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Q: In looking over the ALES classlist, I see that I have pix for events that could go in more than one class or category. How do I go about choosing the best class to enter that particular pix?
A: When getting ready to enter a show, read the name of the event on the photoback to best gauge what class to enter it in. If the event is not listed in the classlist, then it's safe bet to just enter it in the generic OTHER PERF. But generally, try to determine what type of event category the performance being done in the pix falls under, and go from there. For example, a PACK SCRAMBLE pix would more likely go into ENDURANCE/RACING/OTHER class because it's really more of an serious skill type event (for professional pack outfitters) than a GYMKHANA/GAMER's type event. But then if you had like a SCAVENGER HUNT type shot, then that pix would be considered more of a fun gaming type event than a serious skill contender type event, so you'd enter that one in like OTHER GYMKHANA. See the difference?
Q: What kind of classes can I show in with my pack mules?
A: Actually there are all kinds of packing classes for mules at larger shows. PACK TRAIL for one, and just like normal saddle type trail classes where donks or mules are in full packharness gear, and led through an obstacle course (like a bridge, L-shaped ground poles, simulated water hazzard, weaving through cones, etc.). These can be in-hand leadline setups with single or miniature pack animals. There's also a MULESKINNER TRAIL class where entrants atop a horse or another mule, leads anywheres from two to five pack mules through a maze of cones/ground poles/bridgework, etc. in an arena setting.
One of my more favorite events though, is the PACK SCRAMBLE where the donkey or mule, wearing only a halter and lead, has to stand still while two humans scurry to pack & load a variety of objects onto the animal's back. First one to pack up and lead the critter across the finish line wins!
Q: What class would I enter a photo of the single-man pack scramble event? One man holds the mule, while the packer has to get the harness, packs and whatever else packed on in the shortest time. It's in the arena, but I don't think it'd be a gymkhana event. And sure not Other Stockwork. How about M/H Endurance/Racing/Other?? Would it fit in there??
A: I would enter those type of pix in the #83 M/H ENDURANCE/RACE/OTHER class. It's almost a cross between a pack trail and gaming (because it's timed)event but still, in a league all it's own so really #83 would be the best most fair OTHER PERF choice.
Q: I recently picked up a Draft type mule and had planned on only showing him in realistic type perf classes (like driving) but in looking over results, I recognized some of the placings as Draft mules and yet they were entered in equitation, trail, cattlework, speed type events, etc. Is this a true reflection of how it is in the real or live world?
A: Everything you said is true to a point. And luckily, most entrants follow that line of reasoning. Also, most knowledgeable judges would place a draft animal accordingly. There have been shows where draft type mules either didn't place at all or else did mediocre.
On the other hand, we also have to keep John Henry in mind (that wonderful real black percheron mule that's been making headlines in the ADMS Brayers and real horse magazines recently). He's been entering huntseat pleasure, driving, coonjumping, and dressage classes in real life, and placing rather well as I've read. His owner is doing it to show the world that with the right attitude & training even DRAFT mules CAN DO in the arena in events usually reserved for the lighter breeds. It's been kind of an inspiration really, for both model enthusiasts AND owners/showers of live draft animals. I remember reading an article in Western Horseman a few years back about a Clydesdale or Shire that had entered that infamous "Battle of the Breeds" contest in California as a hoot, the only draft animal among throngs of Arabs, TB's, QH's, Morgans, Warmbloods, etc., and still managed to place high enough in overall standings to end up winning the dang contest! They had 3 days of competition in all sorts of disciplines ranging from hunt/jump courses to dressage, driving, to equitation. A panel of judges awarded them points/penalties, etc. which was tallied up at the end of the 3 day run. The animal with the most points was the winner. So you could do really lousy at one event, but make up for the lost points by winning the next two, and so on. Anyways, it was big news that a draft animal won. The article ran pix of him under english attire, head tucked perfectly up against the rail. He really looked smart! So yeah, it could be argued that draft animals should NOT be banned against entering traditionally non-draft events, if they have the right training, etc.
If you wanted to campaign say a Breyer Balker as the next "John Henry" of the model show world, you are certainly free to do so. Photograph him under english or western attire, argue that the reason he's in gymkhana/cutting/roping/jumping/etc. is becuz he likes to run, chase things, jump, etc. and that you as his owner are just capitalizing on that natural ability. This IS allowed. In fact, there are some PONY mules competing in mule perf against the "bigger" guys and doing quite well, thank you very much! Same rule applies to them. You don't always have to have the fastest animal in order to compete (or even win!) in an event. This holds true for both the model world and real life!
Case in point: my Balker Cactus Jack, (past HOF winner/retiree). I had him down as a draft type mule, yet I successfully campaigned him in many non-draft type events both in and out of ALES. But it was always within reason. I only photographed him in tasks that I felt he looked plausible in executing. For example, being in the balking position that he's in, he would certainly look silly in dressage (I mean, how would I explain his position?), yet with a little creativity he looked awesome in roping classes (slamming on the brakes after the rope was around the steers horns), western reining classes (executing the infamous slide stop), barrels/poles (rounding the last one), and even coonjumping (gathering legs under him right before the big leap over the bar). In equitation classes, I had him in the final lineup, backing up at the judge's request. As long as you can reasonably explain what's happening in the photo, you should be able to enter your draft animal in just about any perf class.
If I were the judge, and a Draft mule was entered in a large cutting/roping class, I would take everything into consideration. If I could not find any faults in which to penalize him, ranging from his tack (fit & correctness of it), to the event or task being performed, and if the photography (frame) was flawless (not blurry, etc.), then I would be inclined to place the draft OVER any other more traditional saddle mule pix entry that DID have flaws. See what I mean?
Q: How come Youngstock have halter showmanship classes but adults do not?
A: There are no showmanship classes for the adults mostly cuz they already have alot of other classes to enter. Juanita was really reaching, trying to come up with enough plausible performance type classes for youngsters so created a set of showmanship classes for the little ones. It’s too bad Entrants often remember to enter pix of their youngsters (in halter & leadrope) in the halter division but then turn around and forget that the same pix can also be entered in SHOWMANSHIP classes provided in the Youngstock Perf section or division. As long as the pix has your youngstock (models 2 yrs old and under) in halter and a leadrope, then it's considered a "showmanship" pix and therefore can enter any "showmanship" specified classes.
Q: I have this foal showmanship photo that I always enter in both halter and Youngstock perf (showmanship) yet I find that even tho the class #’s are clearly visible on the photoback, too often he's not judged or included in perf. How do I go about making sure the judge remembers to enter him in both halter AND perf classes?
A: Unfortunately, this happens all too often but I have noticed that if I take the time to put a sticky note tab (esp. a bright colored one) on the top corner of the photo front, it often alerts the Judge to pay special attention to that particular pix and remember to pull it out of the halter stack and into the Youngstock Perf stack. Be sure to write in black ink "Double Entry" across the sticky note tab, as it IS serving both as a halter AND perf shot. NOT 100% foolproof but it certainly helps!
Q: Are model snow pix ever allowed/used/shown in entering PS’s?
A: You betcha! (Remember the Cover model Pix on the front of the Dec/Jan 2000 issue?) Allow me to encourage you to take advantage of that little medium! Done right, you could get some really pretty "mule in a field of snow" halter entry shots, or perhaps dress your mule up in mountain man gear and suddenly you have a nice costume entry shot. Got a pack harness? Drape a Deer over its back and now you've got an other perf entry (hunting season - packing in a deer). Got a sleigh? Well then, hook up your mule and turn 'em loose on the snow and now you've got a nice harness/driving class entry. *Snow* can be a wonderful FUN medium to work with, whether using the REAL stuff or bag of fake stuff found at local hobby/craft stores!
Q: I have a standing/walking model and cart that aren’t flexible enough to be photographed making a tight U-turn inside a U-turn obstacle for a Driving Trail class. How can I tackle this problem?
A: Well, try making the shot be of your model just starting to go inside the box, or just exiting the box like she just accomplished that obstacle. OR have her just starting the turn (photographed at a slight angle).
When you go to photograph a model for a event, it doesn't necessarily have to be at the midway point of the task execution. In other words, a “before the task,” “during the task,” or “after the task” shot. Your pix can reflect an event being executed at the very beginning, during, or tail end of a task or event. Sometimes, the action or position of a model can also help determine what part of the task (before, during, or after) you should snap his perf shot at. Take Hunt/Jump classes for example. If you have a galloping model, you can easily photograph him on jump approach, right? (Good example of a “during the task” shot). But what if your model is only walking? Well, make him just entering the arena, (a “before the task” shot) going thru the main arena entry gate, with maybe just a glimpse of the jump obstacle in the far background, enough to give the impression of what the event is and at what stage your model is at in the game. Same “before” idea for standing models. Show them waiting at the gate for the judge to say she's ready for them to proceed. An “after the task” shot example, would be the same standing model posing in front of the same jump after the event, with trophy cup in hand or with judge walking up to congratulate them for winning the class. What’s more, there's also a jumping class where, after the jumps have been made, the rider has to dismount in front of the judge, and take the bit/headstall out of their mount's mouth for inspection. This is a good place ["after the task” photo opportunity] for standing models. See what I mean?
For HARNESS TRAIL or OBSTACLE DRIVING, you could have walking models & their driver just leaving the Mailbox obstacle, like they just completed that task. This would be an example of an “after the task” shot. Standing models on the other hand, could benefit being photographed right on the spot, with driver leaning over to the task of opening & closing the mailbox; an example of an “during the task” shot. Or the same standing model could again be poised at the arena gate, waiting for the judge to signal she’s ready. If you choose to go this route, just be sure to angle your “before the task” shot to include a portion of the trail obstacle at hand so that the viewer/judge clearly understands what class or event this picture is of. You can do this with a forward & slightly to the side camera angle of the model & vehicle, with the trail obstacle blurred in the foreground/background.
Applying the same principle but this time for a regular or plain ol Driving/Harness class, photograph models with a 2nd doll poised as the judge who is waving all vehicle entries to please line up to where she's at. A standing model could already be at that spot, waiting for others to fall in (a “after the task” shot). A walking model could be on the rail turning towards the judge to line up (an during the task” shot).
Use your imagination. When you think of an event, remember that depending on the model position [whether standing, walking, trotting, etc.] you are allowed to show the model in any portion of the execution of that task, meaning at any time before, during, or just after the task. If you add a little diagram on your photobacks with a tiny little explanation as to where the model is at the stage of the task being executed, that goes a long ways towards helping the judge understand the photo. Many judges like little explanations and will reward you in the overall placings if you go to such lengths.
Q: What are some good simple trail driving patterns using ground poles or cones?
A: Depending on what part of the country you happen to be in determines whether ground poles or cones are used as obstacle driving course patterns. However, the patterns & premise are basically identical. You can make ground poles out of arrow shafts/wooden dowels found at most hobby craft stores. Cut to length (10 to 12” for traditional sized models all the way down to approx. 4” for stablemate size) and painted solid white, they make excellent ground pattern markers for saddle or harness trail classes. For cones, buy a handful of magic markers and just paint the the caps with bright orange acrylic paint (gessoed first so that the paint sticks better) for use as cones. Or else keep a portion of the caps the original plastic color (like say, black) and line your pattern as 2 sets of cone colors laid out in such a way as to mark the pattern to help the entrant understand/follow it. For example, if all you had were black & orange cones, you could use them to mark the inside/outside perimeters of the box.
Key: I = black cones i = orange cones G = garage
With Diagram 2, you have the bonus of utilizing the center box for the “garage” area where the animal must back the cart in to, without disturbing the cones. Sometimes ground poles are used in lieu of cones, lying flat in the arena dirt or either elevated atop flat-topped cones, accruing penalty points for being pushed or knocked down or out of alignment.
Also keep in mind you're NOT limited to just the above patterns.
You can use tight turns, switchbacks, u-turns, weaves, etc. as illustrated in diagrams 3 and 4, to add a degree of difficulty to the task or event. Combine cones and ground poles for a really versatile setup, or dress up the course a little bit with a few added flowerpot decorations, brush, flags, balloons, etc. at the mouths of each pattern course for both athestics and added degree of difficulty. Be creative!
Q: What is leadline trail?
A: This is a trail class generally reserved for youngstock and miniatures on foot using only halter and leadrope for headgear. Obstacles are the same as Saddle Trail (ex: mailbox, cone weave, ground poles, blue tarp, gate, bridge, water hazard, slicker, etc.) and of course the object of the class is to perform each task confidently and quietly, showcasing your animal’s calm controlled manner, willingness, and trust. Often times in Pack trail, entrants have option to lead a miniature to full size animal in-hand and on foot, with the donkey/mule/zebra. etc., under full pack (harness). This class is sometimes also called “In-Hand Leadline Trail.”
Q: I thought Artist Resins were only made out of resin based materials, yet many of the current artist sculptures on the market are not. What gives?
A: Yes it can be all rather confusing. Today, "Artist Resins" come in many different forms or mediums ranging from true polyresin type material (Ex: Amarna models) to ceramic-like breakable material (Ex: Janice Brent-Starr draft mule) to plastic type resins (Ex: Jennifer Harris “Court Jester” saddle mule). They're all considered “ARTIST Resins.” HOWEVER, even more confusing is figuring out if your new Artist Resin should be shown alongside Customs or in separate Artist Resin classes sometimes offered at shows. As a general rule of thumb, apply the same criteria used when determining OF status. If your Artist Resin model was painted or finished solely by it’s creator, then it would be considered a true Artist Resin. If it were painted or finished by someone OTHER THAN the original mold creator, then it would be in the same league as a touched up or redone Breyer ~ he is now a "Customized" Artist Resin and should be shown alongside other customized critters.
Q: I recently purchased a cute set of salt and pepper shakers at an antique show. I had to have them as they are each a bale of hay inserted in the back of a cart led by of all things ... a donkey!!! There is a small figure of a man leading the donkey attached. Should I enter this piece in photoshows under the FM category? I wondered as there is a person figure included.
A: If the donk is more realistic looking than cutesy-cutesy, then by all means show it in the regular or normal looking donk division. If the donk figurine is more cutesy or cartoony, then show it in the FM division. Any rider/handler/driver etc. that may be attached to the donk figurine is normally inconsequential. There are a few FM's that show in the FM performance classes because they have riders/handlers/drivers, etc. that go with them. In other words Arlene, go for it!
Q: I found an adoreable pair of donkey salt & pepper shakers at a local antique show this weekend. My question is, when I register them, should I register them together as a pair? or do they need to show separately?
A: It's entirely up to you, but I'd reccommend registering & showing them as two separate critters, twins ok, but individually so they can have their own individual show careers, show points, etc.
Q: What is the difference between different donkey breeds? I mean, if I have a Mexican Burro and a Standard donkey, what do I call the baby? I am very confused about donkey breeds.
A: In USA, donkeys (asses) are divided up by type instead of breed (and called) the following:
Miniature [this includes Sicilian & Sardinian imported stock]
Small Standard [any donk breed of pony size - includes mexican burros & BLM feral stock]
Large Standard [any donk breed of saddle horse size]
Mammoth Jackstock [a particular American created breed]
Poitou [a french breed that is rare & endangered & being imported and bred in this country as well]
In Europe, donkeys are usually called by their breed name:
Irish Ass [Irish breed]
Grand Noir de Berry Ass [french breed]
Poitou Ass [french breed]
Andalusian Ass [spanish breed]
Zamarano-Leones Ass [spanish breed]
Catalonian Ass [spanish breed]
Majorcan Ass [spanish/italian breed]
Mallorcan Ass [spanish breed]
Maltese Ass [italian breed]
Martina-Franca [italian/greek breed]
Ragusan Ass [italian breed]
Romagnolo [italian/greek breed]
White Egyptian Ass [middle eastern breed]
Arabian White Ass [middle eastern breed]
Cyprus Ass [middle eastern breed]
Iranian Ass [middle eastern breed]
Turkish Ass [middle eastern breed]
Muscat Ass [african breed]
Sudanise Ass [african breed]
Ethiopian Ass [african breed]
Nigerian Ass [african breed]
Shantung Ass [chinese breed]
There are countless dozens more, but this at least gives you some idea. The standard donk in the USA is a mixture of many imported breeds, hence why the term “Large & Small Standard” is used.
Q: What is the standard length of time in waiting for one's photo returns from a show?
A: I personally give Judges 3 weeks before getting worried about returning pix. That extra week is good leeway in case unexpected stuff came up that forced the judge to delay judging or typing/mailing results. Or maybe the post office is slow on delivery (hey it happens!). If by the end of the 3rd week I still haven't received pix, then I'd end a nice letter or email, politely inquiring as to the status of the show.
This same occasional time lapse of sending & receiving photos is also another reason why I encourage members to have at least 3 sets of photos per model. That way if one set is tied up at another show, you still have an extra set to send or enter the next consecutive show. The 3rd set is for models showing in ALES Nationals or Honors (because it's been known to take 30 days or more for turnaround judging time on that one!
Remember that not getting what you want
is sometimes a wonderful stroke of luck!
--unknown
(This Page last updated: July 24, 2000)
