scottish rock
| Cairngorms |
Smith's Arete E5 6a
Ballater |
R3?, SkH, possible RP placement on right, but hard to place. F0.5 in top break (I think). F6c |
Run Of The Arrow E6 6b
Shelter Stone |
DMM Wallnut 1, runout, F0 last gear before crux.
Also, there are some good
RPs (2,3?) in the vertical flake above the F0, nearer the crux
step left. So the crux is fall-offable, but the move up to place the
F0 is a full-on E5 5c experience. Dougie Hall thought this route to be E6 not E5.
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The Harp E3 5c,6a
Shelter Stone |
1. F4 under roof, RPs above. 2. Much gear on crux pitch, small/medium Friends very useful. |
Buddha E7 6c
Creag an Dubh Loch |
A whole mêlée of RPs, F1?, HB Quadcam 00, RnR1 in the flake before hard, steeper section. Couldn't get any gear in above this that held. Easier for the tall (ie. Sticky + Stork), maybe E6 6b for them. F7b+ |
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| Glen Coe & Nevis area |
Agrippa E5 6a
Carn Dearg, Ben Nevis |
1. A well-protected E2 5c pitch. 2. Crux pitch.
Step up left to a large sloping ledge. Committing moves (6a) up left
side of the arete past a small wire lead to a small spike hold, sling +
medium F under overlap on the left + wire in crack up on the left. Move
up, small wire in base of flake crack on right, step right around the
arete and up to jugs, large wire. Move up to more good holds on the
hollow block, small wires in crack just above (possible medium F in slot
further up just right of the arete?). Move left around the edge (6a) and
run it out up and leftwards past a delicate move (6a) to gain a good
flake. Easier moves lead up and right to the belay.
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Acknowledgements: thanks to Neil Morrison, John Wilson, Simon Witcher.
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Beta Central
| Key | |
| R - | rock / nut |
| F - | Friend or equivalent sized cam |
| RP - | guess what. |
| HB - | offset brass nut |
| SkH - | Skyhook, weighted if neccesary but not tied-down to the floor with a spare rope as that's
plain cheating |
| RnR - | DMM Rock'n'Roller, the 'camming' nuts with movable 'roller' on one side. Slugs or other sliders such as Ball-nuts might also work |
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