Mills Bouldering Gear to Bring


Bouldering Equipment
1. Shoes
2. Chalk Bag
3. Crash Pad
4. Brush to clean off chalk from holds.

Top Rope Equipment
Both the Rim Road and Breakneck climbing areas have many high quality top rope climbs.

1. 50 meter rope
2. Lots of webbing, multiple lengths needed some short 6-10 foot loops and 2-3 long 15-20 foot loops. Be sure to buffer trees with scrap carpet or similar padding to prevent scaring of the trees you anchor to. Tree damage is on of the biggest problems at the Mill. Padding trees will help keep the Park rangers happy.
3. Locking carabiners
4. 6-8 quick draws

Recommended Climbs in the Rim Road Climbing Area

Sunshine 5.9***
Windowpain 5.11***
Laid Back 5.10b***
Crater Expectations 5.11d***

Mini Ovest aka Peter Pan 5.11d***
The Arete 5.7+***
Mission Impossible 5.10d***
Five Fingers Arete 5.8***

 

Sport Routes
The Projects, located in the far end of Rim Road past the no-outlet sign, have few high quality overhanging sport leads. Unfortunately Park officials have closed the Projects to climbing for now, hopefully in the next year or so they will be reopened as a lead only climbing area.

Please respect the currant climbing ban in the Projects.

The first two sport lines are on the massively overhung EuroChoss Wall, the first sport line you walk under is Way of the Carpenter 5.12d***, 4 anchors, 2 rap-hangers, this route is very stout, every move is hard, the clips are improbable and the crux is in the top half of the route. The next lead on the far right of the wall is Dew Point 5.11c***, 5 anchors, 2 rap-hangers, this climb gets consistently harder as you climb higher, the crux is the final move getting the very top. Walk another 200 feet upstream to the Golden Buttress where there are two more sport leads. The Green Hornet 5.9-5.10a, 4 anchors, 2 rap-hangers is located on the wall just before the Golden Buttress. Note: do not lower off Green Hornet the rope runs badly over rock. The final and best sport lead is McPod 5.11d****, 5 anchors, 2 rap-hangers, this overhanging line runs up diagonally to the left along the buttress on some of the biggest holds at the Mill. Note: the clips on McPod are challenging, the crux is the final roof high on the route.


Robby Rock Rat leading Dew Point just days before the the Projects were closed to climbing.

 

Other Recommended Items
1. water
2. food
3. first aid kit
4. Tarp to cover sometimes wet ground.
5. Bug repellent just in case, though rarely needed.
6. head lamp or flashlight
7. rain gear

 

Mills Bouldering
http://www.millsbouldering.com
http://www.oocities.org/millsbouldering/

Logistics

Map Page

Gear to Bring

Rim Road Area

The Projects

G.I. Crag

Breakneck Rocks

Roadside Area

North Country Trail

Links

Mill Rats Review

Access Fund Index

Pick up a copy of the Mill's climbing guide here.


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E-mail: millsbouldering@yahoo.com

© 2003 Dean Morgan

DISCLAIMER
The information contained within or linked to by this website is not bouldering instruction. You should receive professional instruction from a certified bouldering instructor before attempting to boulder. Bouldering can result in severe injury or death. You boulder at your own risk. "Mills Bouldering" accepts no liability whatsoever for actions taken by individuals based upon information presented by or linked to by this website. The editor and publisher of this website offer no warranty that the content of this guide is accurate, the use of this website for the purpose of bouldering indicates that you understand its limitations and agree to accept full responsibility for your actions in a potentially life threatening sport.
Use of a crash pad is always recommended.
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