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Q:How can I know if the Labrador Retriever is the right breed for me?
A: You'll need to answer a series of questions to determine which breed of dog is right for you. Everyone in the family should be involved in the Question and Answer process. Some of the questions should consider: Size of dog you want, size of your house and yard, how much time do you have to exercise the dog, where will the dog live, how much time do you have for grooming the dog each week, what your lifestyle is (busy? couch potato?) and what is your experience with dogs?
To get started I'd like to recommend a great On-Line Breed Choosing Tool put up by Purina. Just answer the series of questions they ask and they'll give you a full list of breeds to consider plus it gives you information on each breed on your list. That information includes: Breed Background, General Information (like monthly food costs and living space needed for that breed), life expectancy, characteristics, and a lot more! This site also allows for side by side comparison of various breeds..in case you can't quite decide! Well worth using and very educational!
Q: The vet says my new puppy has roundworms. How
did he get them and how serious are they?
A: Roundworms are extremely common and just about every puppy is born
with them. The spaghetti like adult worms can turn into a real problem if
left untreated, especially in young pups. Puppies can become infected in a
number of ways. Prior to birth the larval worms can travel through the bloodstream
from the mother to her pups. Another way is through ingesting worm eggs that
have passed in the stools of other infected dogs. Roundworm infection is easily
diagnosed through a stool sample and can be cleared up quite easily. It's
a standard practice to treat pups automatically at 3 weeks of age with a roundworm
medication and at their 6 week checkup your vet will run a stool sample test
to make sure there is no further need for treatment.
Q: What can you tell me about housebreaking my new puppy or dog?
A:
A LOT! This is probably the most asked question in the history of puppy raising
and owning! There are two methods though I admit I have never tried the first.
"Paper-training", frequently used for smaller breeds, in city- like
settings can be very useful. If you reside in an apartment and have a smaller
breed dog then it's acceptable as a way to provide your pet with a designated
place to "Go". However it's totally impractical for larger breeds in my opinion.
You'd have to have a REALLY large area! Paper training is also recommended
as a way to eventually wean the dog from paper to outside though I find this
theory confusing. In talking with other breeders, vets and trainers, the consensus
is this gives out a mixed message. The theory is that you confine your pup
to a small area covered with newspapers, and over time as the puppy gets the
idea that the papers are meant for soiling on you reduce the space covered
with papers. Eventually you are left with one small space, which can then
be eliminated completely. During this "paper chase" you are also instructing
the puppy" that outside is really the place to "Go"! Personally I feel like
if you're teaching them to "Go" outside then why also teach them to "Go" inside?
I also have to wonder if your un-read Sunday paper will now be at risk through
out the life of your dog?!
"Crate Training" is the most preferred method and the most practical.
It's more efficient, easier for the pup to relate to, and besides you'll need
a crate for your pup anyway! A crate, also called a "Pet Carrier" "Airline
Carrier" and "Den" provides your new pup with a safe, secure haven. A place
all his or her own where they can rest, sleep and enjoy a good bone. It provides
you with a way to control and protect your new puppy, transport them safely
on trips, and contain when needed. It also gives you a way to housebreak.
Most pups will resist soiling their "den". They learn this from Mom who works
feverishly the first few weeks keeping them all clean in the whelping box.
As they get older and mobile she encourages them to "Go" away from the area
where they sleep and rest (outside it would be the doghouse) That's not to
say they don't "Go" near their dog-house however she looks down upon it. When
you bring your new puppy home and introduce them to their "crate" this becomes
their "den". Their home inside a home. By using the "crate" to confine the
pup when it can not be supervised or taken out as the need arises, the pups
will try to control their urge to "Go" while in the crate.
Keep in mind several things however while housebreaking:
1.
Puppy's bladders don't expand until about 20 weeks of age. This means they
must be kept on a schedule for trips outside!
2. Puppies need to "Go" frequently! Ø Immediately after waking up Ø Very shortly
after meals Ø After an energetic playtime Ø And/Or every one to two hours
3. Puppies don't make messes on purpose!
4. Bribes work wonders! We are not above rewarding puppies with small treats
after a successful trip outside. It lets them know "they 're a GOOD DOG!"
5. You should try to be very consistent. Not only with when you take them
out but also where you take them and what you say to prompt them to "Go".
We us the phrase "Hurry Up!". It sounds so much better than "Do your wee-wee"!
Besides what if you're on a trip and there are strangers around…which would
you rather be saying in public?
6. Once the puppy has successfully eliminated, praise them and bring them
back in immediately! This lets them know WHAT they were out there for and
that they did GOOD and now they get a TREAT!
And so ends Puppy Psychology 101! The keyword is Patience! They WILL learn but they WILL have accidents along the way. Just like toilet training a baby it takes time!
Q: My puppy is into EVERYTHING! HELP!
A:
Yup! It's what puppies do best! They're exploring and learning. Again
just like a toddler with his feet under him. In fact raising a puppy is much
the same psychology as raising a toddler! You must first look through a puppies
eyes and then "Puppy Proof" your house! First: Get down on the floor and look
around. What do you see? Things near the floor at mouth level for your new
puppy? Interesting things to chew and pull and trip on? Start with dangerous
things like electrical cords and sharp objects. Plastic bags, cleaning supplies
that are deadly! Medications in a cabinet that isn't closed can be deadly
as well. Breakables, paper, children's toys and of course - Your favorite
shoes. Keep in mind anything at their level or on the floor is fair game until
they learn the difference between YOURS and MINE! First make the house safe
by moving and covering all the harmful things they have access to. Make sure
you're puppy has lots of his own stuff to chew on and until he's outgrown
that "Curiosity" stage he should always be supervised or contained in a SAFE
area!
Now make sure they can't get into any poisons, cleaners, medications and if
you're using your garage as a spot for your pup or the puppy has access to
it GO- RIGHT NOW and do the same thing there! Move the Insecticides, plant
food, and the worst of all ANTIFREEZE! It tastes sweet to animals and KILLS
them!
Plants can be another hazard.
The list of poisonous houseplants includes:
Dieffenbachia
Philodendron
Azalea
English Ivy
Caladium's
If you even suspect your dog has gotten into something or been poisoned call
your vet or emergency clinic immediately!
Also add this number to your emergency numbers: The National Animal Poison
Center 1-900-680-0000
To visit their website: National Animal
Poison Control Center
Q: Should I call my vet before or after bringing home my new puppy?
A: If you don't have a vet yet you should definitely start looking for one before bringing home your new pup. Ask the people you know with dogs. Friends, family, coworkers and neighbors can make excellent references. Find out what they like about their vet and how long they've been using them for pet care. If you don't know anyone to ask then start with the phone book and be sure to ask what services they provide such as surgical, dental care and emergency care. If you visit a new vet and for any reason feel uncomfortable or feel they are not for you then by all means...find a new one. The relationship could last for years and like your own Doctor, you should have someone who you feel good about taking your puppy to!
If
you already have a vet then call prior to bringing the pup home to let them
know you have a new puppy on the way! At that time you can ask to find out
how far in advance you'll need to book the puppies first appointment so that
you can be sure it get's it's shots on schedule. Also ask if they will do
a New Puppy Wellness Checkup right after you get your puppy from the breeder!
This is usually a short visit to insure the puppy you have received is in
fact healthy and many vets will do it free of charge.
Q: We're thinking about getting a puppy for our family but I want to make sure my children understand what it means to be responsible pet owners. What can you recommend?
B Kids are never too young to learn how to care for their pets. There are a couple of videos they can watch. The AKC puts out both. Check your local video store or see if you can order them. Also ask at your child's school and your local library. They might have them. Ø "Best Friends" Ø "Taking Care of Corey" Both will help your child understand the importance of proper care and good ownership. You might also find a copy of "The Complete Dog Book for Kids", best suited for kids 8-12 yr. Of age. It's got information on each AKC breed and lots of great pictures! It also covers grooming, feeding training and some of the fun events and activities they can participate in with their dog! If you'd like to order a copy: "The Complete Dog Book for Kids"
You should also read through our article on Kid and Dogs while discussing adding a dog to the family. The helpful guidelines will help to make sure they understand how to handle a dog whether it be yours or a strange dog in the neighborhood.
1.
FOOD AND WATER BOWL
2. A CRATE.
3. A BLANKET OR PAD FOR THE CRATE
4. ADJUSTABLE COLLAR AND LIGHT LEAD . SNAP COLLARS ARE THE EASIEST TO GET
ON AND OFF. THE EARLIER YOU START LEASH TRAINING THE BETTER.
5.
ASSORTMENT OF TOYS TO PROTECT YOUR PERSONAL ITEMS! SINCE PUPPIES TEETH A GREAT
DEAL - PROVIDE THEM WITH BOTH SOFT AND HARD TOYS.
CHEWMEN ARE EXCELLENT- DOGS LOVE THEM.
WE RECOMMEND NYLABONES AS THEY ARE SAFER, AND LAST LONGER. BECAUSE THEY DO
NOT BREAK OFF THE PUP IS IN NO DANGER OF CHOKING . RAWHIDE TOYS SHOULD BE
SUPERVISED. DOGS TEND TO SWALLOW LARGER CHUNKS THAN THEY SHOULD. I HAVE FOUND
IT BETTER TO JUST AVOID THEM IF I'M NOT GOING TO BE PRESENT.
YOUR PUPPY LOVES TO RETRIEVE! TENNIS BALLS ARE GREAT AND MUCH SAFER THAN STICKS
WHICH CAN BE SWALLOWED OR TRIPPED ON AND CAUSE PUNCTURES.
ROPE TUGS ARE ANOTHER GOOD CHOICE.
Q: How should we plan for our puppies first day in it's new home?
A: Keep in mind there will be a lot for your new puppy to adjust to! Leaving it's mother, it's siblings, and it's familiar people and surroundings. Your puppy should be no younger than 7-8 weeks old!!!! Some breeder's will sell their pups as young as 5 or 6 weeks old! Beware! The last couple weeks are very important to a puppies socialization period with it's siblings. They learn many valuable lessons about getting along with other dogs during this time and develop personality traits that can determine how well they interact later in life. At 7-8 weeks they should have received their first set of shots from the breeder and a thorough check up from their vet before sending them off.
Plan on that first day being a quiet one for your family and the puppy. Allow them the chance to become used to you first, as well as it's new home, it's crate, toys and the schedule you will start to set up. Have your house puppy proofed and a safe puppy place ready. Have all your puppy items purchased and don't forget the food!!! Spend the first day playing quietly with your puppy and don't forget they are babies and will want to sleep a lot! Try not to interfere with their natural schedule of eating and sleeping and start the housebreaking process from Day 1! After the puppy has become accustomed to your family and home, then you can begin to introduce him to the neighbors, friends etc. In other words...keep the new experiences to a minimum on the first day or so.
I'd like to add to this: Christmas is a horrible time to bring a new puppy into the home. Any reputable breeder will refuse to do this.Not only is their usually a lot more activity in most homes ( friends and family in an out etc.) but you have added dangers of Christmas trees and lights, packages on the floor, and family members who are preoccupied with visits and new gifts. It's unfair to bring a pup into the house during this period. If a puppy is given as a Christmas present it is usually better to give puppy related items on Christmas morning like toys, a book on the breed and a picture of the pup. After the holiday chaos is over then your family can visit the breeder to pick up or pick out their new family member. The same rules apply to birthdays !
Q: How will I know when my pup needs to visit the vet and get it's shots?
A: First be sure you get a complete record from your breeder about the schedule of your new puppies shots, wormings and any other medical info pertinent to your puppy. Then call your vet with this information and they can advise you as to when the puppy needs to come in. Shots are given on a schedule, several weeks apart and to work effectively you must stay on that schedule or your puppy may not be properly protected against certain illnesses that can be prevented. The same holds true for Heartworm treatment, wormings and Annual shots once your puppy becomes an adult. Follow your vet's instructions when it comes to this and never give anything off the shelf without first consulting the puppies Dr.!!! Follow Dr.'s orders!
Q:
My breeder gave me a feeding schedule....do I really need to use it or can
I just make my own?
A: Like babies, puppies need a schedule and routine. Your breeder's schedule is what the puppy is used to and very important as far as how often and how much your puppy should be fed. As it gets a little older the number of feedings will go down. The most important thing is to make sure your puppy is receiving the amount of food it needs each day, equally divided between meals and at equal intervals. As your puppy adjusts and grows you can adjust the schedule to meet your meal schedules. Any kind of change, schedule or food should be done gradually and over a period of at least a week or so.
Q: My breeder said we need to "socialize" our puppy once the vet says it's ok...what does that mean and what's the best way to do that?
A:
Q: How is the best way to go about teaching my dog the basics when it comes to training?
Q: Why is Annual Healthcare for my dog so important?
A:
Q: Why should I worry about spaying or neutering my dog?
A: Aside from not contributing to the overwhelming pet population there are plenty of good reasons that can affect your dog's health.
Spaying your female means:
No Unwanted puppies or Pregnancy Complications! By Spaying (the surgical removal
of the animal's ovaries and uterus)
Spaying permanently eliminates a source of physical stress for females , including
complications such a caesarian section delivery.
What's more, spaying female pets eliminates: Males in abundance while the female is in heat Spotting during the heat period which can be messy, False pregnancies (increasingly common with age) Mammary tumors (less than 1% incidence in animals spayed before their first heat, versus higher than 50% incidence in intact female dogs over 5 years of age) Uterine infections (increasingly common with age; often life-threatening) Tumors of the ovaries or uterus Stress, leading to increased susceptibility to disease. Need for extra food during pregnancy and nursing In female dogs, heat periods occur twice a year and last about 3 weeks each time. During heat dogs will be more irritable and nervous than usual, and may even become aggressive and damage furniture or attack strangers.
Neutering your Male Dog means less Trouble!
In terms of behavior, male dogs benefit even more than females from being
neutered. Neutering, or castration, is the surgical removal of the animal's
testicles.
An unneutered male can detect a female in heat even miles away. Neutering
decreases roaming by 90%. Responding to the overwhelming urge to reproduce,
he will often become nervous and irritable, perhaps picking fights with other
dogs, or become lethargic, less responsive to his owner, stop eating, or act
ill or depressed. Among the problems reduced or eliminated by neutering male
pets are: Territoriality and aggression, including urinating to mark territory,
and fighting to defend it Wandering, escaping, and automobile injuries "Riding"
inappropriate objects Prostate enlargement (occurs in at least 60% of unneutered
male dogs 5 years or older) Prostate tumors and infections Tumors of the testicles,
penis, anal area Perineal hernia (rupture of the posterior abdominal wall)
Stress, leading to increased susceptibility to disease.
Talk with your vet about having your pet spayed or neutered!