Feature

Trang - the Sleeping Beauty

It is not on the average tourist's intinerary. But for those who reach there, Trang is an unforgettable experience.

TRANG could almost be called the forgotten province, for when heading south most tourists either head for Koh Samui in the Gulf of Thailand, or choose Koh Phi Phi, Krabi, Phuket or Phang Nga on the west coast.

As a result, Trang has laid dormant. But what a sleeping beauty.

For this province offers an abundance of natural attractions both on land and sea and it's the perfect place for those who love tranquillity and want to escape the crowds.

My friends and I arrived in the Muang district of Trang by air-conditioned bus early on a Friday morning. The sun was low and the streets were quiet. Monks walked in file on their morning alms rounds. Women waited on the footpath to offer gifts of rice, curries, and sweetmeats, while children were laughing as they walked to school. A scene of perfect harmony.

Before setting off to explore, we trooped into a local coffee shop to taste the exquisite pa thongko (Chinese donuts) and a variety of dim sum. No visitor to Trang can leave without sampling these wonderful stuffed buns, or the local roast pork. Delicious.

Trang is hilly. One of my friends compared it to San Francisco -- but with a very different vibe. The locals call these small hills khuan, and practically every road in the region starts with the word. The Governor's house is also built on a khuan, and the residents claim that because the governor gets a good view of what's going on, he can take better care of the community. Makes perfect sense.

From the Muang district, a van provided by the Tourist Authority of Thailand (TAT), took us 40 kilometres along the Trang-Sikao Road to a beach called Pak Meng. It was practically deserted, although on the weekends visitors can be seen lolling on deck-chairs and taking in the sea air and serenity. Groups of small islands dot the horizon such as Koh Hai, Koh Mook, Koh Kradan and Koh Libong.

So we boarded a fast launch crewed by the Marine Police and arrived at Koh Mook (Pearl Island) in about 20 minutes. It's a big island dominated by high cliffs, especially on the western side which faces the open sea. Underneath one of these towering rock faces is the beautiful Tham Morakot, or Morakot cave, whose narrow entrance is only navigable at low tide.

At the cave's entrance, we donned life jackets and jumped into the emerald-coloured water. We were told by a crew member to hold hands as he led us into the 80m long cave -- as he didn't want anyone to be swept away by the current.

It's gloomy as we enter this watery passage and gets progressively darker. We can just make out a pin point of light which slowly becomes brighter as we inch towards it, and then suddenly, we are out of the cave and on a crystal white beach which is open to the sky. Palm trees cling to the cliff walls. It feels like a slice of paradise hidden deep within the cliffs. A marine Eden.

However, it's not long before our guide brings us out of our reverie when he tells us we must leave as the tide is rising. Indeed, this taste of heaven could quickly turn to a personal hell if you get trapped by the force of nature that created it.

Safely back on the launch we head off and soon find ourselves on Koh Kradan, which is a famous for the coral reefs that ring the island. It has a pristine white beach and you can wander for hours in the shallow waters gazing at the coral below, while fish of all sizes dart and cruise around your legs. Picture perfect, Koh Kradan puts your faith back in all those postcards of the classic island utopia.

After spending a night at the Koh Kradan Resort, we once again take the launch and within minutes arrive at Koh Libong, which is the largest island in the Kantang district. We wanted to observe life in the three fishing villages and watch the sea birds that have migrated from Siberia.

Unfortunately, due to the low tide and some dangerous reefs the Marine Police were unable to reach the pier and we couldn't attract anyone onshore to bring us a long-tailed boat.

We thought, well, they must have gone fishing. So it was bye-bye Libong.

We return to the coast, landing at Haad Yao (Yao Beach). Yao means long, and a beautiful beach stretched some 5 kilometres before us. We walked and reached a small settlement called Chao Mai, where women and children were busy cleaning crabs. Not surprisingly, the primary income for the community is fresh seafood and a villager informed us that her family income is about Bt200 a day. However, during the peak season from November to February, tourists will hire their fishing boats to visit the islands, and so their income can often reach Bt1,500.

From Chao Mai village, we hired a long-tailed boat and headed inland along the Chao Mai canal to visit a cave of the same name. The cave is well-known for its beautiful stalactites and stalagmites, but once again, the tide was high so we couldn't get through the passage into the cave. Another spot recommended by a local is Chao Khun Cave, which is almost unknown to tourists and about 15 minutes by boat from Chao Mai.

From Haad Yao, we drove to Kantang, crossing the Trang river by phae khanan yon (an iron raft for carrying heavy vehicles). Kantang is an important and bustling fishing port and the site of old Trang, before the regional capital moved to Tab Tieng district.

Finally, we headed back to Trang along a beautiful 24-km stretch of road with deep green rice paddies on either sideof the road road set against the blue sky.

A far cry from the bustle and smoke of Bangkok, Trang really is a hidden treasure of surprise, delight and diversity.

How to get there: Trang is easy to reach by bus, train or plane. The Transportation Co provides both non and air-conditioned buses that run daily. The 24-seated VIP and ordinary air-conditioned buses leave the Southern Bus Terminal at 7 pm and at 7.50 pm respectively. Call 435 1199 for further information. Both rapid and express trains leave Hua Lumphong daily at 6.40 pm and 5.30 pm. For more details call 223 0341. Thai International offers a daily flight from Bangkok to Trang at 6.20 am. There is an addittional flight on Friday and Sunday at 4.45 pm. Reservations can be made by calling 628 2000.

BY KHETSIRIN KNITHICHAN

The Nation