I would use new clips, they are cheap. There is a special tool you can buy to install these clips but a front suspension shim ( the ones used on the lower wishbones ) turned upside down worked well for me. The curved bit supports the clip while you pull up.
Peter Cebalo
Auckland New Zealand
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Just pull the inner door panel off and roll the window up.. No problem at all!
John Suchak
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My son did this job on his Spitfire and I watched. I just did it on my GT6 and it was easy. Here goes:
get the old stuff out any way you can. It can be a pain, you may have to cut it into pieces, but get it out. In the process watch the clips and DON'T let them fall inside the door. I lost one on each door. If you do all is not lost, take the rear part of the door panel off reach inside and pick them up from the bottom of the door.
Get something like a thin piece of metal or rod (no more than 1/16 inch or so) that can be bent, but is strong. I used a piece of steel rod. Bend a hook in the end that will hook around the clips and pull them back up on the lip. Check that the clips line up with the places on the seal for the clips (you will see them). Start at one end, hook your "hook tool" over the clip and pull up while you press the seal flange into the clip. It will go in fairly easy. Next clip, etc.
Took me 10 minutes on the first one and 5 minutes on the second and that is on a GT6 so I had to trim the length.
Sam Gentry
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This is how I changed the window seals on my Midget last week. Only, since I was there anyway, I simply took off the door panel and inner door opening seals (plastic w/ silicone) to make things easier. THe metal I used was a piece of steel from the mounting bracket of an old electric ceiling fan. I made a 1/4" bend on the bottom with my vice and hammer, and a gradual bend bottom up, sorta like a check mark.
Like Sam said, just hold the clip in place by placing the bracket with the clip inside the checkmark and lining it up below the marks on the new seal. Pull up tightly on the bracket, and push down hard on the seal to ensure you get a good firm grip against the rubber and door lip, otherwise the clips will rattle loose. If your old rubber is pretty shot (Mine was 3/4 crumbled), then you may want to buy a new set of clips. Mine were all rusty from water that escaped past the seal, and I had a few breaks quite easily. Thankfully, I bought new (inexpensive) ones before hand. If you're doing this, and assuming spits have the same, I also changed the felt on the inside of the window (opposite the rubber seal) since they were shot as well.
While there, I also snugged up my window crank, door latch and handle, and greased the inner workings with white lithium grease (handle and latch) and some thick gold colored bearing grease that's been in my garage for thirty something years (window crank mechanism and track).
Mike Graziano
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One thing that I have found handy when installing the seals is to lay the seal on top of the opening where is is to be installed and mark the indentations where the clips go by placing a piece of black plastic electrical tape on the pained outer part of the door.
This will show you immediately where the clips are to go when the seal is in it's proper location. Otherwise, the indentations are not visible.
When you are done, the tape is easily removed.
Joe Curry
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When I changed my seal this last summer I took out the inner panel of the door, knocked the clips off with a screwdriver and picked them up from the inside of the door. I did however lose one which was found in the door releasing mechanism (the stuff in the door that moves when you pull the door handle) after it stopped working a week later.
Chris Pappathopoulos
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