Carnival in Trinidad
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Trinidad's Carnival is
a big event, and easy for just about anyone to take an active part! Carnival itself
is on the three days before Ash Wednesday, but the lead-up starts just after
Christmas. There are pan yards preparing for competitions, "mas"
(masquerade) camps making elaborate costumes, and the endless fetes (parties).
The music of Carnival
is an important part of the celebrations. The music ranges from Calypso and Soca to
the steel Pan. For weeks on end there are competitions and concerts. We especially
enjoyed going to the pan yards and listening to them practice. Being in a pan yard
with 40-50 pans being played around you is awesome.
To learn a little of
the history of Carnival, we attended some pre-carnival seminars put on at the Marina.
The seminars are planned for the cruising community to help us understand what
Carnival is all about - both by lively talks and performances. One seminar was the
history of traditional characters like the Sailors, Indians, Devils , and Moko
Jumbies.
 oko jumbies are characters that
walk on stilts up to 20 feet in the air. Some of our fellow cruisers went to
moko-jumbie training and walked down the streets of Port of Spain on these stilts.
At carnival, we watched a group of young children that are moko jumbies. The really
little children are on short stilts (3-4 feet), but considering they are only 2 feet tall
themselves, that is really something....
The Sailor characters are based on
the American sailors that staffed the US bases in Trinidad during World War II and
includes the fancy sailors, which depict of the officers; the stokers, which depict
the firemen that used to stoke the coal engines; and the drunken sailors . The costumes
are always brightly colored. The picture on the right is of the fancy sailors.
These characters have canes and pipes and do a slow half-dance/ half-walk down the
road.
The Devil characters range from people painting their bodies red or blue and dancing
down the streets, to ornate traditional devil costumes. The picture on the left if
of the traditional devil costumes. The ornate devil in this costume is a 75 year old
man and has been playing this character for years. The painted devils are younger
kids who smear red and blue paint on their bodies and ignite flames from their mouth by
putting lighter fluid in their mouths and igniting it when they blow it out.
CRAZY. Later you'll see pictures of us painted blue when we dressed as "Blue
Devils" to participate in J'Ouvert, but there was no flame throwing in our group!!.
instrals are another character from Old-Time
carnival. Minstrels wander the streets singing traditional American folk songs and
calypso songs. At times, the sing parodies of American fold songs. Their faces
are painted white. The carnival seminars explained that these are a representation
of what went on in prior days when white folks pretended to be black folks during carnival
season. This is an interesting twist, however, these were black folks playing
white folks who are playing black folks.
At Viey La Cou, a celebration
of past carnival costumes, we saw many of the old time costumes. There was even one
that depicted a traditional wedding ceremony. The wedding party consisted of the
bride and groom and their attendants. The attendants had special functions.
One carried a breadfruit, which symbolized the brides fertility. Another carried new
sheets that were a symbol of her virginity (and were later inspected to insure she
actually was a virgin). The wedding party strolled down the road in a semi-dance
step.
Kiddie Carnival
 arnival is
for all ages. Kiddie Carnival is a big deal in Trinidad, with no child too
small to participate. It is not uncommon to see parents walking down the street at
Kiddie Carnival holding a baby all dressed up in an elaborate costume. Often the
parent and child are dressed in matching costumes. Photo opportunities always
present themselves at Kiddie Carnival -- just walk up to a cute little one and the proud
parents are the first ones to have them turn and smile for the camera.
The costumes are amazing --
gold,glitter, and bight colors abound. Check out the glasses on the little one
in the green and yellow costume. You can see hours of work and a lot of pride
everywhere. It is an all-day event with huge groups of kids dancing up and
down the streets of Port of Spain. Music is blasting, people are dancing, and the
enthusiasm is contagious.
The carnival festivities are well organized, and for the cruising community, there are
several tour organizers that provide a list of the available activities and will take care
of getting tickets and arrange transportation. There are three levels of competition
(preliminary, semi-final and final) for every category of event -- steel pan, soca,
calypso, as well as costumes for king and queen of Carnival. You name it, they'll
have a competition for it and parties to celebrate it. In all, an amazing spectacle.
It is easy to be a part of Carnival, either as a spectator or as a participant
J'Ouvert
. e
played mas ... .J'Ouvert (which means "daybreak") is
the all night-long party that officially kicks off the three-day Carnival Holiday.
People get in all types of crazy costumes party through the streets of Port
of Spain until dawn! These cosmos are not the fancy costumes of the formal
Carnival, but it is the very soul of Carnival. We joined
some of our cruising friends in the J'Ouvert band "Blue Devils". We wore
horns, a spiked tail, and carried a pitch-fork as we danced behind a huge flat-bed truck
of enormous speakers blasting music so loud you can feel it in your body. Behind the
music truck is the drink truck that party-goers frequent through out the night.
Our event started early in the day when we met aboard Sequel for a breakfast with our
fellow devils. We feasted on quiche, lots of fresh fruit, breads, and coffee.
For some, the day started with Bloody-marys, but Allen and I decided to survive until
night time.... Then it was up to the shop to "decorate" or costumes.
Out came the glitter, the glow-in-the-dark paint, and some creative devil horns
were the result. A nap was next on the agenda to prepare for the big night.
Starting a party at 11pm was not something we've done before.
We got up at 11pm, donned our costumes (horns, tail and fork) then met at the pre-party
location. There we "added" to
our costumes by applying liberal amounts of red, blue and white mud! Mud is a
big thing in J'Ouvert. It's a cheap "costume". Cheryl
ended up with a drum (really a large biscuit tin and a stick to beat it with) ... It turns
out everyone wants to play the drum, even if you are carrying it. People are
constantly coming by to "play the drum" with you!
e danced down
the streets from midnight until 7am. Somewhere near morning we had a big
display when we trooped across the stage for the TV cameras. We hear our group came
in second, but how you judge group-after-group of mud-smeared party goers and decide who
wins is beyond our imagination. It was amazing to watch hundreds of people
dance down the streets.
The
last hour we were all dragging. We still managed smiles as we sat on the curb
and waited for our maxi to take us back to the marina. We arrived back at the marina
and used hoses on the docks to rinse off most of the mud. Our clothes were beyond
hope and were the first things in the trash can. Then a hot shower below decks to
get the rest of the mud and then a comfortable bed for us footsore and weary Carnival
participants.
fter J'Ouvert, we
slept most of the following day! So much for any events on Monday ... some party all three
days. Even Tuesday, our big plans to go into town for the big finale, the Parade of Bands,
didn't make it. It was hot, we were tired, and we have a TV with 66 channels at this
marina. So it was sit back, put our tired feet up, and watch the Parade of Bands.
n all, Carnival is an
amazing spectacle. You cannot capture in words or in pictures the mass of humanity
that gets involved in Carnival. Bands with hundreds...as in 600-700 per band
...all in costumes of feathers, bangles, beads and a few swaths of colorful cloth... dance
enthusiastically to one of the carnival tunes that play all day long! Each participant
buys their costume from the mas camp for about $40-50 US, which include drinks along the
way. The costumes speak to a wild sexy glamour, and amazingly make almost all the
participants look relatively glamorous. Anyone can join these bands, and many cruisers did
take part. Just being able to watch the event is amazing ... regardless of how much
you participate.
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