MICHELE'S MUSINGS

HELLO EVERYONE! SELEMAT NATAL AND TAHUN BARU. THAT MEANS MERRY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR FOR YOU NON-BAHASA INDONESIAN SPEAKERS. WELL, I WROTE ABOUT 220 PAGES OF MUSINGS ABOUT OUR DOINGS OVER THIS LAST MONTH IN INDONESIA…DECIDED THAT TYPING IT ALL IN WOULD BE A WASTE OF A PERFECTLY GOOD SHOPPING DAY…SO HERE IS THE TOP FAVORITES LIST INSTEAD
BALI
1. ARRIVING FROM BANGKOK TO BALI AND SEEING DREW'S SISTER DANA AT THE AIRPORT AS PLANNED,AND ON SCHEDULE …A GREAT WAY TO START THINGS. WE HEADED STRAIGHT TO UBUD AND STAYED AT THE SAME PLACE I DID 6 YEARS AGO CALLED ARTJAS'S HOMESTAY, WHERE A PRIVATE BUNGALOW IN A GARDEN SETTING WITH BEAUTIFUL BREAKFAST COST 3 BUCKS FOR 2.
2. UBUD- CULTURAL CENTER, LOTS OF GREAT SHOPPING FOR CRAFTS MADE OF WOOD, STONE (IF YOU ARE MASOCHISTIC ENOUGH TO LUG IT AROUND),SILVER, TEXTILES AND CLOTHING. IT HAS GROWN AND SPRAWLED IN A PLEASANT TASTEFUL BALINESE WAY. THE TEMPLE CEREMONIES AND DANCES ARE SO PROLIFIC THAT YOU CAN ALWAYS COUNT ON SEEING PEOPLE IN TRADITIONAL BALINESE DRESS- SARONG AND SASH FOR ALL, LACE BLOUSEFOR WOMEN, AND A HEAD SCARF TIED JUST SO FOR THE MEN. WOMEN OFTEN HAVE A BEAUTIFULLY STACKED TRAY OF FRUITS OR OTHER OFFERIN PILED 1-2 FEET HIGH ON THEIR HEADS AS THY WALKE IN A PROCESSION THE THE TEMPLE. JUST PART OF DAILY LIFE IN BALE. THE ATTENTION TO DETAIL AND AESTHETICS ARE SEEN IN EVERY ASPECT OF ARCHITECTURE AND DAILY LIFE HERE. PEOPLE SIT MAKING SMALL BANANA LEAF BASKETS FILLED WITH RICE AND FLOWER PETALS, WHICH THEY OFFER THRU THE DAYS TO THE GODS WITH A PRAYER AND TWIREL OF INCENSE.
3. ROAD TRIP TO TULOMBEN WHERE WE SNORKELLED OVER A SHIP WRECK, DESPITE LIMITED VISIBILITY, AND A BIT OF RAIN WAS GREAT….IT WAS OUR FIRST DIP SINCE HIKING IN NEPAL AND FELT DELICIOUS. WE HAD A DRIVER/GUIDE WHO LIKED TO TALK AND I WAS PLACED STATEGICALLY IN THE FRONT SEAT TO PIMP HIM FOR QUESTIONS. THE POLITICS IN INDONESIA HAVE BECOME AN INTERESTING TOPIC. BEFORE NOONE TALKED OUT OF FEAR, NOW THEY DON'T KEEP QUIET. THERE IS DEFINITELY SOME ANIMOSITY BETWEEN THE MUSLIMS AND CHRISTIANS. THE BALINESE ARE HINDUS AND LIVE IN THEIR OWN WORLD.
4. 2 DAY ROAD TRIP TO WHE WEST END OF THE ISLAND. WE HIRED A GOOD HUMORED DRIVER AND GUIDE NAMED GIDE (PRONOUNCED G'DAY…LIKE G'DAY MATE). FOR AN OVER NIGHTER. WE WENT TO MENJANGAN ISLAND TO SNORKEL IN THE NATIONAL PARK THERE. THIS ENTAILED HIRING A BOAT WITH DRIVER AND GUIDE. WE WERE VIRTUALLY THE ONLY TOURISTS THERE.
5. HIKING AROUND LAKE TAMBLIGAN THROUGH A BEAUTIFUL RAINFOREST/JUNGLE WITHOUT THRONGS OF PEOPLE, AND NO ADMISSION FEES. THERE AREN'T MANY PLACES LIKE THIS LEFT IN BALI.
6. WALKS IN THE COUNTRYSIDE TO VIEW THE BEAUTIFUL TERRACED RICE FIELDS. MY FAVORITE SITE WAS TO WATCH THE DUCK HERDERS MOVE THEIR DUCKS FROM PADDY TO PADDY…NO KIDDING. THE FARMERS PAY DUCK HERDERS TO "CLEAN UP" AFTER THEY HARVEST THE RICE. This ensures the rice will all sttart at the same time in neat rows.
7. THE FOOD- YUM. MANGO JUICE SMOOTHIES, GADO-GADO,SATE, FRUIT SALAD…. FISH COOKED WITH SPICES IN BANANA LEAVES.
8. ATTENDING BALINESE DANCES IN TH EVENINGS AT TEMPLES ACCOMPANIED BY GAMELON ORCHESTRA, A ROW OF BRASS BOWL TYPE INSTRUMENTS STRUCK WITH MALLETS WHICH CREATE HAUNTING MELODIES. DREW ENJOYED WATHING THE GIRL IN FRONT OF US PLAY WITH HER TONGUE STUD DURING THE PERFORMANCE.
9. SEEING DREW BEDECKED IN SARONG AND NOT QUITE TIED RIGHT HEAD SCARF AS WE PROCEDED WITH HUNDREDS OF BALINESE IN A TEMPLE PROCESSION.
10. ENJOYED EVERYTHING MORE THE SECOND TIME AROUND…BALI IS A GOOD PLACE FOR A RELAXING VACATION…
DOWN SIDE…AGGRESSIVE HAWKERS ,AND NEED TO BARGAIN VICIOUSLY AS PRICES MAY BE INFLATED 4 OR MORE TIMES THE ASKING PRICE…TOO MANY GUIDED SITES WITH ADMISSIONS. EASY TO GET CONSUMERED-OUT.
SULAWESI TOP 10
1. DIVING 6 DAYS IN THE NORTHERN ARM OF SULAWESI OUTSIDE OF MANADO OFF OF BUNAKEN ISLAND. MY FIRST DRIFT DIVING ALONG WALLS…AT TIMES WE'D DRIFT AWAY FROM THE BOAT, ASCEND 20 METERS AND DRIFT RIGHT BACK TO THE BOAT… AMAZING! THE CORALS -SOFT AND HARD WERE SPECTACULAR.
2. TOP FAVORITE SITINGS UNDER THE BIG BLUE…LIONFISH, LEAF SCORPION FISH, SEA TURTLES, SEA SNAKES, CROCODILE FISH, PUFFER FISH, BAT FISH, RAYS, BUMPHEAD PARROT FISH , AND REEF SHARKS. (WORST EXPERIENCE…FENDING OFF AN ATTACKING TRIGGER FISH PROTECTING ITS NEST WITH KARATE KICKS…MAN, THOSE SUCKERS HAVE HUGE FANGLIKE TEETH STICKING OUT OF THEIR MOUTHS.
3. WE STAYED AT A FRIENDLY PLACE CALLED NUSANTARA DIVE CENTER (NDC) AND NEGOTIATED AN ALL MEALS, EQUIPTMENT AND DIVING PRICE. THE STAFF WERE PROFESSIONAL AND FRIENDLY. THERE WAS ALWAYS SOME FORM OF MUSIC IN THE EVENINGS…OUT FAVORITE WAS "LANA THE ROCKER", A MIDDLE AGED SPANDEXED BEDECKED LADY WHO HAD THE MOVES OF ELVIS WITH A FEW OF HER OWN(BACKWARD ROLL WITH SPREAD EAGLED LEGS…ON STAGE ). SHE WAS TOTALLY ENAMORED BY DANA AND I BECAUSE WE WE "SO SEXY"…NORTHERN SULAWESI, WITH ITS MAINLY CHRISTIAN POPULATION IS MUCH LIKE THE PHILAPPINES (I THINK), AND LESS LIKE OTHER MUSLIM AREAS IN INDONESIA. WE WERE REALLY CATERED TO AT NDC…THEY TRIED WITH THE FOOD, BUT IT NEVER REALLY WAS UP TO BALINESE PAR. WHAT NORTHERN SULAWESI LACKED IN AESTHETIC APPEAL AND FOOD, IT MADE UP FOR IN GENUINE KINDNESS, SMILES, AND HOSPITALITY…NOT JUST AT NDC, BUT EVERYWHERE.
4. PUBLIC TRANSPORT…YES, THIS WAS A LOT OF FUN. WE TOODLED AROUND THE COUNTRYSIDE IN PUBLIC BEMOS FOR ABOUT 8 CENTS A POP, WERE GREETED BY VIRTUALLY EVERONE , HELPED BY THE LOCALS,AND NEVER CHEATED OR TOLD THE WRONG PRICE…THIS IS NOT THE CASE IN BALI OR OTHER PARTS OF INDONESIA THAT I HAVE VISITED. WE HAD NICE PEOPLE GUIDE US FOR FREE, JUST TO PRACTICE ENGLISH…I HAD A LADY INVITE ME TO HER HOUSE…WHICH I DID THE NEXT DAY AND HAD A LESSON IN INDONESIAN (A HOOT). WE HAD A GUY AT A BUS STATION ON CHRISTMAS DAY LEAVE, THEN COME BACK LATER TO GET US BECAUSE HE WANTED TO BE SURE WE WERE SAFE…WE HAD CHRISTMAS WITH HIS CHRISTIAN NEIGHBORS AND TREATS FROM HIS MUSLIM AUNT AND UNCLE WHO WELCOMED US ENTHUSIASTICALLY…OF COURSE MANY PHOTOS OF US WERE TAKE WHICH WE WILL HAVE TO MAIL TO THEM. THESE LITTLE BUT VERY RICH EXPERIENCES ARE THERE FOR THE TAKING WHEN YOU TRAVEL BY PUBLIC TRANSPORT IN SULAWESI. ON THE 10 HOUR BUSRIDE WE DID LATER I WAS ACTUALLY HANDED SOMEONES BABY FOR A PORTION OF THE TRIP…PICTURES WERE TAKEN, IT WAS AN HONOR.
5. SITES NEAR MANADO IN THE NORTH THAT WERE INTERESTING INCLUDED THA SAWANGAN (CEMETARY) WHERE THEY USED TO BURY PEOPLE ABOVE GROUND SITTING ON A PLATE OF RICE IN THE FETAL POSITION. THE TOMBS RESEMBLE SMALL HOUSES WITH A DEPICTION OF THE PERSONS "OCCUPATION" CARVED INTO THE ROOF. MANY ARE OVER 500 YEARS OLD. THE CUSTOM WAS STOPPED ABOUT A HUNDRED YEARS AGO THANK TO THE MISSIONARIES WHO CONVINCED THEM AN EPIDEMIC WAS SPREAAD BY THE CUSTOM. THE HOUSES AROUND THE AREA ARE MINNEHASA STYLE. THE PEOPLE ORIGINALLY CAME FROM MONGOLIA. THE HOUSED ARE ON STILTS, AND FITTED TOGETHER WITHOUT NAILS. THEY HAAVE VERANDS, CAARVED BALCONIES, AND METAL ROOFS. CLIMBING VOLCANOS-LOKON AND MAHAWU, BOTH ACTIVE, AND SPEWING STEAMING SULFER WAS FUN. WE SAW NO OTHER TOURISTS. THE WALK UUP THE LAVA FLOW TO LOKON WAS A ROAD-WIDE EXPANSE OF ROCK THAT LOOKED LIKE RAGING WATER FROZEN IN STONE THRU THE JUNGLE.
6. TANGKOKO NAT'L PARK IN THE FAR ne TIP WAS A REMOTE AREA WITH A SMALL VILLAGE, JUNGLE AND BLACK SAND BEACHES. HERE WE HIRED GUIDE, AS REQUIRED AND NECESSARY, TO TAKE US ON JUNGLE WALKS. WITH UNTU OUR GUIDE WE SPOTTED BND OF MACAQUE MONKEYS (BOUT 60) COME DOWN FROM THEIR SLEEPING TREE TO FORAGE FOR INSECTS (ONE JUMPED FROM TREE TO DREW'S BACK TO THE GROUND). WE SAW THE SLOTH-BEAR LIKE MARSUPIAAL CALLED A CUS CUS, A RARE SITING, RED NOBBED HORNBILLS THAT SOUND LIKE A HELICOPTER OVERHEAD, AND THE AADORABLE TARSUS MONKEY, WHICH IS SEEN AT NIGHT IN THE STRANGLE TREES. YOU CAN GET ABOUT 4 FEET FROM THESE ADORABLE CRITTERS. THEY JUST STARE BACK AT YOU, UNAFRAID. THE BUSRID BACK WAS CLASSIC. WE ROAD ON TOP, WITH OUR BACK PACKS, AND A FEW OTHER YOUNG GUYS DOWN THE ROAD SUITED TO 4WD VEHICLES. WE FIT NARROWLY UNDER DOWNED TREES, AND HAD TO GET OFF ONE TIME AS THE BUS GOT STUCK…IT WAS A BLAST.
8. THE JUNGLE TREES…FICUS, STRANGLE TREES…LEARNING ABOUT THE USES…THIS ONE IS GOOD FOR BUILDING BOATS…THET ONE IS USED FOR THE BARK TO MKE A TEA AGAAINST MALARIA…WE SWUNG FROM RATAN VINES LIKE TARZAN…DREW CLIMBED UP AN AMAZING TUBE SHAPED STRANGLE TREE CREATING A SCAFFOLD LIKE I HAVE NEVER SEE.N.
9. SOUTHERN SULAWESI. WE FLEW TO UDJUNG PANDANG, AND THEN BUSED 10 HOURS NORTH TO TANA TORAJA. THIS IS BEATIFUL COUNTRY, COOLER, WITH GORGEOUS RICE PADDIES, JUNGLE , AND INTERESTIN ROCK FORMAATIONS. THE PEOPLE ARE CHRISTIANS MAAINLY, WITH A LOT OF ANIMISTIC BELIEFS THROWN IN. WE HIRED A GREAT GUIDE NAMED BERTUS FOR 5 DAYS. WE NEGOTIATED 2 DAAYS WITH CAR AND DRIVER, AND 3 DAYS BY PUBLIC BEMO. HE TOOK US TO ALL THE ANCIENT AND NEW BURIAL SITES. MANY ARE HIGH IN THE CLIFFS WITH ADJACENT BALCONIES OF EFFIGIES REPRESENTING THE DEAD. SOME ARE IN NATURAL LIMESTONE CAVES…SKULLS AND BONES STREWN ABOUT. UNBORN DEAD BABIES WERE BURIED IN TREES…WHEN THE TREE ENCASED THEM THEIR SOUL WAS OFFICIALLY BACK IN HEAVEN. WE ALSO ATTENTED THE ELABORATE AND EXPENSIVE FUNERAL CEREMONIES, WHICH LAST FOR UP TO 5 DAYS, TAKE MONTHS TO PREPARE FOR AND INVOLVE SPECIAL CEREMONIES AT THE "FAMILY HOUSE" WHICH INVOLVE LARGE PROCESSIONS OF PEOPLE AND ANIMAL SACRIFICE (DOZENS OF WATER BUFFALO AND PIGS). THE TRADITIONAL HOUSE IS ON STILTS AND HAS A HUGE SWOOPING ROOF SAID TO RESEMBLE THE SHIPS THE ORIGINAL SETTLERS COME ON FROM INDOCHINA…NOW VIETNAM. LOTS OF MONEY GOES INTO THE UPKEEP OF THE "FAMILY HOUSE, EVEN THOUGH IT MAY LAY EMPTY, ONLY THERE FOR CEREMONIES. ONCE THE ORIGINAL MEMBERS DIE THE REMAINING MEMBERS MOVE TO A SMALL HOUSE ADJACENT TO IT IN A NON TRADITIONAL STYLE.
10. WE HAD 2 DAYS OF HIKING THRU RICE PADDIES AND VILLAGES UP IN THE HIGHLANDS WITH BERTUS…IT WAS A BALL, AAND A LOT OF LAUGHS AS WE BALANCED PRECARIOUSLY ON MUDDY SLIPPERY TERRACES BETWEEN FLOODED RICE PADDIES. GOT EVEN MORE FUN WHEN IT STARTED TO RAIN…I CRACKED UP WHEN DREW SLIPPED IN THIGH DEEP INTO THE MUCK…THANK GOODNESS FOR TEVAS. THE PANORAMAS WERE FABULOUS. AND WATERBUFFALO EVERENTERTAINING.
THE ONLY DOWNSIDE TO SULAWESI WAS THE UNINSPIRED FOOD (FISH AND RICE, AND FRIED NOODLES), AND THE NEWS THAT NEARBY WAS SOME FIGHTING BETWEEN RELIGIOUS OR POLITICAL GROUPS RESULTING IN TRAPPED TOURISTS, BURNED HOUSES, AND PLENTY OF INJURIES…AN AUSTRIAN GUY TOLD ME ABOUT IT AND SAID HE FEARS THE WORST FOR INDONESIA. SO MUCH FOR THE BRIEF TOP 10 LIST…YOU'LL HAVE TO EXCUSE TYPOS, AND MISSPELLINGS AS MY TYPING ENDURANCE HAS REACHED CAPACITY….LOVE TO ALL XXXXOOOO Michele.

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