Technical Stuff
Last updated: 02FEB00 15:20
First, let me say that is not meant to be a comprehensive technical resource for
all things Alpine. Such a thing already exists at
team.net, on the
Alpine page. There is quite a bit of technical information on the
Tigers page
that is applicable to the Alpine too.
This page is for technical information that I have discovered about my Series 3.
It may be applicable to other Sunbeam models, and if I know this to be so, then
I'll state it.
Read this disclaimer before you ring your lawyer.
I welcome any comment, correction, clarification
on any topic here. I'm no expert!
Correct Carburettors for the Series 3 Alpine
The series 3 came in two models. One was a 'Roadster' with a soft top as standard,
and for which you could buy a hardtop at your option. The other was a 'GT' which
came with a hardtop as standard equipment, but had no soft top. The two models have,
as well as a number of other differences, different model carburettors.
The early Series 3 Alpines (prior to Oct 63) were fitted with a pair of downdraught
Zenith carburettors, which changed to a single twin barrel Solex carb for later
Series 3s. This article will concentrate on the early, Zenith-equipped cars.
The Roadster came with a pair of downdraught Zenith 36WIP-3 carbs fitted with small
round air-cleaners on the top of each carby. The GT came with a pair of downdraught
Zenith 36WIA-3 carbs fitted with a remote air filter, and a 'pancake' duct on top of
the carbs. The body of the two carbs is the same. They have different jet sizes and
the WIA model has an 'economy' valve which is blanked off in the WIP model.
Some say that the Roadster was fitted with the GT's air filter assembly when the
cars were destined for dusty locations (eg. Australia), as the Roadster's air
filters were not very tolerant of dust. I haven't been able to verify this yet. If
this was the case, was it just the air filter which was changed or did these cars
also get the GT's carbies?
Possible Alternative Carburettors for the Series 3
Here are some suggestions for alternative carburettors:
- Later Series 3 Solex - not a well regarded carb, probably the worst option.
- Fit twin, single barrel, downdraught, Weber ICTs (from a VW) to original
manifold. This weird fitment came from Bill
Lewis
- Twin DCOE40 Webers. Some manifolds for this fitment were cast up a while back.
Who knows when the next batch will be made. Can be jetted for the stock motor.
Will stay with the motor through all stages of tune. Also the firewall brace
on the car needs modified to clear the rear carb.
Jarrid Gross suggests trying 29mm venturis
and ~125 to 130 main jets as a starting point for a stock motor.
- Single sidedraught Weber. Lynx Australia makes a manifold to fit this carb to
a Hillman Hunter. The cylinder head face of the manifold needs machined to
make it fit on an Alpine. Russell
Maddock has this setup on his Alpine. Also the firewall brace on the car
needs modified to clear the carb.
- Twin, sidedraught, Zenith-Stromberg CD150s from a Series 5 Alpine. Correct
model CD150s (150 CD without temperature compensationmodel 3023/4) are very
rare according to Jarrid Gross, so different
model CD150 carbs are the most likely option. Can use Series 5 inlet manifold
and linkages.
Water Temperature Sender Unit
My temp gauge was not working, so I needed to trace down the reason. Three causes
sprung to mind, the gauge, the sender unit, and the wiring. I tackled them in this
order:
- The gauge (and wiring) can be checked by connecting a resistor (about 60 - 70 ohms)
in place of the sender unit. Turn on the ignition and the gauge will move to about
half scale if it's OK (mine did). Don't directly earth the sender wire or you'll
burn out the voltage regulator.
- Measure the resistance across the sender unit itself. Disconnect the wire from
the sender, and measure resistance from the connector to the body of the sender.
The sender unit should measure in the hundreds of ohms if the motor is cold.
Here are
the specs for the sender unit. Mine measured several million ohms, so it
was suspect.
- I decided to check the wiring just the same. I removed the earth strap from the
battery, then out came the temp gauge, and I disconnected the wires from it. I
checked the continuity of the wire to the sender unit - OK. I temporarily
reconnected the battery and checked the other wire - power was there. I checked
the earth wire that runs between each gauge. It was burnt away but the gauge
still moved when I substituted the resistor for the temp sender! There must be
more than one earth path for the gauge, possibly through the sender unit itself.
After replacing this wire I set off in search of a replacement sender unit.
A query to the
Alpines list resulted in Curt from Classic
Sunbeam sending me the original Smiths part number (TT4802/00). Curt had them
in stock, but he's in the USA and I'm in Australia, it wasn't worth shipping one
part if I could find a local source for them. A few phone
calls later I was able to cross reference the part to a 1974 Jaguar XJ12. The part
is made by VDO (P/N 320.045). It should be made of
brass. Don't accept the steel
part (P/N 320.046) as a substitute, it will corrode in the alloy thermostat housing.
BTW - the same part
(TT4802/00) is listed for Alpine series 3-5 and Tiger 1 & 1a.
Oil for Overdrive Gearbox
If your car does not have an overdrive this won't matter too much, but the gearbox
is designed to be filled with 30wt engine oil. If you have an overdrive this is
much more important. In addition, the oil must not be high in detergents
(as these tend to foam up) or have 'friction modifiers' added to it (the overdrive
works on friction cones, friction modifiers mean less friction).
Simple, non-detergent, non-friction modified, single weight, engine oil is not
easy to come by nowadays. One suggestion is to go to a lawnmower shop as 4 stroke
mowers use 30wt oil. Another suggestion is the specialist oil companies (eg
Duckhams, Penrite) who make oil for older cars (but they are expensive). Yet
another possible source is the racing fraternity, 30wt oil is used for running in
some race motors, I'm told. Good luck.
Clutch
The series 3 Alpine uses an 8inch clutch driven plate. When I was replacing mine, I learned that an 8.5in driven plate would fit the standard pressure plate and flywheel. An 8.5in plate from a Triumph 2000 or Vitesse will fit. The 8.5in plate will actually give less clamping pressure, due to the larger surface area, but it will last longer in theory, again due to the increase in area.
I also found that The Green Bearing Company makes a roller-type throw-out bearing which can be used in these cars (PN: CB-2033-C). You need to use the throw-out lever from a later Alpine with the smaller diameter throw-out bearing. If you have the spring-type pressure plate, you will need to keep the original pedestal that the throw-out lever pivots on (this pedestal is different height for spring vs diaphragm pressure plates).
The bolts that secure the throw-out pedestal to the gearbox were very loose on my car. I used locktite when putting these bolts back in.
Cooling System
The top radiator hose for a 1965-69 Toyota Landcruiser is a dead match for the top hose for the Series 3 Alpine. I have been unable to find an alternative for the bottom hose. It seems the stepped diameter hose and the engine water outlet facing to the right are an odd combination.
The radiator may be the same as the Singer Gazelle. At least my local radiator guy thinks so.
DISCLAIMER
I take no responsibility for any loss or injury incurred as a result of following
any procedure or action described on this page. I'm only describing what I have done
to my car, and information I have gathered for possible use on my car. Refer to the
correct workshop manual for your car for safety and procedural information.
This page hosted by
Get your own Free Home Page