unclechop
Registered Member
Posts: 23
(9/12/02 6:52:31 pm)
Cam Chain Tensioner Leak
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 Ive sprung a leak. I just noticed it yesterday, its coming from what looks like the cam chain tensioner (according to my manual). Can't really tell if its oil or what, but its pissing me rite off. Anyone know anything about it? Costs, how to fix, etc?

Thanks for your help

First thing I'd check is that is simply has not worked its way loose, only 2 bolts hold it on. Later when I get my photos developed I'll post a more detailed explanation of this, but for now.
1: Fold back Helmet locker (I'm presuming you know how to do this)
2: Remove the air filter from the air box.
3: Remove the 2 drain hoses and the fuel line that cross over the top of the air box. Make sure you plug the fuel line with something (a large phillips head screwdriver did the trick for me)
4: remove the retaining bolts that hold the airbox to the frame and remove the drain plug from the hose next to the righ hand foot peg. But make sure you put a container under it first, this hose drains the built up oil from the air box.
5: pull the back of the airbox up so that it pops out as a single unit, dont worry about the connection to the carbs, its rubber and will handle it. And remove the hose connected at the base of the Airbox.
6: You can now see the cam chain tensioner sitting below the carbies smack centre on the block. If its just loose do not remove it, but tighten up the 2 bolts holding it. Wipe away excess oil, re fit trunk into possition and take the bike for a spin around the block. A short ride is ok in my experience with motors to test for leaks, but no more than 2-3km for this, and avoid dirt roads at all costs. On your return check for oil leaks, if no leak re assemble as per instructions below.
7: If the tensioner is tightly attatched to the block, look to see where the oil is comming from, it will be either the gasket sandwiched between it and the block, or the small hole in the back of the tensioner. (Used for fitting the tensioner).
8: Either way you are at least going to need a new gasket from Suzuki. But it the oil is comming from the small hole in the back of the tensioner you will need a new tensioner too as it has blown its internal seals. Tensioners are not servicable
Note: If you need to replace the tensioner expect it to take a few days to arrive, I did not find a dealer in Syd who had one in stock.

*****Removing Tensioner*****
This is VERY important, get a small flat head screw driver, and after you have loosened off the tensioner retaining bolts (2 of them) insert the screwdriver into the hole in the back of the tensioner (some tensioners have a rubber cap covering the hole, remove the cap and put to one side somewhere safe, you will need it again) and wind the tensioner pressure back. The screwdriver will only turn in one direction, from memory that is anti-clockwise or a right hand thread. Once wound back, hold the pressure onto the screwdriver and use your other hand to remove the retaining bolts, then remove tensioner with screwdriver in place.

If you fail to do this and the internal retaining clip on the tensioning spring has broken you can inadvertently send small pieces of metal into the motor when you pull the tensioner away from the block, ouch.

If the gasket did not come away with the tensioner it should now be removed.

Clean up the contact area and do not be tempted to stick any object into the hole the tensioner came out of, the cam chain slider sits just behind this hole and could be damaged if you do. Damaged slider = full re build because of the block desighn in order to get at the bastard.

*****Replacing Tensioner******

If you are fitting a new tensioner, DO NOT remove the small piece of metal in the hole in the back of it, trust me it will make this job much easier. If you are re fitting the old tensioner, wind the screw in the back as far back as you can (the rod at the other end will retract as you do this but you have to push on the rod at the same time as well, then LEAVE the screwdriver in place, so make sure you use the smallest driver you can).

Smear some new oil onto the facing side of the tensioner then slide the new gasket on to the tensioner, and add a smear of oil to the clean face of the gasket as well.

If your fitting a new tensioner this is dead easy, just slide the new tensioner into place and fit the retaining bolts sufficiently that the tensioner can't wobble, then remove the small metal piece from the rear, you will hear it click (loudly) as it takes up the slack, then replace the original rubber cap if you have it. Tighten bolts and start to re assemble the rest of the bike.

Re fitting the old tensioner however is a bit of a bitch to do. Not only do you have to put the tensioner into its hole, and fit the retaining bolts, all the time while doing this you have to keep pressure on the small screwdriver atatched to the screw in the back of the tensioner to prevent it from extending, you can NOT let the pressure off until the retaining bolts have the tensioner flush up against the block and tight enough that the tensioner can not wobble. Now remove the screwdriver and properly tighten retaining bolts & replace the rubber cap if you have it.

You can now refit the air box(dont forget the drain tube and its plug next to your right foot peg), filter, breather tubes and fuel line. Just a note with the air box, it is much easier to re fit if you back the retaining clips off a bit on the rubber connectors for the carbie air intakes, then slip your hand into the air box and use your fingers to stretch the rubber collars over the carbie necks from within, hence why I said to remove the air filter earlier.

All up this job took me about 2 hours once I had all the parts. The new tensioner was about $45.00, and the gasket about $8.00. And do not remove the tensioner if you dont have a new gasket to go on.

Greg

The above information is offered purely from my own experiences with this bike, I am not a mechanic of any sort and offer no guarantees to the results obtained, and accept no liability for any loses or injuries sustained whilst performing, or as a result of performing this operation.

Edited by: Greg Across 96   at: 9/13/02 1:38:37 am

Tensioner Hole
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 Att Greg:
This is probably a ridiculous question, but you said that there is a hole at the "back" of the cam chain tensioner that oil can come out. Could this be right in the middle of what i can see as the "Front" of the tensioner, and covered by a small black rubber cover? I dont wunna go ripping off the cover when it is something important.
Cheers Mate

Greg Across 96
Regular Poster
Posts: 233
(9/15/02 9:52:26 pm)
Reply
  Re: Tensioner Hole
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 Well yeah that rubber cover is actually a plug, you remove it to get access to the screw retainer insode the tensioner, as I explained in the previous posts(don't loose it, it has to go back in later on). I probably should have pointed out that anyting I call the "Back of" or "Front of" usualy refers to how it is possitioned when installed on the bike with reference to its backward or forward orientation on the bike.

i.e, the cam chain tensioner is accesible from the trailing side of the motor, as is the rubber plug so its on the back of the tensioner.

Sory if I confused anyone.

Greg.

Edited by: Greg Across 96 at: 9/15/02 10:14:01 pm