We arrived at Kruger National Park at about 4 pm and had two hours to travel 60 km to Lower Sabie Camp before its gates closed for the night. This proved difficult since we immediately encountered many exciting animals. Within a few kilometres of Crocodile Bridge, our entry point to the park, we found large herds of Impala as well as lesser numbers of Burchell's Zebras, Giraffes, Elephants, and Blue Wildebeest. We also saw an adult Martial Eagle, numerous Bateleur Eagles, Marabou Stork, three species of Hornbills, European Bee-eater, European and Lilacbreasted Rollers and many others. Two snakes were sighted on the road including what we believe to be a Common Night-Adder (Causes rhombeatus) and a Boomslang (Dispholidus typus) near Crocodile Bridge.

6 March - At sunrise, we walked to the back of the camp where we could watch a stretch of the Sabie River. A troop of Chacma Baboons squabbled in the trees across the river, and we saw a few hippopotamus and crocodiles in the water. A female Thickbilled Weaver was sighted just beyond the fenceline and a Little Bittern was seen in flight and then perched in cattails along the shoreline of the river. We watched a tame Natal Francolin as it walked on the lawn within the camp.

As it became lighter, we began birding within the camp which proved to be excellent due to the many large trees. Some of the figtrees were fruiting and these received a steady stream of visitors, such as flocks of the Grey Louries, Plumcoloured Starlings, African Green Pigeons, African Blackheaded Orioles, and Grey Hornbills. In other large trees within the camp, we found a Gabar Goshawk, Brownhooded Kingfisher, Yellowbreasted Apalis, Melba Finch, Blue Waxbills and Marico Sunbirds. On the ground around our campervan were Burchell's and Cape Glossy Starlings, Arrowmarked Babblers and African Pied Wagtails. Lesser Striped and Wiretailed Swallows perched on powerlines leading to the office.

After birding for an hour or so within the camp, we drove to the nearby Sunset Dam. The water was covered with hyacinth and on these we found African Jacanas. Other interesting birds included a pair of Saddlebilled Storks, African Fish Eagles, nesting Redbilled Buffalo Weavers, African Cuckoo, Woodland Kingfishers and Whitefronted BeeEaters. What appeared to be a patch of mud protruding from the water suddenly grew in size as a Hippopotamus surfaced for air. Also at the dam were Waterbucks and a large Water Monitor.

We next followed a dirt track along the eastern boundary of the park back to the Crocodile Bridge Camp. The habitat along the way was dry, open savannah. Raptors were numerous including Wahlberg's Eagle, Bateleur Eagles, Lesser Spotted Eagles, Dark Chanting Goshawk, Hooded Vultures, Whitebacked Vultures, and Whiteheaded Vultures. Also seen were Ostrich, Kori Bustards, European Rollers and many of the stunning Carmine BeeEaters. One of the highlights of this drive was the sighting of a White Rhinocerus which was grazing along with a few Zebra.

At Crocodile Bridge, we were able to get out of the car once again and walk around the well shaded camp. As with many camps in Kruger, Crocodile Bridge was shaded by large trees and situated on the banks of a river. In one of the fruiting trees, we saw a flash of colour which proved to be a Purplecrested Lourie. We also saw a male European Oriole and a Striped Cuckoo in the same area. During this hot afternoon, a number of birds were attracted to a sprinkler on a lawn near the front gate, including Whitebrowed Scrubrobins, Sombre Bulbuls, Black Flycatchers, African Paradise Flycatchers and a pair of Chinspot Batis. We found another of the beautiful sunbirds, Whitebellied, in a flowering tree. Soon after departing the camp, we saw a Steenbok, one of the diminutive species of antelope.

We drove on to Skukuza Camp where we spent the night. Skukuza is the administrative headquarters of Kruger National Park and is also the largest camp. About an hour before dark, we left on one of the organised night drives. Large, semi-enclosed trucks are used for the drives which are accompanied by an armed ranger and driver . The drive proved to be excellent for both birds and mammals. At dusk, we saw a magnificent Greater Kudu bull with long, twisted horns. We also found a pair of Crested Francolins which were walking along the road and a Brown Snake Eagle which was perched on a roadside tree. After sunset, we saw many nightjars but we were only able to identify an European which was briefly captured by the ranger. Also seen was a Giant Eagle Owl, Spotted Eagle Owl, Bronzewinged Courser, Spotted Dikkops and Water Dikkops. On a granite outcrop, we saw several of the rock-dwelling Klipspringers (antelope). Other mammals on the drive included a litter of Spotted Hyaenas which lived in a drainage culvert, Large-spotted Genets, Bushbabies, Scrub Hare, and the ubiquitous Impala.

7 March - We again birded in the campground for the first few hours of the morning. The tree above our campervan proved to be a roosting site for Steelblue Widowfinches and Pintailed Whydahs. In the trees near the headquarters, we found three members of the African bush-shrike family including Brubru, Puffbacked Shrike, and Southern Boubou. We followed a loud song into a thicket near a pond and eventually had great views of a family of Heuglin's Robins. Whitethroated Robins were also heard and seen in drier thickets near the headquarters. Other birds near our campsite included Fantailed/Bluegrey/ Spotted Flycatchers, Blackcollared Barbets, Collared Sunbirds, Southern Black Tits, Lesser Masked Weavers, Kurrichane Thrush, Bleating Warblers, and a Little Sparrowhawk.

We left Skukuza before noon and drove north towards Letaba Camp. We detoured to Orpen Dam which is situated in a valley and surrounded by dry, rocky hillsides. A number of strange trees grew near the picnic site including tree Euphorbias. The water level in the dam was low and many crocodiles could be seen. Branches on trees near the water were weighted down by the hanging nests of Masked Weavers. On the shoreline, we observed a pair of Saddlebilled Storks, Water Dikkops, Common Sandpipers and Whitefaced TreeDucks. We apparently had just missed seeing a Cheetah which had visited the waterhole a little before our arrival.

We continued north and stopped briefly at the Satara Camp for a cool drink. Just outside of the gate, we found a large flock of White Storks which were feeding in a flooded area and a flock of 30 Marabou Storks which were soaring overhead. While sitting in the shade of the veranda of the restaurant, we watched an African Hoopoe and Crested Barbet bathing at a water display. Burchell's Glossy Starlings, Redbilled Buffalo Weavers and Arrowmarked Babblers all searched for scraps of food on and around the tables. Mammals included a herd of Eland just south of the camp.

Near Letaba Camp, we saw huge flocks of Redbilled Queleas and Wattled Starlings flying to roadside waterholes. Our arrival at Letaba camp was near sunset, but a brief walk along the boardwalk which overlooks the Letaba River produced Doublebanded Sandgrouse. These birds were calling and flew back and forth along the river before finally settling to drink. Hippopotamus were observed feeding on the grassy banks of the river, and Bushbucks fed on the lawns within the camp. A Spotted Hyaena walked just beyond the electric fence while surveying the campground.

8 March - At sunrise, we walked to the back of the camp where we could watch a large stretch of the Letaba River. We saw a flock of Maribou Storks and several Hippopotamus on the gravel banks across the river. A number of smaller birds were observed near the water including Chestnutbacked Finchlarks, Brownthroated Martins, Redbreasted Swallows, and Common Sandpipers. The loud song of Redfaced Cisticolas was often heard and the birds were occasionally seen as they sang from cattails growing in the river.

After departing the camp, we initially drove south along a dirt track on the banks of the Letaba River. This track passed through patches of riparian forest. In one such thicket, we played a tape of a Pearlspotted Owl and soon attracted in a mixed flock of passerines consisting of a Paradise Whydah, Southern Black Tits, Yellowbreasted Apalis, Jameson's Firefinch, Longbilled Crombecs, Chinspot Batis, and a Greyheaded Bush Shrike. A Pearlspotted Owl also flew in and began to call, which resulted in a frenzy of mobbing behaviour by the other birds. We had excellent views of the beautiful Greyheaded Bush Shrike which was particularly vigorous in its mobbing of the owl.

The track along the Letaba River eventually diverted to the Oliphants Camp which is nestled in the rocks of a steep hillside and overlooks the Oliphants River. Although it was hot and dry in Kruger, many of the rivers were muddy and rapidly flowing due to rain in the mountains outside of the park. This was true of the Oliphants River and virtually no open shoreline or waterside plants were visible. Many mammals could be seen in the shade of the trees on the floodplain below the camp. These included Zebras, Blue Wildebeests, Waterbucks and Giraffes. We also saw a Blackbacked Jackal as it trotted along a dirt track. A sprinkler on a lawn within the camp was again attractive to birds including Crested Barbets, Whitethroated Robin, Spotted Flycatchers and others

From Oliphants, we headed north along the main road towards Shingwedzi Camp. Just north of the turnoff to Letaba Camp, we saw a large flock of vultures gliding down to a sandbar in the Letaba River. We stopped and watched as Hooded, Whitebacked, Whiteheaded, and Lappetfaced Vultures bathed and then dried their opened wings before again taking to the air. We had terrific views of the departing birds as they spiralled in a thermal directly over our campervan. The huge Lappetfaced Vultures struggled the most to regain altitude and we could hear the wind rustling through their primaries as they passed overhead. While watching the vultures, we also saw a flock of passerines in the nearby shrubs including Southern Black Tits, Longbilled Crombecs, and a singing Olivetree Warbler which was eventually seen.

A little further to the north, we stopped when we saw several cars parked on the shoulder of the road. We initially could not see any animals but eventually realised that there were four Lions laying in the shade of trees within a few meters of the road. The park regulation requiring visitors to stay inside of their vehicles except in designated areas now seemed like a very good idea. The colour of the lions blended perfectly with the dry grass and brush. While we watched the Lions, a lone Buffalo scrambled out of a gully and ran across the road in front of us while looking back at the Lions. The Lions did not react.

As we approached Shingwedzi camp, we saw another of the dwarf antelopes, Sharpe's Grysbok, in the shade of a thicket. We arrived at Shingwedzi Camp in time for another night drive. This drive followed the Shingwedzi River to Kanniedood Dam where we saw an Yellowbilled Stork. Another interesting sighting was of several bull elephants which walked down to the river and began to bathe. One of the elephants would completely submerge itself. We stopped at the base of the Kanniedood Dam and walked with the ranger up the dam wall. Doublebanded Sandgrouse were again seen at twilight as they flew and called over the dam. Along the shoreline, we could see several Hippopotamus, Waterbucks and Crocodiles. Once it was dark, we continued on the drive. Both Water Dikkops and Spotted Dikkops were seen along the dirt tracks as were many nightjars but we could not identify these confusing birds. Five species of nightjars are known to inhabit this area. We had hoped to find a Leopard which the ranger said was often sighted in the thickets along the river but we were not successful. We did encounter an African Wild Cat which resembled a slightly larger version of the domestic cat and saw several of the strange rodents known as Springhaas.

9 March - The campground at Shingwedzi was dry and without a lawn or many large trees. Birds were still numerous. We watched Yellowbilled Hornbills and Greater Blue-Eared Glossy Starlings catch beetles which had been attracted to lights of one of the camp kitchens. A rattling call of a woodpecker soon was found to be from a Bennett's. Along a riparian thicket near the camp headquarters, we found several Heuglin's Robins and also a pair of Greencapped Eremomelas which were travelling with a mixed-species flock. A number of active Redheaded Weaver nests were situated in trees between the cabins, and a pair of Cutthroat Finches was seen at the top of a leafless tree.

We left the camp early and drove north towards the Pafuri Picnic area. This northern portion of the park was much quieter than the south and we often felt as if we had the park to ourselves. The habitat was a mixture of dense thorny shrubs and a rather monotonous area dominated by small mopane trees. Cape Buffalo and Elephants were common, but we did not see nearly as many large mammals as in the southern plains. Birds along the way were also not as diverse but included larger numbers of Secretary Birds, occasional Purple Rollers, and others.

We arrived at the picnic site of Pafuri early on a hot afternoon. The picnic site is situated in an area of dense riparian woodland along the Luvuhuu River. It is an area of great interest since a number of birds of Kruger are more easily found here than elsewhere in the park. We walked to the upper banks of the river and immediately saw several birds which were new to us. A flock of Trumpeter Hornbills flew along the river and then landed in a fruiting figtree. We found a pair of Broadbilled Rollers which hawked for insects from a treetop on the opposite bank. Whitecrowned Plovers were common on the sandbanks as were crocodiles. European, Carmine and Whitefronted BeeEaters were all abundant in the trees along the river.

We sat for awhile on a bench which overlooked the river and watched many birds fly to the water's edge to bathe and drink. Some of the species observed were Greenspotted Doves, Redfaced Mousebirds, Tropical Boubou, Yelloweyed Canaries, Steelblue Widowfinch, and Goldenbreasted Buntings. In a thicket next to the bench, we found a pair of Spectacled Weavers which were creeping among the vines, and a pair of Bleating Warblers. Around the picnic grounds, we saw Longtailed Glossy Starlings and Vervet Monkeys. We also found a flock of Redbilled Woodhoopoes in the trees near the carpark.

About 4 pm, we left Pafuri and drove back to Punda Maria Camp where we spent the night. Punda Maria camp is located on a thickly vegetated hillside in an area of sandy soil. We arrived about a half hour before dark and had a quick look around the dry campground. A Scarletchested Sunbird fed in a tree near our campervan and two Purple Widowfinches were observed at a birdbath in the barbeque area. In the garden near the headquarters, we saw one of the fast moving Sand Snakes (Psammophis sp.).

10 March - Soon after sunrise, I walked along the Paradise Flycatcher Nature Trail which follows the fenceline through woodland along the upper boundary of the camp. As the name implied, African Paradise Flycatchers were frequently sighted. One of the most beautiful birds seen was a Pygmy Kingfisher which perched quietly in a tree. Also found was a pair of Bluegrey Flycatchers.

Back in the campground, we saw several species of birds in the dense thickets which separated the campground from the cabins. Some of the birds encountered here were Eastern Bearded Robins, Whitethroated Robins, Terrestrial Bulbuls, and a Tropical Boubou. Around our campsite we watched Yellowthroated Sparrows, Redbilled Firefinches, Greyrumped Swallows, and a Bearded Woodpecker. We next walked along the lower boundary of the park and were accompanied for several minutes by a tame Warthog. The Warthog stopped periodically to pull out clumps of grass which it ate roots, soil and all. Along the fenceline, we heard a melodic song and eventually spotted a Blackcrowned Tchagra which was singing from the top of a shrub. Also seen in a tree in the same area was a pair of African Hawk Eagles.

We departed the camp at mid-morning and drove around the Mahonie Loop track which traverses a sandy but well vegetated area of rolling hills. Some of the birds that we found along the track included a flock of White Helmetshrikes, an immature Martial Eagle, Mosque and Redbreasted Swallows, and a Marabou Stork.

In the afternoon, we drove towards the Punda Maria gate and then turned onto a small track which led to a the Thulamila viewpoint. On the return drive, we spotted several Yellowbellied Bulbuls, a Striped Kingfisher and Little Green BeeEaters. We also found a bull Elephant which was standing in the middle of the road. We waited for several minutes until it walked off and disappeared into the thorny vegetation. As we drove by the area where it had been standing, we saw a Redbilled Woodhoopoe so we stopped to have a look at the bird. Suddenly, we heard the trumpeting of an Elephant and looked back to see the bull charging down the road towards us while bellowing and flapping its ears. It was a convincing performance and we quickly left the area and the Elephant in peace.

In the evening, we went on a nightdrive from Punda Maria. Soon after departing the camp, we stopped to look at an European Hobby which was perched in a treetop. After dark, we saw many nightjars and we were able to recognise another species, the Mozambique Nightjar, with its distinctive white outer tail feathers. African Scops Owls called from large trees on the Mahonie Loop but we were not able to spot the birds. We did see another Giant Eagle Owl with its unusual pink eyelids. Mammals included Elephants, Greater Kudus, Impalas, Bushbucks, Bushbabbies, Large-spotted Genets, an African Civet, Scrub Hare, and many Springhaas. Our driver amazed us when he suddenly stopped the vehicle, ran back to a shrub and then returned with a small Chameleon. He had spotted the lizard with only the aid of the headlights.

11 March - We drove to the Pafuri Picnic site shortly after sunrise. Along the way, the road crossed an area of tall mopane trees where we found two Littlebanded Goshawks. In the sandy flats nearer the main north-south road, we found several Doublebanded Sandgrouse dustbathing on the road and saw a Rock Kestrel perched on a power line. Near Pafuri, we found a large flock of Crested Guineafowls which were crossing the road.

Pafuri was full of birds. Around the borders of the picnic grounds, we heard and then saw Hueglin's Robins, Terrestrial Bulbuls, and a Wattleyed Flycatcher. An immature Crowned Eagle perched in a treetop on the opposite side of the river for nearly 30 minutes before vanishing into the forest. As the temperature climbed, vultures were seen rising in the thermals. While watching a Whiteheaded Vulture, we noticed several swifts which then dropped down to the river. These proved to be Bohm's Spinetails, a species which appears to be almost tailless. We heard alot of splashing in the river below us but initially could not see the source of the commotion. Eventually, a crocodile drifted into view and it was in the process of crushing what appeared to be a large catfish.

Later, we travelled east from Pafuri along the Luvuhuu River through riparian woodland and an area with many large, yellow-barked Fever Trees. Some of the birds that we recorded here included a Black Cuckooshrike, many Yellowbellied Bulbuls, Woolynecked Storks, Redbilled Helmetshrikes, Redchested Cuckoo, and a Jacobin Cuckoo. Gorgeous Bush Shrikes were occasionally heard, but we could not see these secretive birds. Further along, the road looped back to the main north-south road and passed through dense, low-growing mopane scrub. Not many birds were found here, but we saw one mixed-species flock which contained White Helmetshrikes, many Redheaded Weavers including the only fully-coloured male that we encountered, and a pair of Whitebellied Sunbirds.

In mid-afternoon, we again tried the Pafuri Picnic area. Near the caretakers house, we found an interesting mixed-species flock which contained a Yellow White-Eye, a pair of Orangebreasted Bush Shrikes, Yellowbreasted Apalis, Greencapped Eremomela, and Bleating Warblers. A male African Golden Oriole was sighted as it flew from tree to tree along the river. A herd of the colourful Nyala antelope were also seen as they walked through the picnic grounds. Vervet Monkeys were again numerous about the picnic area and one succeeded in running off with a loaf of bread when we briefly walked to the car from our table.

12 March - Today, we awakened to cloudy and windy conditions. We began by driving the Mahonie Loop before departing Kruger via the Pafuri Gate. While on the Mahonie Track, we stopped and watched a flock of Ground Hornbills which walked across the road. A new bird for us was the Neddicky, another member of the Cisticola family. We also found a Pearlspotted Owl, a flock each of White and Redbilled Helmetshrikes, a pair of Lesser Spotted Eagles, and another pair of Bennett's Woodpeckers. Several Cape Parrots were seen in flight near Punda Maria Camp.

While heading north, we stopped briefly at Pafuri, but this time it was quiet. We did find a Tambourine Dove along the river, and a Scimitarbilled Woodhoopoe. As we continued towards the Pafuri Gate, we found a beautiful blue and green Chameleon which was crossing the road. It had an amazing ability to rapidly change colour when disturbed. It also hissed and displayed its yellow mouth lining when we moved it to the side of the road. Near Pafuri Gate, we saw a Black (Verreaux's) Eagle and a flock of Dusky Larks. The strange Baobab trees with their enormus trunks were common in this northern portion of the park.

From Pafuri Gate, we travelled west towards Messina.

On To Part 3 of the Detailed Account: Ben Lavin, Magoebaskloof Area & Nyslvlei Nature Reserve.