MICHELE'S MUSINGS


HARD TO BELIEVE IT'S TIME ALREADY TO SPREAD OUR WINGS AND HEAD EAST. WE ARE IN SAN FRANCISCO VISITING DREW'S MIATA….I MEAN HIS SISTER DANA, WHO IS CAR SITTING FOR US (SHE IS THE BEST SISTER IN THE WORLD YOU KNOW). THERE ARE ALWAYS TONS OF LAST MINUTE DETAILS TO TAKE CARE OF….LIKE….OOPS, THEY FORGOT TO GIVE ME THE TICKET FROM LONDON BACK TO THE U.S, GO BACK TO THE AIRPORT…AND RETURNING CALLS TO THE TRAVEL AGENT WHO FORGOT WHY HE WANTED ME TO CALL HIM…SO WE REVIEWED THE ITINERARY TOGETHER AND "OH YEAH" THEY CHANGED THE DAY OF OUR FLIGHT FROM THAILAND TO INDONESIA…"BUT DON'T WORRY ABOUT IT BECAUSE THEY'LL PROBABLY CHANGE IT SEVERAL MORE TIMES" (WHICH OF COURSE EASED MY MIND). WE ARE LOOKING FORWARD TO 2 WEEKS IN THAILAND. WE ARE PLANNING TO GO TO AN ISLAND CALLED KO SAMET, WHICH IS NOT TOO TERRIBLY FAR FROM BANGKOK BY BUS AND BOAT. WE MAY CHANGE OUR PLANS DEPENDING UPON THE EFFECTS OF THE MONSOONS IN THE AREA. WE'LL TRY TO RELAX AND KEEP THE RUNNING AROUND TO A MINIMUM TO DECOMPRESS FROM OUR ROAD TRIP IN NORTH AMERICA…AND TO PRE-CUPERATE (IS THAT A WORD?) FOR THE NEXT 6 WEEKS IN NEPAL WHICH WILL ENTAIL LOTS OF UPHILL HIKING. WE ARE GOING TO GO INTO THE SOLO KHUMBU REGION (EVEREST). WE WILL START OUR WALK FROM JIRI, AND HOPEFULLY MAKE IT TO GOKYO RI….(FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO CAN ANSWER ALL THOSE "JEOPARDY" GEOGRAPHY QUESTIONS). I HAVE A SUSPICION THAT I HAVEN'T WRITTEN SINCE ANCHORAGE…WOW…THAT WAS THOUSANDS OF MILES AGO…AND DREW WROTE A BLURB IN FAIRBANKS ABOUT DENALI…2 WEEKS (EONS) AGO. WE DECIDED TO TAKE THE "TOP OF THE WORLD" HIGHWAY AND WERE REWARDED WITH 4 LYNX SIGHTINGS AT CLOSE RANGE, AND A QUICK BUT CLOSE BULL MOOSE SIGHTING (RARE BECAUSE IT WAS MOOSE SEASON, AND ALL HUNTERS KNOW THAT THE MOOSE CAN READ THE "HUNTING SEASON OPEN" SIGNS). WE CROSSED THE YUKON RIVER ON A SMALL FERRY THAT PULLED RIGHT UP ONTO THE GRAVEL BANKS …WE DROVE ON…AND 5 MINUTES LATER DROVE OFF THE OTHER SIDE IN DAWSON CITY. DAWSON CITY IS A WELL PRESERVED GOLD RUSH TOWN WITH A LOT OF INTERESTING HISTORY. WE TOOK THE SCENIC DRIVE SOUTH THRU BRITISH COLUMBIA, IT WAS DEFINITELY FALL WEATHER. WE MET A GERMAN GUY WHO PUT US TO SHAME…HE HAS BEEN TRAVELLING FOR 11 YEARS! I DIDN'T EVEN ASK HOW THIS WAS POSSIBLE FOR HIM…I FIGURED IT WAS A QUESTION THAT HE MUST HAVE BEEN VERY TIRED OF ANSWERING! WE FINALLY CAME INTO SOME INDIAN SUMMER WEATHER SOUTH OF PRINCE GEORGE. THE BIG MOUNTAINS FADED IN THE DISTANCE AND WERE REPLACED BY ROLLING HILLS AND RANCHES. THE POPULATION DENSITY INCREASE STRUCK US BOTH. IT HAD BEEN A WHILE SINCE WE DEALT WITH TRAFFIC. WE CUT OFF OF HIGHWAY 1 TO THE "SEA TO SKY HIGHWAY" (WHICH GOES PAST WHISTLER). IT FELT LIKE THE SIERRAS AT FIRST. WE DROVE THRU A FAIRLY NARROW CANYON ALONG THE FRASER RIVER. IT WAS "PINEY", WARM AND DRY. WE SPENT THE DAY SITTING BY THE RIVER READING OUR BOOKS, AND LOOKING UP NOW AND AGAIN TO SEE HOW THE LIGHT CHANGED THE SHADOWS AND PATTERNS ON THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS SURROUNDING US. WE NEVER REALLY PLAN AHEAD AS FAR AS KNOWING WHERE WE ARE GOING TO CAMP FROM ONE DAY TO THE NEXT, IT ALWAYS SEEMS TO WORK OUT BETTER THAT WAY (THE FREE PLACES ARE NEVER IN THE BOOKS OR ON THE MAPS). THE COOLEST THING ABOUT THE SEA TO SKY HIGHWAY IS THAT THE TOPOGRAPHY CHANGES SO DRAMATICALLY IN SUCH A SHORT PERIOD OF TIME. SOON WE WERE LOOKING AT SNOW COVERED PEAKS AND GLACIERS…MINI WATERFALLS DRIPPED FROM THE ROCK FACES ALONG THE HIGHWAY…WE HAD A BRILLIANT HIKE UP THE THE JOFFREY LAKES FED BY A GLACIER…I THINK THEY WERE THE BLUEST LAKES I HAVE EVER SEEN! WE NOTICED THAT A TRAIN GOES THRU THIS AREA…IT MUST BE ONE OF THE NICEST TRAIN RIDES IN NORTHAMERICA. WE WERE PLANNING A LITTLE URBAN KAYAK TRIP IN INDIAN ARM NEAR DEEP COVE IN NORTH VANCOUVER (A HOT TIP FROM A LOCAL), BUT A FULL ON THUNDERSTORM ROLLED IN SO WE HUNG OUT AT A CAFÉ IN DEEP COVE (DEFINITELY A COOL PLACE TO VISIT IN V.C…AS YOU CAN RENT KAYAKS RIGHT THERE ON THE BEACH AND CAMP ON OFF SHORE ISLANDS). WE ARRIVED IN SEATTLE A LITTLE SOONER THAN EXPECTED, AND WERE LUCKY TO BE GIVEN OUR OWN "PAD" BY JANIS (MY OLD ROOMMATE WHO WAS FROELICKING IN BALI). WE BEGAN THE TASK OF WHITTLING DOWN FROM A TRUCKS WORTH OF STUFF...TO 2 BACKPACKS. AS ALWAYS, THERE WASN'T ENOUGH TIME TO SEE EVERYONE AND DO EVERYTHING. I WILL ALWAYS FEEL AT HOME IN SEATTLE AND LOVE TO BE THERE AMONG MY FAVORITE HAUNTS, AND WONDERFUL FRIENDS. THE BABY BOOM HAS HIT THERE AS WELL, AND IT WAS A LOT OF FUN MEETING THE NEW "SHARMA TWINS" AND FINDING OUT THAT BY OUR RETURN IN JULY SABIEN AND JAY WILL HAVE THEIR SECOND (MY ASSIGNMENT IS TO GO AROUND THE WORLD COLLECTING INTERESTING NAMES TO SUBMIT TO THE LIST). OUR KAYAKS AND TRUCK WERE GIVEN A GOOD HOME…STEVE AND LORI ALREADY HAVE THE"YAKS" UP IN THE GARAGE…I HOPE THEY HAVE LOTS OF FUN WITH THEM. WE EVEN MANAGED TO HOOK UP (IN SEATTLE) WITH PATRICIA AND DAVE WHO WE MET AT DENALI(2X)…LORI AND STEVE GAVE THEM A PLACE TO STAY ON SHORT NOTICE ON A RAINY NIGHT (MUCHO GOOD KARMA TO THEM)…AND WE STAYED UP PAST OUR BED TIME ENJOYING EACHOTHERS COMPANY ONE LAST TIME…TILL THE NEXT TIME. WE FLEW TO S.F. ON FRIDAY AND LEAVE TOMORROW (TUESDAY)…HOPE I DIDN'T FORGET ANYTHING CRITICAL. CROSS YOUR FINGERS, KNOCK ON WOOD, SAY A PRAYER…LOVE TO ALL, MICHELE

September 8th
HI EVERYONE, aLASKAN SUMMERS ARE SAID TO LAST ABOUT 6 WEEKS. tHIS YEAR FALL HAS COME 2 WEEKS EARLY. THE FIREWEED THAT WAS BLOOMING WITH A TALL PURPLE FLOWER AND LINES THE ROADSIDES HAS NOW LOST IYS FLOWER AND HAS TURNED TO A STALD OF GLOWING RED LEAVES. WE LEFT THE KENAI PENENSULA AFTER THE WET STUFF SET IN...IT DIDN'T LOOK LIKE IT WAS GOING TO LIFT ANY TIME SOON (BUT YOU NEVER KNOW AROUND HERE)...WE HAD TO FORGO PLANS TO PADDLE THE SWAN RIVER,HIKE THE HARDING GLACIER, AND PADDLE OUT OF SEWARD...OH WELL NEXT TIME). WE HAD A LOT OF FUNIN THE KENAI...HIGHLIGHTS WERE: DIGGING FOR RAZOR CLAMS AT CLAM GULCH WITH OUR FRIENDS LISA AND CHRIS WHICH ENTAILED PUTTING ON WADERS AND SLOGGING THRU A LITTLE QUICK SAND-LIKE MUD...ONCE WE WE ON A CLAM BED THEY WERE JUST PROLIFIC. WE WERE GIVEN A QUICK COURSE IN CLAM CLEANING...AND THEN GOT TO EAT THE HEAVENLY FRUITS OF OUR LABOR. LISA TOOK US ON A QUICK CANOE TRIP DOWN THE KENAI ONE DAY AND AT THE END WE WATCHED CHRIS CATCH A SILVER SALMON IN ABOUT 30 SECS...WHILE THE GUY NEXT TO HIM PULLED IN 30 RED SALMON IN ABOUT 45 MIN (HE'D BEEN AT IT ALL DAY GOING FOR A SILVER). MY OVERALL IMPRESSION IS THAT ALASKA IS INCREDIBLY ABUNDANT WITH FOOD...AND I CAN'T HELP BUT BELIEVE THAT THIS RICHNESS MUST HAVE EXISTED IN THE LOWER 48...BEFORE WE "MESSED WITH MOM". MY FAVORITE KENAI EXPERIENCE WAS WHEN DREW AND I TOOK OUR KAYAKS ON THE WATER TAXI FROM HOMER SPIT (I THOUGHT THERE WOULD BE NO WAY OUR BOATS WOULD FIT ON THIS FUNNY LITTLE BOAT THAT MIGHT HAVE BELONGED TO POPEYE)ACROSS KATCHEMACK BY TO TUSKA BAY WHICH IS BASICALLY A FJORD WITH A GLACIER AT THE BEGINNING OF IT. wE PADDLED THE ISLANDS AND OTHER BAYS IN THE AREA, SEEING LOTS OF SEA OTTER AND BALD EAGLES. WE HAD OUR OWN PRIVATE BEACH, ATHAT IS AFTER THE FAMILY IN THE STRANDED BOAT GOT GOING...THEY HAD TO WAIT FOR THE TIDE TO COME IN. WHILE WE WERE THERE THE TIDES FLUCTUATED ANYWHERE FROM 16-21 FEET. THIS MAKES THE LANDSCAPE CHANGE DRAMATICALLY. WHOLE ISLANDS SURFACE AT LOW TIDE, THEN DISAPPEARAT HIGH TIDE. WE HAD TO PADDLE TO A CREEK THAT FALOWED INTO THE OCEAN IN A LITTLE WATERFALL TO GET OUR WATER (WE FILTERED IT MOM). OUR TAXI CAME TO PICK US UP RIGHT ON TIME A FEW DAYS LATER. I LOVED HOMER...IT WAS SO BEAUTIFUL,AS YOU DRIVE ALONG THE BAY ALL YOU SEE IS GLACIER AFTER GLACIER SEPARATED BY A CHANNEL OF BLUE WATER. OUR NEXT ENDEAVER WAS DENALI NATIONAL PARK. WE WERE BLESSED WITH THE BEST WEATHER OF THE WHOLE SEASON...WE HAD 6 DAYS OF SUN WITH ONE OR TWO SHORT SHOWERE...MT MCKINLEY WAS OUR EVERY DAY SHOWING OFF IT'S 20,000 FEET OF MAJESTY. THE SYSTEM IN DENALI IS CONFUSING TO THE FIRST TIME VISITOR. YOU HAVE TO RESERVE A CAMPSITE AND BUS TRANSPORTATION, ARE ONLY ALLOWED TO DO THIS 2 DAYS IN ADVANCE...AND IF YOU DO IT WHEN YOU ARRIVE YOU USUALLY HAVE TO WAIT A DAY OR TWO TO GET ON THE BUS AND MAY NOT GET THE CAMPSITE OF YOUR CHOICE. WE ENDED CAMPING THE FIRST NIGHT OUTSIDE THE PARK IN WHAT LATER TURNED OUT TO BE SOME KIND OF A WIND TUNNEL...WE WERE AWAKE ALL NIGHT WAITING FOR THE TENT TO COLLAPSE IN ON US. WE ABANDONED SHIP AT 6 AM...I HAD TO LAY ACROSS THE TOP OF THE TENT WHILE DREW UNSTAKED AND ROLLED IT UP. OUR FIRST DAY IN THE PARK WE DID ABOUT 5 HOURS WORTH OF NATURE WALKS, WHICH WAS FANTASTIC. THE RANGERS EXPLAINED THE FLORA AND FAUNA, GAVE A DOGSLED DEMO (ITS HOW TH ERANGERS GET AROUND IN THE WINTER. THE NEST 3 DAYS WE CAMPED WITH BACKPACKS LEAVING THE TRUCK BEHIND...THIS MEANT RIDING THE CAMPER BUS (15.50 UNLIMITED USE). FROM THE BUSES WE SPOTTED WILDLIFE AND THE DRIVERS WERE HAPPY TO STOP. OUR FAVORITE SPOT WAS WONDERLAKE...ABOUT 90 MILES INTO THE PARK. WE MET A LOT OF NICE FOLKS, WHO WE HIKED WITH...WE HIT PEAK FALL COLORS...THE HILLS WERE GOLDEN AND TUNDRA ABLAZE RED WITH BLUBERRIES. I WAS SURPRISED AT HOW DIFFICULT IT IS TO WALK ON THE SPONGY MATTRESS LIKE TUNDRA...(HOW AM I GOING TO RUN AWAY FROM A MOOSE ON THIS STUFF?). WE WATCHED A FULL MOON AND SUN RISE SHINE ON MCKINLEY. aFTER ALL THE RANGER TALKS WE COULD IDENTIFY ALL THE PLANTS,SCAT AND ANIMAL TRACKS (IN THE HARSH NORTH CLIMES THERE AREN'T TOO MANY TO REMEMBER). WE SAW CARIBOU, GRIZZLIES, MOOSE, FOX, DAL SHEEP,BIRDS SUCH AS THE MIGRATING SAND CRANE, SPRUCE GROUSE, PTARMIGAN,GREAT HORNED OWLES,EAGLES...BEST OF ALL I WAS ABLE TO QUELL MY PARANOIA BOUT BEARS AND TURN IT INTO SIMPLEY A HEALTHY RESPECT. WE ARE NOW IN FAIRBANKS...WE HUNG OUT AT CHENA HOT SPRINGS AND WAITED TO SEE THE NORTHERN LIGHTS, BUT DIDN'T...WE SAW A LITTLE IN HOMER...WE WERE HOPING FOR THE REDS, GREENS, AND PURPLES...NOW WE WILL HEAD ON OUR 2400 MILE JOURNEY BACK TO SEATTLE VIA "THE TOP OF THE WORLD" HIGHWAY. HASTA LA VISTA, MICHELE AND DREW

August 18th
ANCHORED DOWN IN ANCHORAGE...YOU MICHELE SHOCKED FANS WILL KNOW WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT. WE FINALLY FIGURED OUT THAT LIBRARIES ARE THE BEST PLACES TO USE THE INTERNET...FREE (THOUGH NOT ALWAYS OPEN). THE SAGA CONTINUES...SINCE DREW'S LAST DELIBERATIONS IN THE YUKON WE HAVE REENTERED THE GOOD OL US OF A...MOST OF THE RV'S ARE HEADING THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION WHICH IS A GOOD THING. iT IS PRETTY COOL HERE...PUTTING ON THE POLAR FLEECE EVERY DAY. THE LEAVES ARE ALREADY TURNING AND THEY ARE EXPECTING A HARD WINTER BECAUSE OF EL NINO. GAS WAS ABOUT 1.50 TO 1.69 A GALLON UNTIL TODAY, WHEN IT SUDDENLY DROPPED TO 1.17, GO FIGURE. UPON LEAVING THE YUKON AND ENTERING BRITISH COLUMBIA WE IMMEDIATELY NOTICED NICER CAMPGROUNDS WITH FREE DAY USE (EACH PROVINCE IS SO DIFFERENT)...UP TILL THIS TIME THE ONLY THING THAT I FELT WAS MISSING WAS WE HADN'T REALLY BEEN MEETING PEOPLE ALONG THE WAY. IT SEEMED AS SOON AS I PUT IN MY REQUEST TO THE UNIVERSE...IT HAPPENED...WE RAN INTO THE SAME COUPLE AT 2 CAMPGROUNDS, AND THEN AGAIN WHILE KAYAKING IN MUNCHO LAKE. THEY WERE TAKING A YEAR OFF FROM WORKING AT HP WITH THEIR LAND ROVER AND 2 KAYAKS...THEY DIDN'T KNOW WHERE THEY WERE GOING TOMORROW IF YOU ASKED THEM...REAL FREE SPIRITS. WE STOPPED AT GORGEOUS LIARD HOT SPRINGS FOR A DIP...IT WAS REALLY INTERSTING BECAUSE YOU WALKED QUITE A WAYS ALONG A BOARDWALK ACROSS A MARSH...THEN ENTERED A FORESTED AREA...VERY LUSH. THERE WAS A BATHHOUSE AND 20 PEOPLE OR SO ENJOYING THE RIVER...A LITTLE FALLS...LIKE A SHOWER MASSAGE. IT ALL LOOKED STRANGELY FAMILIAR...I HAD SEEN A TV SHOW WHILE VISITING OUR PAL TARA IN CAPE COD LAST MONTH ON BEAR ATTACKS. THIS WAS THE PLACE WHERE A MOTHER AND SON,AND ANOTHER MAN WERE ATTACKED BY THE SAME BEAR (ONLY THE KID LIVED). HOW STRANGE IT FELT TO COME HERE BY ACCIDENT. AS WE LEFT WE SAW 3 PARK RANGERS RUSHING IN WITH RIFLES... WE PICKED UP A HITCHHIKER FROM BELGIUM NAMED FRANCESCO...HIS GOAL WAS TO HITCHHIKE THE WHOLE ALCAN...IT WAS TAKING MUCH LONGER THAN HE THOUGHT, AND WITH NO TENT, HE REALIZED HE SHOULD HAVE PLANNED MORE. WE LEFT HIM IN WATSON CREEK AT THE SIGN FOREST, WHER PEOPLE BRING SIGNS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD. AS WE DROVE WESTWARD, WE HIT A SUNSET RAINSTORM THROUGH THIS PICTURESQUE VALLEY...THE LIGHTING WAS SURREAL...DOUBLE RAINBOWS AND ALL. WE FOUND AN OLD ROAD THAT LED TO A LOCAL FISHING SPOT...FIGURED IT MUST HAVE BEEN PART OF THE OLD HIGHWAY SOME TIME AGO...SLEPT IN THE TRUCK AS WE OFTEN DO WHEN IT RAINS...IT'S TIGHT, BUT WE ARE REALLY GETTING OUR SYSTEM DOWN. WE FIND AT TIMES WE ARE A TOURIST ATTRACTION...A BIG BUS WILL PULL UP THE TRAINED PASSENGERS FILE OUT...WALK RIGHT UP TO US..."THOSE THINGS HARD TO USE?""HOW MUCH THEY GO FOR"..."MY AREN'T YOU ORGANIZED"...MY FAVORITE WAS THE GUY WHO THOUGHT WE HAD A PONTOON BOAT, AS HE SHOWED HIS WIFE...(I GUESS THE 2 BOATS TOGETHER SORT OF LOOK LIKE A PONTOON BOAT). WE REACHED THE ALASKAN BORDER AUG 12, AND NOTICED IMMEDIATELY THERE IS MUCH LESS BEAR PARANOIA HERE. PRETTY MUCH THERE ARE BEARS EVERYWHERE...JUST MAKE A LOT OF NOISE. WE HEADED FOR VALDEZ ON THE RICHARDSON HIWAY. ITS VERY PICTURESQUE, LOTS OF WATERFALLS AND CLOSE VIEWS OF GLACIERS. WE CAMPED WITH A NICE COUPLE FROM PORTLAND JOHN AND LISA...JUST ENGAGED LIKE 2 DAYS. WE MET THEM AGAIN LATER ON A GLACIER CRUISE ON THE BEAUTIFUL SHIP CALLED THE LU LU BELL. WE ENJOYED THE CAPTAINS 5 HOUR MONOLOG ON THE HISTORY WILDLIFE ETC. WE SAW LOTS OF OTTERS (MY FAVORITE PART WAS SEEING A GROUP OF 10 OR SO RAFTING ON THEIR BACKS TOGETHER...THEY CAN BE UP TO 6 FEET LONG...), PUFFINS,SEALIONS, AND A COUPLE OF ORCA WHALES. THE ICEBURGS WERE COOL (HA HA), BUT DREW WAS DISSAPPOINTED THAT WE COULDN'T GET CLOSE ENOUGH TO THE COLUMBIA GLACIER TO SEE IT CALF. FROM VALDEZ WE HEADED TO THE OLD MINING TOWN OF KENNECOT AND THE SISTER TOWN OF MCCARTHY WITH ITS 6 WINTER RESIDENTS AND 100 SUMMER RESIDENTS. IT WAS QUITE INTERESTING TO LEARN THE HISTORY...THE RICHEST COPPERMINE IN THE WORLD (70% COPPER IN THE ORE...AVERAGE IS 17%). THE MINE WAS CLOSED WITH 2 HOURS NOTICE TO THE WORKERS IN 1938(LAST TRAIN OUT). THE TOWN WAS PRESERVED UNTIL 1960 WHEN A ROAD WENT IN...IT WAS LIKE A FREE HARDWARE STORE...IT WAS PILLAGED. STILL, IT IS INTERSTING. THE ROAD IN IS HELL ON TIRES...60 MILES AND ABOUT 3 TO 4 HOURS. THERE IS A FANTASTIC GLACIER AS WELL, WHICH YOU CAN HIKE TO. DREW AND I DID ABOUT 8 MILES IN THE RAIN...WE SKIPPED THE WALK TO THE GLACIER. I DROVE BOTH WAYS...WE BOTH AGREED IT WOULD BE BEST SINCE DREW DIDN'T THINK HE COULD DRIVE THAT SLOW AND I DIDN'T THINK I COULD KEEP MY MOUTH SHUT THAT LONG. OH, ON THE WAY WE STOPPED AT A 267 FOOT CANYON WITH A BRIDGE THAT PEOPLE WERE BUNGY JUMPING OFF OF. WE CAME UPON IT BY ACCIDENT, AS DREW HAD STOPPED TO TAKE A BRIDGE PHOTO, AND I TOOK OUT THE BINOCULARS. THERE WERE NO SIGNS OR ANYTHING...APPARENTLY THE ROAD SERVICE DOESN'T KNOW ABOUT IT, BUT A FEW OF THE WORKERS ARE KNOWN TO SHOW UP NOW AND AGAIN FOR A JUMP. WE MET A CUTE COUPLE, FRED AND PEGGY. FRED WAS AN IRON WORKER WHO DOESN'T JUMP OFF BRIDGES (BAD JU JU), AND PEGGY HAD JUST DONE A JUMP AND WAS ON A COMPLETE HIGH (I NEVER WOULD HAVE PLANNED TO DO IT, SHE SAID). THEY HAD ALSO JUST GOTTEN ENGAGED WITHIN THE LAST DAY OR TWO. NOW WE ARE HEADED FOR THE KENAI PENNINSULA. WE ARE SLOWING ARE PACE A LOT...WILL VISIT A FRIEND IN SOLDOTNA TOMORROW...WE'VE ONLY SENT CARDS SINCE MEETING IN MALAYSIA 5 OR 6 YEARS AGO. THAT'S ALL FOR NOW. LOVE MICHELE

July 29th

GREETINGS FROM VERMONT! WE ARE DAWDLING IN NEW ENGLAND LONGER THAN EXPECTED. AFTER LEAVING TARA IN CAPE COD WE SPENT A DAY EXPLORING BOSTON. WE WALKED MANY HOURS FOLLOWING THE "FREEDOM" TRAIL" WHICH TAKES YOU THRU THE BOSTON COMMON (THE FIRST U.S. PUBLIC PARK), VERY COOL OLD CEMETARIES WHERE MOST OF THE PATRIOTS WERE BURRIED, PAUL REVERE'S HOUSE, AND THE CHURCH WHERE HE PUT THE LANTERNS (ONE IF BY LAND, TWO IF BY SEA), THE USS CONSTITUTION (THE OLDEST COMMISIOONNED WARSHIP AFLOAT…1797), AND MORE. WE LEARNED THAT THE EXPRESSION "KING PIN" COMES FROM THE CENTER PIN ON THE SHIPS STEERING WHEEL. IT HAD A KINGS CROWN CARVED INTO IT SO AT NIGHT WHEN STEERING, YOU COULD FEEL THE CROWN AND KNOW YOU WERE GOING STRAIGHT AHEAD. "LETTING THE CAT OUT OF THE BAG" COMES FROM THE PUNISHMENT OF THE DAY. 12 LASHES WITH THE CAT-O-NINE TAILS….WHICH WAS KEPT IN BETWEEN FLOGGINGS IN A FELT BAG. FROM BOSTON WE DROVE NORTH ALONG THE NEW HAMPSHIRE COAST WHICH SPANS ALL OF 25 MILES. THE MANY HOUSES ALONG THE COAST ARE AWESOME …DON'T MISS THE ONES IN NORTH HAMPTON. WE SKIPPED THE RV/CAMPGROUND SCENE (WE ARE SPOILED OUT WEST), AND INSTEAD OPTED FOR A LOVELY FIELD BEHIND AN AMAZING OLD STONE CHURCH. THIS MADE DREW VERY NERVOUS…JUST LIKE HE GETS WHEN I WALK ON GRAVES…I'M TRYING TO LOOSEN HIM UP. WE HAD QUITE A TREAT WHEN WE WERE TOTALLY SPOILED WHILE STAYING IN KENNEBUNKPORT MAINE WITH THE RIMMER FAMILY AT THEIR GRAND OLD SUMMER HOUSE. DREW AND I HAD A SWEET CABIN ALL TO OURSELVE'S AND DINED ON DELICIOUS SEAFOOD. CHARLIE, THE FAMILY PATRIARCH BARES AN UNCANNY RESEMBLANCE TO MY AUSSIE PAL GARTH (INCREASING MY URGE TO GET TO AUSTRALIA AND PESTER MY PAL). WE DID A LITTLE KAYAKING, AND HUNG OUT AT THE SANDY BEACH ON THE HOTTEST DAY OF THE SUMMER IN MAINE, WHICH MADE EVEN THE FRIDGID ATLANTIC FEEL INVITING. WE DIDN'T SEE HIDE NOR HAIR OF BARB OR GEORGE BUSH, BUT WE DID SEE THEIR SECRET SEVICE BOAT WHIZ BY. ONE EVENT OF NOTE…WE DID HAVE A THREE WAY SCRABBLE TIE OF 163 POINTS EACH (HEY ALL YOU ENGINEERS OUT THERE, WHAT'S THE PROBABILITY OF THAT?). WE HEADED UP MAINE'S PICTURESQUE COAST…DOTTED WITH CHURCH STEEPLED VILLAGES, AND QUIET LOBSTERPOT BESPECKLED BAYS. WE CAMPED IN SEVERAL BEAUTIFUL PARKS (SEE DREW'S DELIBERATIONS). LOTS OF GOOD ANTIQUE BARGAIN'S OUT HERE (NEXT TIME I'LL COME BACK WITH A TRAILER). I REALLY ENJOYED THE HIKE WE DID IN ACADIA (SOUTH BUBBLE ROCK…COULD SEE ALL THE ISLANDS SURROUNDING…AND HAD A NICE SCRAMBLE DOWN TO A LAKE. 7/29/1998 HE IS DEFINITELY TRYING TO KILL ME… YESTERDAY HE CONVINCED ME TO CLIMB TO THE TOP OF THE 6200 FOOT PEAK OF MT WASHINGTTON IN NH…WE HIT THE TRAIL AT 7:00 AM….UP UP UP WE WENT. WE TOOK A WRONG TURN WHICH PUT US ON A TRAIL THAT WE LATER FOUND OUT TO BE THE MOST DIFFICULT HIKE IN THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. TO BE FAIR THE MAP WE PUCHASED (FROM A RANGER STATION!) WAS WRONG. THE STEEP TRAIL EVOLVED INTO A BOULDER FIELD WHICH ENTAILED SOME PRETTY FUN SCRAMBLING.. THE FUN ENDED FOR ME WHEN IT TURNED INTO ROCK CLIMBING A WALL FACE. I CONSIDERED CRYING AS AN OPTION…BUT REALIZED IT WOULN'T HELP ME ANY. DREW HELPED ME FIND FOOT HOLDS…IT WAS DICEY. THE LAST MILE WAS GOING UP HILL ON SCREE WITH 45 MPH WINDS BRINGING THE TEMP TO 42 DEGREES WITH WIND CHILL. TOOK US 6 HOUR TO GO UP. I OPTED FOR A RIDE DOWN…THE PARK OFFERS $20 PP RIDES DOWN AND IT'S POSTED NO HITCHHIKING (SCUM BAGS)… I PIMPED THE PARKING LOT FOR A FREE RIDE DOWN WITH DREW STANDING SHEEPISHLY BEHIND ME (TOUGH GUY). WE ARE NOW BACK WITH THE RIMMERS IN NORWICH, VT…TOMORROW WE HEAD TO CANADA…OUR FIRST MAJOR STOP IS THE BOUNDARY WATERS OF MN NEAR THUNDERBAY, AND THEN ON TO THE JASPER BANFF AREA…THEN NORTH TO ALASKA. TALK TO YOU LATER…UNLESS DREW DECIDES TO FEED ME TO A GRIZZLY.

July 20th
WOW, HARD TO BELIEVE WE SPENT A WHOLE WEEK IN PHILLY…IT WENT FAST. WE WERE GIVEN A WONDERFUL PARTY AT THE FOUR SEASONS BY PHYLLIS AND BILL (DREW’S DAD AND HIS WIFE)…IT WAS PERFECT(30 FRIENDS AND FAMILY)… SMALL ENOUGH TO TALK TO EVERYBODY. WE SPENT MANY HAPPY HOURS EATING OUR WAY FROM RELATIVE TO RELATIVE. I LIKE PHILLY. IT IS GREAT PEOPLE WATCHING TERRITORY. IT SMELLS LIKE ALL BIG CITIES (ON ALL CONTINENTS)…A MIXTURE OF EXHAUST FUMES, URINE, AND ETHNIC FOODS. WE HUNG OUT A LOT WITH DREW’S MOM AND HER FRIEND AL…PLAYED WITH THEIR WEB TV, LOOKED AT OLD SLIDES AND PHOTOS…GOT TO SPEND TIME WITH DREW’S "GO GETTING" GRANDMA WHO YEARNS TO BE 80 AGAIN; NOW IN HER LATER 80’S SHES RECENTLY HAD TO GIVE UP THE STAIRMASTER. WE LEFT FAMILY BEHIND WITH HAPPY MEMORIES, AND HEADED NORTH ON THURSDAY… COULD IT ALREADY BE MONDAY JULY 20TH?…OUR VOYAGE HAS TAKEN US BY THIS POINT TO CAPE COD…LAND OF SALT BOX HOUSES, ADORABLE AGED LITTLE VILLAGES SPORTING SOME SORT OF WIND MILL OR GRIST MILL DATING BACK 2 OR 3 HUNDRED YEARS, ENGLISH GARDENS, PONDS EVERYWHERE… (THE PONDS HERE LOOK LIKE LAKES WHERE I COME FROM…ANYONE OUT THERE KNOW HOW TO SCIENTIFICALLY DIFFERENTIATE BETWEEN A LAKE AND A POND?)…JUST IN GENERAL FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO HAVE NEVER BEEN HERE, EVERYTHING IS REALLY, REALLY CUTE…WE TOOK THE KAYAKS OUT YESTERDAY ON THE BAY IN ORLEANS FOR A 2 HOUR PADDLE AND I’M AFRAID WE MAY HAVE WORN POOR TARA (OUR HOSTESS WITH THE MOSTESS ) OUT. WE ARE VERY HAPPY TO BE REUNITED WITH OUR PAL TARA (FORMERLY OF SAN DIEGO), SHE’S A TRAVELING SPEECH THERAPIST WORKING HERE ON THE CAPE FOR THE REST OF THE SUMMER. THE HIGHLIGHT OF OUR STINT HERE WAS SUNDAY’S WHALE WATCHING EXTRAVAGANZA; WE SAW BREACHING, WE SAW FIN FLAPPING, WE SAW TAIL FLUKE SMASHING…ONE PARTICULAR HUMPBACK WHALE CARRIED ON WITH THIS ATTENTION SEEKING BEHAVIOR FOR THE BETTER PART OF AN HOUR. THE BIOLOGIST ON THE BOAT WHO WAS EXPLAINING WHALE BEHAVIOR SAID THAT OFTEN THIS IS DONE TO COMMUNICATE TO WHALES FAR AWAY. WE HAD A BABY WHALE CIRCLING OUR BOAT FOR A WHILE…SIMPLY CURIOUS. ..THEN, JUST WHEN YOU WERE SO "STUFFED" WITH EXCITEMENT AND FEELING LIKE THINGS COULDN’T GET BETTER…THEY DID…"DESSERT"…A HUGE POD OF ATLANTIC WHITE SIDED DOLPHIN CAME OUR WAY…MOTHERS WITH BABIES RIPPED THRU THE WATER ALL AROUND THE BOAT. THEY SURFED OUR WAKE…IT WAS A RELIGIOUS EXPERIENCE. NOW FOR A LITTLE WHALE TRIVIA…THERE ARE NOW ABOUT 12,000 HUMPBACKS LEFT. THEY ESTIMATE THAT WHEN THE WHALING INDUSTRY STARTED HERE IN THE 1600’S THERE WHERE ABOUT 120,000. DOLPHIN ARE ACTUALLY WHALE. PROVINCETOWN, WHICH IS AT THE TIP OF THE CAPE WAS THE FIRST LANDING SITE FOR THE PILGRIMS…THEY LATER LANDED AT PLYMOUTH. PROVINCETOWN WAS ONCE THE WEALTHIEST TOWN IN THE NEW WORLD DUE TO THRIVING WHALING AND FISHING INDUSTRIES. IT IS NOW A PROSPEROUS TOURIST TOWN WITH A THRIVING GAY COMMUNITY. TOMORROW WE HEAD TO BOSTON. WE INTEND TO EXPLORE THE HISTORIC PARTS OF TOWN, CHECK OUT SOME MUSEUMS (THIS MAY BE OUR ONLY WAY TO ESCAPE THE 90 DEGREE HEAT PLUS HUMIDITY), AND DO A PILGRAMAGE TO "CAR TALK PLAZA," WHERE WE CAN PERHAPS GET A GLIMPSE OF OUR IDOLS CLICK AND CLACK THE TAP-IT (MALIOTTSI) BROTHERS. IF YOU DON’T KNOW WHAT I’M TALKING ABOUT YOU NEED TO LISTEN TO YOUR PUBLIC RADIO STATION…ARE YOU A MEMBER? THEN WE HEAD OFF TO MAINE…BYE FOR NOW.

July 6th
Whoa…things have really slowed way down. We have enjoyed being out in the country, north of Milwaukee house sitting for my brother while he and his wife took a houseboat down the Mississippi for a few days. I love it out in the country…rolling farmland with patches of woods. The winding Milwaukee river…little towns barely on the map with big histories (Waubeka-home of flag day),makes you wonder what it was like here 100 years ago. Now there is only the corner tavern, and a few store that never look open. Along our bike ride yesterday we stopped at the cemetery that belonged to the old stone Lutheran church. To read the old German names ….born 1842, died 1933…and realize that person was here when Wisconsin was just barely a state, and the Indians still had a presence in the "big woods" (Laura Ingalls Wilder was born in Wisconsin, she moved to the Prairies of South Dakota later). Our sunset bike ride was wonderful, an hour travelling on rolling country roads with only ½ dozen cars was just like it was when we were kids…That's fun! We took the Kayaks out on lake Michigan in the morning, and couldn't believe how warm it was, and how blue and clear it was! I was great being on what felt like, and looked like the ocean…nice swells to make it interesting…yet no surf to worry about. It's so pretty it almost makes you want to live here, except its only paradise for 3 months a year. We've been doing a few family things…attended a birthday party so got to see a whole slew of relatives in one crack, and have been visiting grand ma in the hospital (she broke her hip while gardening…tried to sit on one of those rolling sitting carts…in the ER they found her with oodles of lily bulbs all stuffed up her shirt and pants…couldn't figure out how they got there…leave it to grandma.). She was thrilled to see pictures of me wearing her wedding dress (1933). We are still really enjoying freeway the kitty-I'm REALLY going to miss her. Drew laughs at me because I won't give her to just anyone who wants her…but as it turns out the tenetive plan is to return her to Randy who will be out in Philly when we are. Well its off for a run now…another beautiful sunny day.

June 26th
hello everybody!!! Drew has already put his vows on the web. i 've somehow lost mine...so they may or may not appear. The ranch we stayed at was located just over kebler pass (on the other side from crested butte...towards paonia. I think I found the most beautiful part of colorado. The ranch is adjacent to the Gunnison national forest which made for awesome hiking and horseback riding. The cabins were really cute, and we would pack the whole gang of 18 in the evenings into our cabin for dinner...sort of pot luck style. The last evening we were down to about 7...Drew's brother David treated us to a "concert" singing and playing the guitar to the delight of the audience who joined in by shaking pill bottles, blowing into bottles, slapping legs, and shaking baby eli's rattle. the hit song was definitely the lyle lovett tune "she's no lady she's my wife". We had perfect weather the whole time...about 80 degrees or so, with cool nights. we held the actual ceremony tues the 23 at a place called horse ranch park. we found a beautiful hilly knoll covered with wild lupine and a plethora of multicolored wild flowers including, indian paint brush, sweet yellow clover, columbine. We forded one small stream to get to just the right spot, which definitely added to the festivities. We went out to dinner at the Madd dog ranch cafe, which was OK as far as food went..its owned by Joe cocker and his wife..They sort of cater to bikers,so my aunt and uncle Tom and Chris who came out on their Harley to join us thought it was pretty cool. Back to the mountains... the hills are covered with the largest living organism (so i'm told) aspen groves; supposedly there are some of the last stands of bleeding heart aspen (bleeding red out of sorrow for unrequited love of an indian brave and maiden). We plan to come back in the fall...We may look into renting a 14 bed lodge either next year or the year after. The ranch is made up of 3 homesteads, and the lodge is on one of them...we would have to commit to it for 10 days for it to be worth their while opening it up. Think about it...maybe we could get a bunch of folks to do a week here and there to keep the place filled for 10 days. Oh yeah, one of the coolest things for me was getting to round up the cattle on horseback. Next time I'm going to help with the horse round up...I'm told it is totally wild!! On thursday we got legally married...in colorado that means that we showed our drivers licenses, and gave them 20 bucks at the Gunnison county court house. In turn we got a certificate and a special wedding gift (a bag with laundry soap, a paper towel sample, deodorant...and other equally exiting items). We are now spending a few days at my aunt and uncles in sedalia (not too far from Denver) where my parents, cousins, aunts, uncles, and grandma etc...are hanging out, eating a lot, bouncing on the trampoline, eating more, hit a few golf balls on a local driving range (we all took tips from dad)...it's pretty hot so we'll wait till it cools off to go on a hike. Sunday we'll start back on the road...

love to you all!!! michele

© 1998 michele_drew@hotmail.com


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