Mills Bouldering
Gear to Bring
Bouldering Equipment
1. Shoes
2. Chalk Bag
3. Crash Pad
4. Brush to clean off chalk from holds.
Top Rope Equipment
Both the Rim Road and Breakneck climbing areas have
many high quality top rope climbs.
1. 50 meter rope
2. Lots of webbing, multiple lengths needed some short 6-10 foot
loops and 2-3 long 15-20 foot loops. Be sure to buffer trees with
scrap carpet or similar padding to prevent scaring of the trees
you anchor to. Tree damage is on of the biggest problems at the
Mill. Padding trees will help keep the Park rangers happy.
3. Locking carabiners
4. 6-8 quick draws
Recommended Climbs in
the Rim Road Climbing Area
Sunshine
5.9*** |
Mini
Ovest aka Peter Pan 5.11d*** |
Sport Routes
The Projects, located in the far end of Rim Road
past the no-outlet sign, have few high quality overhanging sport
leads. Unfortunately Park officials have closed the Projects to
climbing for now, hopefully in the next year or so they will be
reopened as a lead only climbing area.
Please respect the
currant climbing ban in the Projects.
The first two sport lines are on the massively overhung EuroChoss Wall, the first sport line you walk under is Way of the Carpenter 5.12d***, 4 anchors, 2 rap-hangers, this route is very stout, every move is hard, the clips are improbable and the crux is in the top half of the route. The next lead on the far right of the wall is Dew Point 5.11c***, 5 anchors, 2 rap-hangers, this climb gets consistently harder as you climb higher, the crux is the final move getting the very top. Walk another 200 feet upstream to the Golden Buttress where there are two more sport leads. The Green Hornet 5.9-5.10a, 4 anchors, 2 rap-hangers is located on the wall just before the Golden Buttress. Note: do not lower off Green Hornet the rope runs badly over rock. The final and best sport lead is McPod 5.11d****, 5 anchors, 2 rap-hangers, this overhanging line runs up diagonally to the left along the buttress on some of the biggest holds at the Mill. Note: the clips on McPod are challenging, the crux is the final roof high on the route. |
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Other Recommended Items
1. water
2. food
3. first aid kit
4. Tarp to cover sometimes wet ground.
5. Bug repellent just in case, though rarely needed.
6. head lamp or flashlight
7. rain gear
DISCLAIMER
The information contained within or linked
to by this website is not bouldering instruction. You should
receive professional instruction from a certified bouldering
instructor before attempting to boulder. Bouldering can result in
severe injury or death. You boulder at your own risk. "Mills
Bouldering" accepts no liability whatsoever for actions
taken by individuals based upon information presented by or
linked to by this website. The editor and publisher of this
website offer no warranty that the content of this guide is
accurate, the use of this website for the purpose of bouldering
indicates that you understand its limitations and agree to accept
full responsibility for your actions in a potentially life
threatening sport.
Use of a crash pad is always
recommended.
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