Mills Bouldering
Mill Rat's Review No. 2, December 2000 by Bob Value

Special thanks from Mills Bouldering go to Bob Value for contributing another Mill Rat's Review.

Season Wrap Up

On the access front 2000 was bit of a disappointment. Personal issues kept the Access Fund's contract trail builder from fulfilling the 2000 National Trails Initiative schedule. On the bright side the new Director of Access and Acquisitions and I have been searching for a replacement to develop and implement the scope of work outlined in the proposal made to the DCNR in 1999. We hope to arrange a new site visit in December and schedule the work in late Spring of 2001.

On the climbing front 2000 was mostly consolidation. Bouldering at the Mill continued to be a big draw. There were numerous heinous sit starts added, for example, on the East Face of Island Block. Of the major new lines the following stand out as classic lines that have gone in over the past couple of seasons. Note: that this is not meant as an all-inclusive list but merely highlights of the higher quality/noteworthy lines.


Century Wall

Orangestretch: Between Orangefest and the right arête ending the wall. An extremely height dependant highball put up by Carl Samples in the Spring of 2000. Features a really long move off of shallow matching pockets to the finish, V3ish if you can make the reach.

Mono Extremities a.k.a. A Date with Disaster: Starting just right of the low ledge in the mid-right section of the wall, negotiate up through various thin pocket moves, including 4 monos, to a nerve-racking topout. Hot off the press still awaiting a second ascent. Dean Morgan, Fall 2000.


North Country Trail

Infectious Groove: Unusual for the Mills, this offset crack/layback, with sharp as nails features, offers spooky moves at easy V2 with an uncertain landing. Bob Value, Spring 2000.


Ecksandstein

Finally, after several seasons of various efforts on the Ecksandstein Traverse Project word has been received word that the traverse has been completed in both directions.

The Big Gun Down: The Former Ecksandstein Traverse Project from left to right. Summer 1999, Brian Janaszek V7?

The Fridgidaire Traverse: Chris Eckstein came back from Colorado and completed his namesake project from right to left in the Fall of 1999. Said to be slightly harder than the left to right route. V7/V8?


Breakneck

Gotta Want It: Located on an isolated outcrop 300 yards downstream of Breakneck. This problem done back in 1998 is fairly unique for the park. Starting as far back as possible, follow technical hand, fist and leg jams out a 15-foot ceiling crack. Probably V3 or V4 depending on hand size. Bob Value


Rim Road

East Face of Island Block Traverse: Brian Janaszek, 1999. Brian thought that it was "about V5" but there are a lot of folks running around with sand in their eyes.

Crater Expectations: Greg Phillips straightened out his line, which I erroneously reported as first done by Zink - there Greg! The line now avoids the large resting ledge on the left and tackles the final roof directly going at 12a or b.

Garden of Worldly Delights: Full low traverse of the South and West face. Starts in the hole on the West face and stays on the low line of "weakness" on the West face. Finish at the Northwest corner. V3 or V4. Bob Value, Fall 2000.

The Mill Rat's Review is your opportunity to write about happenings at the Mill. All submissions will be reviewed for appropriate content for the web. Articles may be up to 12 paragraphs in length. Send completed manuscripts to millratsreview@millsbouldering.com.

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Mill Rats Review #1
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