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Lasting impression for any visitor to Vietnam is the beauty of the
women dressed in their ao dais. Girls dressed in white pick their way
through muddy streets going home from school or sail by in a graceful
chatter on their bikes. Secretaries in delicate pastels greet you at
an office door and older ladies in deep shades of purple, green or
blue cut a striking pose eating dinner at a restaurant. The ao dai
appears to flatter every figure. Its body-hugging top flows over wide
trousers that brush the floor. Splits in the gown extend well above
waist height and make it comfortable and easy to move in. Although
virtually the whole body is swathed in soft flowing fabric, these
splits give the odd glimpse of a bare midriff, making the outfit very
sensual. Rapidly becoming the national costume for ladies, its
development is actually very short compared to the country's history.
Pronounced
'ao yai' in the south, but 'ao zai' in the north, the color is
indicative of the wearer's age and status. Young girls wear pure
white, fully lined outfits symbolizing their purity. As they grow
older but are still unmarried they move into soft pastel shades. Only
married women wear gowns in strong, rich colors, usually over white or
black pants. The ao dai has always been more prevalent in the south
than the north, but austerity drives after 1975 meant it was rarely
anywhere seen for a number of years as it was considered an excess not
appropriate for hard work. The nineties have seen a resurgence in the
ao dai's popularity. "It has become standard attire for many
office workers and hotel staff as well as now being the preferred
dress for more formal occasions," says Huong, a secretary for a
foreign company. "I feel proud of my heritage when I wear
it." For visitors, the pink and blue of the Vietnam Airlines
uniform creates a lasting memory as they travel.
Early
versions of the ao dai date back to 1744 when Lord Vu Vuong of the
Nguyen Dynasty decreed both men and women should wear an ensemble of
trousers and a gown that buttoned down the front. It was not until
1930 that the ao dai as we know it really appeared. Vietnamese fashion
designer and writer Cat Tuong, or as the French knew him, Monsieur Le
Mur, lengthened the top so it reached the floor, fitted the bodice to
the curves of the body and moved the buttons from the front to an
opening along the shoulder and side seam. Men wore it less, generally
only on ceremonial occasions such as at weddings or funerals. But it
took another twenty years before the next major design change was
incorporated and the modern ao dai emerged. During the 1950s two
tailors in Saigon, Tran Kim of Thiet Lap Tailors and Dung of Dung
Tailors, started producing the gowns with raglan sleeves. This creates
a diagonal seam running from the collar to the underarm and today,
this style is still preferred.
Its
popularity is also spreading well beyond Vietnam's borders. For years
Vietnamese immigrants preferred to adopt Western dress and blend with
their new community but now the ao dai is seeing a revival amongst
overseas Vietnamese. At least here in the United States this may be
partly due to the arrival of Tram Kim, known as Mr. Ao Dai. He shifted
to California in 1982 and opened a new branch of Thiet Lap Tailors in
Garden Grove, Orange County, leaving his Saigon store to his son.
There are even annual Miss Ao Dai pageants held and the prestigious
Long Beach show attracts entrants from across the country. The
clothing has also inspired French designers including top names such
as Christian Lacroix and Claude Montana, and variations of the tight
sleeves, fitted bodice, high collar and flowing trousers have been
seen on the catwalks of Europe.
Every
ao dai is custom made, accounting for the fit that creates such a
flattering look. Stores specialize in their production and a team of
cutters, sewers and fitters ensure that the final product will
highlight the figure of the wearer. Thuy, a fitter in Ho Chi Minh
City, says, "To create the perfect fit, customers take their
undergarments and shoes with them for the fittings." The pants
should reach the soles of the feet and flow along the floor.
Comfort
has not been forgotten at the expense of fashion and beauty. The cut
allows the wearer freedom of movement and despite covering the whole
body, it is cool to wear. Synthetic fabrics are preferred as they do
not crush and are quick drying, making the ao dai a practical uniform
for daily wear.
Its
popularity may be its undoing as the garment is now being mass
produced to make it more available and cheaper. The gown length
appears to be gradually shortening and today is usually just below the
knee. Variations in the neck, between boat and mandarin style, are
common and even adventurous alterations such as a low scooped
neckline, puffed sleeves or off the shoulder designs are appearing as
ladies experiment with fashion. Colors are no longer as rigidly
controlled and access to new fabrics has created some dazzling
results. But most visitors to Vietnam agree that the tailors already
have the perfect cut. It is hard to think of a more elegant, demure
and yet sexy outfit, that suits Vietnamese women of all ages, than the
ao dai.
Vietnamese Ladies In Aodai
AO DAI
The National Costume
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