Add Us To Your Favorites | E-mail Nathan

   Artificial Raising

   Artificial raising requires a little more work on your part than parent raising, but usually has a better hatch rate. With artificial raising, once your pair is done spawning, you will want to remove the eggs. Be aware the parents won't be happy about this and will bite. Don't worry they can't hurt you. You will want to put the  eggs (still on the slate) into a 2½ or 5 gallon tank. Don't leave the eggs out of the water for more than a few seconds. Take a quick look to admire them and add them to the hatch out tank. Some people suggest leaving them in water at all times but I've had no difference in hatch rates either way. 
   You need to use fresh de-chlorinated water in the tank so that you won't be introducing large amounts of bacteria to the eggs. You will want to add some anti-fungal like Methylene Blue.  There are other things on the market that some people use. I've tried them, and always come back to the Methylene Blue. Don't use AmQuel as a de-chlorinator as it effects dyes. Use something else like Stress Coat. You want to add just enough Methylene Blue to make the water a dark blue so that you can barely see into the tank. Be aware, this stuff stains everything including your hands, clothes, carpet, and the silicone in the tank so be careful when using it. You will want to add a heater as well and have the tank temperature match the parents tank at about 82º F.
   Next, put one of those cups Betta's come in upside down in the tank. Then gently add the slate to the tank setting the end of the slate with the eggs on it towards the cup, eggs facing up at you. Some people turn them facing down but I don't. Then, add an air stone to the tank with a steady trickle of air passing under the slate and around it so that a steady light flow of water is passing over the eggs. This will help with keeping the eggs clean and simulates the parents mouthing or fanning the eggs as I discussed earlier. Also, there is no need for a tank light. The light just promotes fungus growth although some people feel differently. 
  Below is several pictures of this set up. Keep in mind, I've removed some of the Methylene Blue so that you can see the set up. The eggs that are white are infertile (dead) and should be removed.

   After 48 hours the spawn will begin to hatch. If you look closely you will see little tails wiggling all over. At that point they are called "wigglers."  During this stage the fry have a spot on their head that is sticky and they will stick to just about anything. Some will begin to wiggle so hard they fall off the slate and onto the tank bottom. They're ok, don't worry. I usually shake the remain wigglers off the slate carefully and remove any infertile white eggs, then remove the slate and the cup. (See the picture below) It's at this time that you will want to start doing 50% water changes twice a day. Also be sure the tank bottom is clean and free of any sediment. You need to remove any Methylene Blue in the tank before the become free swimming. Five days after they begin wiggling they will become free swimming. It's at this point (free swimming) you will want to start feeding the fry. Not while they are wiggling. You will need to feed them Baby Brine Shrimp. It's best you start hatching Baby Brine Shrimp 24 hours before the wigglers become free swimming. I will explain how to do this later in this article. Also, you will want to add a well cycled, fine pore sponge filter to the tank when they become free swimming and you start feeding. It's also ok to use tank lights at this point as well.

   Free swimming fry

   Seven days from the time the eggs were laid, the fry will be free swimming. This is the time that you should start feeding them. You want to feed them live Baby Brine Shrimp (or "BBS" for short). If for some reason you do not have live BBS on hand, most quality local fish stores sell frozen BBS. This can be used in emergencies and should not be fed regularly. The nutritional value of live, freshly hatched BBS is much greater than frozen BBS. Other things are available such as "liquid fry" food but in my experience it just doesn't work as well as the live BBS and therefore I don't use it. Water changes should still be done (50% daily), or about 20 to 30 minutes after feeding to remove any uneaten food. BBS will quickly foul tank water if left in the tank.
   As the fry get older and begin to grow you will want to split them up and put them into different, larger tanks.  This will promote faster growth and keep the bio-load low in the tank. Here's a stocking rate guide to use as a guide provided by Johnny Johnson of The Angelfish Micro Hatchery.