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Low Profile Amateur Radio | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
MOBILE OPERATION | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Operation Away From Home | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Camping with 30 meter Vertical in the air. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
(More coming soon..) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Sometimes the best way to avoid the "covenant cops" is to operate away from home. With a good antenna and radio installation you can "get out" quite well, almost on par with a "base" multi-band vertical. Besides its fun! |
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YAESU FT-100 & ATAS-100 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The newest rig out there for mobile all mode operation is the Yaesu FT-100. This HF, VHF, and UHF radio is very compact and includes DSP (digital signal processing).It has a removable face plate that is remotely mountable. One of the best features of this radio is the ATAS-100 "screwdriver" antenna, it covers all HF from 40 meters up to 10. Also covered is the 6 meter band and 2 meters and 70 centimeters. This antenna is controlled directly from the tune button on the radio. Here is some information on this unique antenna. |
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What's in there? How do I take it apart? No I don't work for Yaesu, but I can tell you what I have found out from my observations and from several sources. I am not an "expert", my intention is only to give helpful information. Disclaimer: The following procedures can possibly void your warranty. **************Use these procedures at your own risk.*************** Of course I am NOT responsible for any damage caused by disassembly, or any other general messing around with this antenna or your radio, enough said. WHAT'S IN THERE? (And a little on how it works) The stainless steel whip is mounted on top of a loading coil (under the rubber boot). The coil consists of copper wire wound around a "grooved" fiberglass rod. Part of the reason the antenna is guaranteed to work on 40,20,15 and 10m HF bands but not on 12,17 and 30m is that the spacing on the coil is wider at the resonant points on the coil on the "primary" bands allowing easier tuning. The loading coil slips into the "body" of the antenna where spring loaded contacts make the necessary connections. At the base of the coil and rod is a Teflon disk that makes sliding contact with the inside of the tube and is threaded for the brass "screw" rod that raises and lowers the coil. About 7" below the contacts is the motor and clutch assembly (at the middle rubber cover). Two wires run from the motor to the controller board that is mounted on top of the base unit. The base (matching unit) consists of a chromed top cap which includes the mount for the motor controller board. Below this is a 3" black plastic tube that forms an insulator. At the bottom is the threaded chromed base cap that is where the SO-239 connector screws in. This base assembly is secured with pins and would be hard to dissemble without damaging. Inside this is an RF choke coil (I'm not sure if it is air wound or on a torrid)that makes this whole antenna DC grounded. This protects the radio from damage from whip contact with power sources, static build up, etc. The coil also helps with matching the antenna and contributes to the high Q of the design. Connected to this is a capacitor that leads to the center pin on the SO-239 receptacle in the base. This capacitor is also part of the "broad band" matching network. HOW DO I TAKE IT APART? 1. Extend the antenna fully (40m). 2. Remove from vehicle and take it to a clean work surface. 3. Remove the whip for ease of handling. 4. Slide up the 2 rubber covers exposing the screws. 5. Remove the 3 lower screws above the base. 6. CAREFULLY remove the base by gently pulling down while using a slight rocking motion (the resistance is from a O ring). 7. Carefully withdraw the base assembly while noting the routing of the motor wires. 8. Unplug the micro connector from the motor controller board (the red and black wires that leads to the motor-clutch assembly), and set the base aside. 9. Mark on the shaft the location of the bottom of the boot, then slide the boot upwards exposing the loading coil. 10. Remove the remaining 6 screws on the antenna. 11. Carefully slide up the loading coil which also removes the motor-clutch assembly (be careful with the alignment pin). There is more than can be dissembled, but the above steps are all that is needed for most maintenance and repairs. While you're in there, clean the moving surfaces up and oil with a light oil (like mineral oil) that won't harm plastics while taking care not to contaminate the contacts, coils and connections. HOW DO I PUT IT TOGETHER? (Bonus section) 1. Basically reverse the above procedure. 2. Be careful to make sure the alignment pin (about 7" long) from the loading coil to the motor-clutch assembly is in place. 3. Pay special attention to the routing of the motor wires to prevent pinching between the motor controller board and motor-clutch assembly. 4. Enjoy! 73.. Cliff..N0HC |
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Disclaimer: All information & comments on these pages are my own and do not neccessarly reflect the opinions of Geocities and or my employer or its employees. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
© 2002 cholloway14@attbi.com | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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