Some of the Stained Glass on the West Window of Beverley Minster.
What a difference between the two church structures that I saw that day. Where Durham Cathedral is the ultimate expression of the Romanesque style in English cathedrals, Beverley Minster is a stunning display of the Gothic style. In fact, I would put Beverley as perhaps the finest Gothic church in England.
You may notice that I'm very careful about not calling Beverley Minster a cathedral. That's because it isn't. While the Minster is the size of a cathedral, it isn't the home to an archbishop. Therefore, it's just a church. I guess it's a little too close to York for another cathedral in the area. But, while it is subservient to York in the Church organization, I think the structure is superior to York Minster in architectural terms.
The first thing one notices about the church is the number
of statues on the exterior. Assorted saints, bishops, warriors, kings, and
gargoyles populate the outside of the church. The greatest concentration
of them is around the west door. But, this door is not the one that is used
to enter the building. Instead, one goes through a door on the north side.
It's inside the minster that the true splendor of the Gothic structure stands
out. The pointed arches down the nave and the rib vaulting supporting the
ceiling are all hallmarks of the Gothic style in England. One also notices
that the preponderance of statues decorating the exterior is also utilized
in the interior. There are little figures of musicians, gargoyles, and even
stone representations of physical ailments all over the walls. For example, look at the picture to the left. This statue, called "Toothache", is typical of the types of statues on the walls of Beverley Minster. It adds an
informal touch to an otherwise austere structure.
The statue work reaches its zenith at the Percy tomb. It's right next to the main altar in the choir. Don't look at the actual grave because it's pretty plain. Instead, look at the canopy above the tomb. The only way to describe it would be a symphony in stone. The multiple arches sweep upward toward the canopy's crown, upon which sits Christ supported by angels. I feel very comfortable saying that it's the finest tomb ornamentation I've ever seen.
I have to make mention of a pillar that stands in the north transept. It seems that the north transept was in danger of collapsing a couple of hundred years ago. The walls were eventually shored up and reinforced. However, the pillars that had been holding the structure up were not replaced. One of these pillars has a definite bend to it. Yes, it's made of stone. I was pretty surprised to see it. Bending is not a quality one associates with stone. Yet, there it is; bent, but still supporting the ceiling. I understand that other examples of bent stone can be found in Salisbury Cathedral and Winchester Cathedral. However, this was my first exposure to it. All I can say about it is that there must be some divine intervention involved to keep that pillar from breaking.
I also walked around the entire exterior of the structure. There are plenty of flying buttresses and ornamented towers to please any Gothic purist. In fact, the only thing that the Minster is missing is a central tower. The Minster's guide book says that the tower fell in 1213 and was never replaced. I suspect that the reason why it wasn't replaced was as a way of displaying the fact that York is the area's primary church.
I spent quite a while inside Beverley Minster. In fact, I enjoyed it so much that I went back the next evening. I got there about a half an hour before it closed. I was the only person in there except for three guides. I wondered the building alone. The evening light came through the west window, illuminating the interior with a golden hue. Not a sound could be heard. It was just so easy to imagine this building as part of another world and another time. And it was very easy to conjure up the feelings of awe that such a building must have inspired in people through the ages.
I'm really glad I made the effort to see Beverley Minster. It doesn't
have the historical significance of York Minster. But, the lack of tourists
and the impressive architectural features allow Beverley to equal (if not
slightly surpass) the splendors of York. It should be seen. Beverley Minster
is open from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. in the summer, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m during the
rest of the year. There is no charge to enter the Minster; but, a charge
of £2 is imposed if you want to take pictures in the interior.
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