Description of some cuts and styles
Skirts
You may wish to add pockets & or lining. All skirts are made with a back (concealed) zip except for wrapped skirt. For alternative fastening see below.

Pleated
box pleats or knife pleats brings you back to the school days.

A Line
fitted at the waist, slight flare round the edges great as work wear.

Double dart
2 pairs on darts instead of 1 provides additional shaping round the hip & abdomen.

Tight/ pencil
fitted from waist down; an elegant way to show off the figure.

Flare
tight round the waist, flare at the base; the rock & roll dress.

Gathered
gathered round the waist when made with elastic waistband for greater comfort for a folksy , country look.

Pants

You may wish to add pockets. All pants are made with a front or side zip.

Pleated
2 pairs of pleats cut for comfort

Fitted
fitted round the waist may be cut tapered or straight round the edges suitable for all shapes, work or casual wear

3/4 length
similar to the fitted pants cut around the knee to shin; casual wear; good for running errands.

Shirt / Blouse

This is the must-have item in any wardrobe. Put blouse together by choosing cut of bodice, neckline, sleeve & pockets.

Dress

An essential one-piece for the lazy dresser. Put dress together by choosing cut of bodice, neckline, sleeve & pockets. Decide if you would like it cut close to the body or flared at the base.

Cuts

Empire Line
fitted at the bust line & cut with ease round the waist;this cut emphasizes the bust line and face, away from the waist.

Princess line
cut at the shoulder/yoke similar, down the bust, waist to the hem; has a slimming effect

Butterfly cut
cut at the armhole similar to the princess cut it also has a slimming effect

With darts
added for shaping of the bodice
No darts
a bodice cut leaving out the darts; loose fit only

 

Collar

Scoop neck
round neck, can be high (close to the neck) or low (near the bust line) show off your neck line

Boat neck
variation on the scoop neck; cut high and wide (shoulder to shoulder) popularize by Audrey Hepburn in the Dior dress of the fifties.

V neck
this neckline has a slimming effect.

Peter Pan
rounded or sharp edge on the front, this collar sits flat on the shoulders

Eton
also known as the stand up collar

Mandarin
aka Cheong Sam collar close fitting, this collar add a formal touch to your clothing

Hawaiian / Tailor's
suitable a casual wear comfortable without looking sloppy

Shawl collar
less common, this collar frames the face in a dramatic fashion

Shirt collar
a must-have office wear, this collar never loses it’s style

Spagetti strap
not really a collar. the thin strap hold up a tube top

frilled
cut wider on the edge to form a wave. Not to be confused with the gathered collared.

Ribbon
collar that extends to 2 straps and fastened into a ribbon.

 

Sleeve

Short (plain)
the sleeve great as work wear ease of movement

Cap
a sleeve somewhere between the short sleeve and sleeveless suitable for the petite figure

Sleeveless
a tropical favourite

Fitted - long
a good option for the office

Long with cuff
goes with formal shirt

Long with gathers & cuff
fitted near the armhole & with volume at the wrist think Judy Garland

Long with Flare
starts narrow around the armhole and flared at the wrist.

Puff
a truly girlish style; for really skinny arms.

Raglan
cuts across the shoulders at the neckline

Pockets

Pockets add functionality to clothing. This is not advised for fitted pieces as it adds additional bulk around the abdomen and hips.

Simple
aka the patch pocket

Side
for skirt, pants and dresses a favourite as it has the least bulk

Concealed
mostly commonly seen as men’s pants back pocket, jacket breast pocket

Concealed with Flap
for jackets and coats, may not be suitable for skirts.

updated April 2002 ©juunta
 

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