LORETO BAJA CALIFORNIA MEXICO

HOTELS and RESTURANTS

.....Here are my opinons, likes and dislikes on some of the better Resorts, Hotels Motels and Resturants in the Loreto area. I wont try to give you a bunch of facts and figures,other guide books to that. I'll rather try to give you a little local color and some of my impressions.I'm not a cynic, but have traveled a lot. I've stayed in almost every Hotel, good and bad in Loreto and will give you some choices, fancy and plain, expensive and cheap, and will provide reservation information if I have it. Please remember the cardnal rule about what is written of Mexico, "It Will Change". No matter how hard I try, things are changing quicker than I can get you the infomation. So take my rantings with a sense of humor, a pinch of salt and a little Tequila. Hotels and Resturants go from good to bad, sometimes overnight, and because it may be several months between visits your experience might be quite different from mine. I also have my own personal quirks that color my opinion. But I will try and be objective within reason.

A Word about Mexican Baja Hotels For purposes of this article RESORTS mean full service Hotels and Resturants with Resort type activitys. HOTELS means Accomodations and Resturant, and MOTELS means accomodation only.

Baja is still very remote. Something as simple as a toilet bowl float could take months to get. Things that break take a long time to fix. Mexicans are masters of improvisation and do a wonderfull job of getting by with a minimum of new parts. In every Resort,Hotel and Motel I have ever stayed at in Baja, something didn't work. I tell you this to prepare you for what you might expect. Dont get mad, yell or scream. It does no good. There doing the best that they can, under the circumstances. Manana, does not mean tomorrow. It means, " Not today ", and thats very different.

In smaller Mexican Hotels and Motels it is perfectly proper to ask to see the room Before you rent it. The smaller hotels may not have heat, air conditioning or hot water but may have a television. Go figure? Some of the smaller hotels do not have room keys, just dead bolts on the doors. Chickens running around on the roofs and Rooster's crowing at all hours are not unusual. Clean sheets reaking of bleach appear to be the rule and the people are almost always friendly and helpfull. I do remember overhearing a Lady tourist, outside of a small hotel in Mulaje saying, " I not sleeping in there Harry! Id rather sleep in the car." She did.( The Hotel wasn't that bad. It was late, I was tired and cold and everything else was full.)

...The Resort Hotels for the most part meet North American Hotel standards.

RESORTS

.... There is only one full service resort Hotel in Loreto and that is the Camino Real Loreto Baja Beach. Located about nine miles South of town and four miles from the airport. The Camino Real was originally developed by FONATUR. This branch of the Mexican Federal Government is charged with developing economic resort areas, such as Can Cun, Ixtapa, and Los Cabos. The Resort was built over twenty years ago but only prospered during the last few years.

.... The first time I stayed at what is now the Camino Real, was then, the "El Presidente Nopolo". The employees out numbered the guest five to one. Only about twenty or so rooms out of the two hundred and twenty were occupied. We thought we had found heaven for thirty dollars a night. There was new jet airport in Loreto but no one in the USA knew where Loreto was, or how to get there. The scrub brush behind the Hotel was to be a golf course but year after year it remained unchanged. There was no water source to feed the golf course. Different operators tried to make a go of the Hotel, but with no luck. A few Baja bums in their four wheel drive trucks, or pilots from private airplanes, mingled with the few tourist that had flown in on the three times a week jet. There was not much to do but soak up the sun, fish and explore. We loved it.

.... Of course, nothing last for ever and the secret was soon out. A few years ago a water supply was secured, the golf course bloomed, the Hotel got a major redo and a fresh marketing plan. Now called the Camino Real Loreto Baja Beach, it's last incarnation was as the Eden. The new owners have changed the format dramaticly, getting rid of the all inclusive plan and swingers tours. it is not billed as a family resort. Aero Mexico is now flying into Loreto several times a week. This is a big help to the local economy and a boon for travels who would rather fly than drive

Pool Side at the Camino Real Resort

The Beach is pleasent but rocky, being covered with sand that was brought in. Plan your sunning for the mornings as the wind likes to come up in the afternoon. The water in the Sea of Cortez is not the clear blue green stuff you find in the Caribbean. Its a little murky close to shore. Away from the beach it clears up for diving. There is a rocky reef about one hundred feet off the beach. Be careful as it is quite shallow. For the best diving arrange for a guide with the hotel.

.

RECOMENDATIONS.....Most guest's I talked to were enjoying their stay at the Camino Real Loreto. The plus's are golf, fishing, the peace and quite that is Baja. The main complaints were,

1.Food. After a weeks stay, guests found it boring and repitious.

2. Not enough different things to do. (These people didn't plan activities away from the Hotel),and

3. Bad weather days.

... The food comments are easy to fix. Get a cab and go into town. There are several very good resturants, all of which are moderately priced. The El Nido steak house in town serves a wonderful menu and is always crowded. Wonderful steaks for about $10 to $13 US. You will meet lots of other Camino Real guests at the El Nido.

I recently recived a e-mail from a couple that spent two weeks at the resort and complained about the lack of things to do. The problem was their travel agent told them the Camino Real Loreto would be like Hawaii or the Caribbean. IT'S NOT It's remote and isolated. Wonderful if thats what you want, but if you are expecting to go bar hopping, or eat in a different resturant every night, this is not the place, and Loreto is still going to seem pretty tame. For some variety, plan to rent a car for at least one day and go exploring. Rental cars are expensive in Mexico. Budget 75 dollars per day, but belive me you will enjoy the experience. There is very little traffic in this part of Baja and driving is not a problem for most people. Highway 1 is the only paved road with the exception a few roads in town. You wont get lost. Take the Insurance on the rental car, Mexico has very different laws than the US or Canada. Read the SIDE TRIPS section, later on this page.There at least five days worth of day trips from Loreto.

If driving bothers you there are lots of taxi's availible by the hour,tour or trip. They dont have meters so agree on the price before you travel. Other activities include taking a tour to visit the whales or the desert pictographs. Vist Primera Agua or the Mission at San Javiar. All are wonderful adventures to one of the last frontiers in North America.

As for bad weather, every place has bad weather days, including Loreto. Be ready for a blast of cold air in the Winter, or really hot days during the Summer. If the weather goes sour, be flexible and try to get off the beach or golf course, and go exploring. The soul of Baja is only a few miles away.

MOTELS

La Pinta Hotel Reservations can be made at any La Pinta Hotel in Baja, or your travel agent.) On the Beach about one mile North of the Mission Plaza. This was the original FONATUR Hotel in Loreto. When the Nopolo Hotel was built,(now the EDEN)this property lost popularity. Located on the beach it's a short walk to the marina fishing boats. Its quite and clean and in better than average condition. You can walk to the Mission in about 15 minutes.
The Oasis Hotel Located in a tropical setting on the beach about one mile South of the Mission Plaza. This quaint hotel and RV park has been a baja favorite for many years
La Mission Hotel On the seawall three blocks East of the Mission Plaza this was one of the original Loreto Hotels. A large three story building with a swiming pool in the center this hotel has been a favorite of fishermen for over 20 years. The upstairs bar is still a fishermans hangout and you can always find out what the fishing and weather are doing over a frosty margarita. The Hotel itself is OK but my last stay there the rooms were getting pretty shabby. No TVs except in the bar. The resturant is typical Mexican but not outstanding. Good for breakfest or lunch but there is better in town for dinner.
Hotel Loreto On the main street accross from the Mission museum this a new building and looks quite nice. I have not stayed there yet but plan to this year. The downtown location has some advantages and is great for people watching from the sidewalk dining room and bar. The beach is only a couple of blocks away anyway.

MAP OF CENTRAL LORETO


The Eden Hotel is not on this map and is about 8 miles south of the central part of town. If you are not use to reading maps of Baja here are a few pointers. There is only one highway in this part of Baja and that is Highway 1, the Transpeninsular Highway. There are few if any street signs in small towns like Loreto. Except for major roads most roads in town are dirt. Rivers do not have water in them unless its raining and if its raining the rivers are dangereous. Even though you may worry about getting lost, you wont. The towns are small and all roads lead somewhere. Potholes and road repairs are common and can be big enough to swallow a small truck, so be very carefull. Nights are very dangerious. Big deep holes, or road repairs are black and not lit at night and your headlights wont show them very well.

SIDE TRIPS

Here is a quick list of trips out of Loreto that can be done during daylight hours.Baja is open range and driving after dark except for going into town is discoraged. Trust me you cant see a black cow on a dark night. Been there, done that.

Loreto Mission and Primera Agua The center of Loreto surrounds the old Mission and Plaza. It's a 15 minute taxi ride from the Eden Resort. Visit the Mission, Museum, and curio shops. Walk down to the Beach, about two blocks and along the seawall. Shops are closed for siesta 1PM to 4PM. Enjoy lunch at one of the local resturants. On the way back have the driver take you to Primera Agua. You have to get tickets from the Hotel. It's about 4 miles off of Highway 1 on a dirt road. It is a great example of the Palm Canyons that dot the Baja Peninsula. This is where the Spanish first discovered water in Baja. Its a real oasis compleat with swimming hole. Allow 4 hours plus lunch, for the whole works.
Mulaje and Bahia Concepcion Ninety miles North of Loreto is the town of Mulaje and Conception Bay. The Bay is 12 miles long and 5 miles wide and has some really pretty beachs and camp grounds. Order a picnic lunch from the Hotel or plan to eat in Mulaje at one of the many resturants or Hotels. The Mission in Mulaje sits on a hill at the side of the Mulaje river over looking ten thousand palm trees. It's a two hour drive each way plus stops and lunch, so plan all day. You will get a good feeling for the Baja Peninsula. Bring your camera, swimsuit, towel something to drink and snacks.
Mission San Javiar This is a trip in a time machine. The Mission is located about 25 miles East of Loreto on a dirt road that climbs high into the Mountians of the the Sierra Gigantica. The town of San Javiar,population 150, is about two blocks long and is located in a steep sided mountian valley. The Mission is in almost perfect shape and gives the feeling of the Colonials in The New World.. The Hotel can arrange a tour which is the best way to get there. You dont need 4 wheel drive but the road is very rough and it slow going in a car. Its about a 2 hour and 30 minute trip each way.
Puerto Escondito and Juncalito Puerto Escondito is a natural harbor about ten miles south of the Eden Hotel. Twenty years ago this was Paridise. Today the Mexican Government has left much of Escondito in ruin from many failed developments. This spot is a favorite for sailors looking for a safe place to spend the summer hurrican season. I have seen as many as two hundred yachts anchored in the lagoon. The cement quay left by the Navy at the narrow entrance has normally clear water and lots of fish. This has always been a fun place to snorkel in about 25 feet of water. Watch for boat traffic. On the opposite bank, known as the waiting room, is a mangroove shoreline. Juncalito, pronounced HUNK- A-LEE-DO is a broad white sand beach at the Northern end of Puerto Escondito facing the Sea of Cortez. It has a large colony of campers and has been a good beach for diving and sunbathing. Driving time allow half a hour each way, plus beach time,
Whale Watching in the Pacific Ocean Lagoons This is the trip folks come around the world to do. Arrange through the Hotel. Plan to spend two Hours on a bus each way. They will take you accross the Peninsula to San Carlos,on the Pacific Ocean, load you into small boats called "Pangas" and out into the Desert Lagoons to see the California Grey Whales who spend the winters here to have their calfs. The whales are normally docile and you can get real close. There is a lot of controversy today about this practice. Conservationist belive the whales should be left alone. The Mexican Goverment likes the development and argues that the Grey Whales have made a major comeback, and the tourist do not harm the whales enviorment. You will have to make your own decision, but it is the thrill of a lifetime.
Cave Paintings, Santa Rosalia, and San Ignacio This is another all day trip North to the central plain to see the Petroglifs. Along the way is my favorite Baja town, San Ignacio and the Copper mining town of Santa Rosalia. In Santa Rosalia, Highway One goes throught the middle of the copper smelter. The town is divided into the Mexican Mesa and the French Mesa as a reminder of the French Company that developed the Mine. The steel chuch in the center of town was designed by Eifel of Tower fame. There are several Hotels in Santa Rosalia, but I havn't found any I could reccomend.

Thirty nine miles to the the north is the beautiful little town of San Ignacio. I have heard more people tell me that this is their favorite town on the entire Baja peninsula. It is my favorite. San Ignacio has a beautiful Colonial Church, classic town square in the shade of huge oak trees and a good sized lake surrounded by thousands of palm trees. There is a La Pinta Hotel with a very good dining room at the entrance to town. Reservations are a must most of the year and can be made from any La Pinta hotel on the peninsula. The cave paintings are located in the desert about one and a half hours from San Ignacio. Spectacular desert scenery and dusty dirt roads lead you to the giant pictographs. The turn offs from Highway one are marked or you can book a taxi tour from the La Pinta Hotel.

Questions? e-mail me at Lexusbob@aol.com

Links to other sites on the Web

Return to Baja Bobs Home Page

This page hosted by Get your own Free Home Page