Planning

 

 
  Oh, what a lot of planning to do .....

 
  "There is much to be said for thorough planning, but sometimes its necessary to take a plunge and get started too."

Research

I started by reading anything I could find on the Internet or bookshops or Libraries (Great source of good cheap info!) and reading the huge volumes of info on the Locost maillist archives and SE7en maillists. It's incredible just how much information is available when you start looking. After a while I started to realise some of the problems I would be likely to face and therefore some of the decisions I needed to make up front. I knew I would be using the standard front suspension setup, so the first purchase was a pair of Cortina TC front hubs, calipers etc. from the local wrecker, easy!
Next, I joined the local Westfield Owners club to meet some people who had "been there and done that" and to make some new friends! As it happened, I met up with another keen builder (we'll call him Peter) and we've decided to join forces (and tools and experience and moral support) to build two chassis together.

In Australia, one of the main hurdles is the engineering and registration problems. Since the chassis has to be tested for beaming and torsional loads and everything has to comply with fairly strict Australian Design Rules via a certified engineer you need to know what your intentions are before you start. So, now I have a document detailing all my thoughts on the design and construction with reference to each ADR rule that applies. (Thanks to Darren for his ADR Compliance document example)This document also lists all the cars' specs, stages of build, budget to each stage, component sources etc. Its interesting that writing everything down somehow made it more real and possible, and cemented a lot of ideas that had otherwise been floating around my head. (there's lots of free space in there!) Phil Bradshaw (see links page) also has a good paper on his planning thoughts which I found very useful.

Chassis

I knew I wanted to use the car for regular road use, that I therefore didn't need an absolute rocket and was happy to add a few kilos in the interest of safety and chassis rigidity. I also saw that a lot of people were making fairly similar mods to the original chassis to make it wider, taller at the rear, and reinforced around the engine bay.

So with a lot of reading and thinking going on I decided on the following chassis mods:

* The chassis is based on the Ron Champion ‘Locost’ design with a number of changes designed to add strength and improve proportions.
* Widening of the complete chassis by 100mm
* Triangulation of the front face of the chassis
* Additional bracing of the engine bay to both top and bottom plans
* An additional crossbrace at the top, front of the engine bay between the rear mounts of the top wishbones
* Additional diagonal bracing from the engine mount area up to the top, rear wishbone mounts
* Increased bracing of the rear section to accommodate the future capacity to tow a small trailer of <250kg.
* Steel floor, firewall, transmission tunnel sides and outer body sides for improved strength and safety.
* Raising the rear suspension/ rollbar mount by 50 mm and therefore angling the top of the rear section rearwards and down by 50mm.
* Lowering the rear point of the ‘horizontal’ section which makes up the ‘doorway’ by 50mm
* Moving the vertical section to which the rear trailing arms attach, forward by approximately 25mm.
* Continuing the bottom outer chassis rail rearwards and horizontal until behind the rear drivetrain

Next came the Turbo CAD package downloaded from the Internet. This is a fantastic tool at an unbeatable price! After many long hours I had drawn up the standard Locost chassis and progressively added my mods to provide something which could be shown to an engineer for his nod of approval (hopefully !) It also allowed me to better understand the chassis design and the likely construction issues I would face. Much simpler to mess up a line on a drawing than the same in metal !

The whole CAD drawing stage has forced me to consider a range of issues I thought would be much further along the build process, such as suspension construction, seat sizes, rollbar design, engine/gearbox choices, and especially rear suspension design.

Rear Suspension

There's bound to be a lot more on this later but basically I had developed a design problem (and I hadn't even started!). I really wanted to have the wider chassis ( to give more room for me and engines/gearboxes etc.) but this meant that I couldn't use the standard rear axle. The only wider Ford live axle was the Cortina lump, but I Australia this is a Borg Warner part that weighs four times the Escort axle. This would have to have a significantly detrimental effect on the handling of a car this weight, especially on Australian roads. I looked at a huge number of Japanese axles (many weekends spent crawling under cars measuring rear axles at your friendly wreckers!) and found a few that would do but this then added the problem of different PCDs between front and back axles. Also, I didn't really want to use drums on the back so the only real option became a Mitsubitsi Scorpion live rear axle which was still going to be a bit tight in the wider chassis. All this time the IRS bug was chewing at my ear, so I also looked into that.

A full unequal length wishbone rear was well beyond my design skills, but at some stage I got the idea to do a DeDion rear. Again after much crawling under wrecked cars with a tape measure I finally found a donor I thought I could modify into a DD rear setup. So, with a brave heart I bought the rear end and , driving home I must say that I was thrilled to have finally made my first major decision about the car design and had something to start working on. The donor was a 1982 Nissan Skyline Hatch with an IRS using semi-trailing arms. I figured that I could chop the semi-training arms off the wheel hubs and weld on a bracket for the DD axle to attach to. After that it is simply a matter of using the four trailing arms and panhard rod design from "The Book", with a few minor adjustments. I'm yet to see if its that simple ! At this stage (October) after lots of measuring and drawing these ideas down in TurboCAD, I'm yet to visit my intended engineer for his design approval before I start cutting and welding.

Engine\ Gearbox

The next major choice was the engine and gearbox selection......
A lot of people are using the Toyota 1600 Twin Cams which is a good option. These engine are small enough, light enough and powerful enough and would be fine for my Clubman too. However, I wanted to make sure that there weren't any options I wasn't considering, so I went off looking at other engine packages.

The Nissan SR20 and CA18 engines are suitable but I personally found it quite difficult to get detailed info off the Internet regarding these engines, especially the non turbo varieties. They have the advantage of already being RWD and mated to a 5 speed gearbox, but they are larger and heavier and produce less power per cc.

The Mazda 1600 and 1800 engines are also suitable but due to their reasonably low power output (compared to the Toyota 1600) and higher cost I haven't really researched these much further. They also have the advantage of being RWD and matched to a very nice 5 speed gearbox. This setup would probably be my second choice.

So, given approval from my engineer, I intend to get myself a Toyota 1600 20V front cut to ensure that I get all the ancillaries and the option of using the steering column, pedals, master cyl, etc....

So, now I know what I want to do, it's on to the chassis construction.....

 
     
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