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Latin name: Python Regius Common name(s): Ball python, Royal python Native to: They come from central and Western Africa. Adult size: They are one of the smallest of the pythons, adult females can reach 5 feet but they usually only get 4 and males around 3 to 4 feet. Life span: Ages of 25+ years in captivity can be reached with proper care. Eggs and young: Feeding: Ball Pythons are notorious for being non-eaters. They should be fed pre-killed prey, make sure to use tongs to feed with. The general rule of thumb is that the snake shouldn't eat anything bigger that the widest part of its body. A baby ball should begin feeding on small hopper mice every 4 to 5 days. Juveniles should eat one medium or adult mouse every week. When they get bigger, feed them an appropriately sized rat every week and a half. Then when they are adults you can feed them an adult rat or an appropriately sized rabbit every 2 weeks. Ball pythons may refuse to feed during the winter months or if they are in shed. Avoid handling after a sizable meal, as this is stressful and may cause regurgitation. Never leave a live rodent in the snake's cage without supervision. It is a good idea to track when your snake has fed to maintain a proper system. Reluctant feeders may be more apt to eat with the lights off and may prefer to ambush prey from a hide box. Handling: Always support the snake's body and avoid fast movement. A snake may bite if it is nervous or has mistaken you for food. Temperament: Ball pythons are generally docile, good-natured and have a pleasant disposition. When threatened, they will roll up in a ball with their head in the center, hence the name. Cage set up: Enclosures should be at least as long as the reptiles body and width at least a third of their length. A 20-gallon long tank is good for baby ball pythons. A good water bowl to use is a large dog water dish. Hide box's are very important, because that's where they spend most of the day. A hide box can be constructed of a shallow flowerpot with a hole knocked out of the side or caves can be bought at pet stores. There should be one on the cool end and one on the warm end to allow your snake to choose where he wants to be. Other things can be added to make it more attractive. Rocks, live (as long as they are safe) or fake plants, and even branches can be placed inside the enclosure. You should clean the enclosure out every time your snake defecates. Simple soap and water can be used if rinsed out well, or vinegar works too. Lighting: An incandescent light can be used during the day but doesn't put off much heat. Heat lamps can also be used; just make sure that it is out of reach so the snake cannot burn itself. Red lights may be used for heating during the night since this type of light does not disrupt the snakes. Heating: Snakes like their heat from underneath. This is best accomplished with a reptile heat pad on a thermostat under the cage. Temperatures of 85 to 92F are good for the warm side and 77 to 80F on the cool side. It may be necessary when using aquariums to cover part of the lid to maintain ideal temperatures. Humidity: Ball pythons like to have a large water bowl to drink from, plus this can help with the humidity. The humidity should be at about 45 - 65%.
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