is. We were delayed at the border since the monk that travelled with us was lead to a check up room after being diagnosed with a fever. All the foreigners were subjected to a temperature check for SARS detection. Apparantly all Asian travellers are now immune to the disease? It is hilarious to see these kinds of discriminatory measures in effect. In Europe this would have immediately resulted in public outrage and at least one forced resignation. But of course much stranger things than this happen in Malaysia. Some of us in the bus were already getting xcited about the prospect of angling in the 2 million baht promised by the Thai government for anyone contracting SARS within Thai borders. But the monk was allowed to proceed at last. The monk had tried to cross the border before but was judged too cash strapped. This time he brought enough dosh.

A couple of kilometers into Malaysia the bus had to stop to hand over a bribe of a couple of ringit to a police officer, apparantly the pay-off for a smooth handling of the border crossing. Who's afraid of SARS? But - we had lost at least half an hour at the border and this we needed to catch up so our driver would be in time to make it to collect his load back to Hat Yai. What followed was a mad dash to get to Penang in time in atrocious traffic conditions. I am not squeemish but I felt like telling him that if he wanted to kill himself he could do so but without us.

On the road a pugnant smell introduced us to a dominant national produce of Malaysia, rubber. The raw rubber in the trucks give off a smell of smelly French cheese.

The change in culture between Thailand and Malaysia is apparant at once. Over are the friendly curious looks, instead I instantly get a "Hello honey".