On the Sunday that the new Maria Valeria Bridge was officially opened and blessed we crossed it early before the crowds and had our passports stamped by the Slovakian officials. This bridge over the Danube had only just been rebuilt after its destruction during World War II so the celebrations would be big.
As we biked off, a young policeman stopped us with a big smile. He was the first of many friendly helpful Slovakians we encountered on our short trip through their country. We were amazed at how well the young people spoke English and how keen they were to chat with us. In neither Hungary or the Czech republic did we encounter the same friendliness.
Guide Books and Maps
Lonely Planet's Czech and Slovak Republics 3rd Edition (March 2001). .
Lonely Planet's Eastern Europe Phrase Book.
Czech and Slovak Republics (1:500 000) Map Freitag-Berndt.
In the Czech Republic a series of excellent Tourist Maps (1:100 000) Turistické Mapy produced by Shocart Kartography 2000 are available. They show all long distance hiking and cycling routes. See http://www.geoclub.cz
The Ride:
The route we chose made for easy and pleasant biking through farming lands and small villages. The villages had no particular charm but we enjoyed the gardens which surrounded the houses. Everyone grows masses of vegetables and a stunning variety of irises of all colours were at their best while we were there.
Many of the older towns had been beautifully and lovingly renovated and were a delight to visit. The small town of Telc should not be missed. South of Prague, the castles set in rugged landscapes are a major attraction.
The Road:
We chose minor roads where possible. They were usually good with light traffic only. We also avoided the hassle of cycling into Prague by leaving the tandem in a small town about one and half hours by train out of the city. We were pleased with this arrangement and it reduced the hassle factor considerably!
Accommodation.
As in Hungary it is possible to stay in private homes. Pensions are reasonable. We never had any problem finding a place to stay.
Route Description.
Day 1: Stúrovo to Nitra (96 km)
We took the road north west to Nové Zámky joining Route 64 eight km before the town and on to Nitra. We had a good tail wind to get us through the flat uninteresting countryside.
Day 2: Nitra to Novy Mesto (75 km) .
We set of north west to Hlohovec where we crossed the river, then turning north through Leopoldov joining Route 61 at Madunice and the north to N. Mesto.
Day 3: N. Mesto to Hodonin in the Czech Republic. (77 km) .
North west out of town onto Route 54 to the border. After the border some steep climbs and then down hill to Vaseli to join route 55 to Hodonin. It was Sunday and families were out biking, we saw a woman in traditional costume and a man cycling on a penny farthing! Pretty countryside.
Day 4: Hodonin to Znojmo (100 km) .
Route 55 to Breclav, route 40 to Mikulov and then cross country via Litobratice on minor road 414 to Route 53 and on into Znojmo.
We had no problem as everything was well signposted. Very attractive countryside, imposing castles at Valtice and Mikulov. The main roads were busy.
Day 5: Znojmo to Telc (78 km) .
We biked out on route 38 and then turned off left and west on 408 to Dacice. From there we took a minor road east of the river instead of 406 to Telc. We were now in the Moravian highlands with lots of steep climbs and descents. The small towns all had delightful Gothic centres but Telc surpassed them all.
Day 6: Telc to Košetice (60 km) .
Route 112 out of Telc through Pelhrimo, another charming town, to the village of Košetice where we found a small rural hotel about two km out of the village by a small pond. A beautiful hilly area again with many steep little climbs.
Day 7: Košetice to Benešov (48 km) .
We continued on route 112 to this town which is home to one of the fine Czech castles, Konopište We also used it as a base leaving the tandem in the hotel and taking the train into Prague for two days, avoiding the hassles of city cycling.
Day 8: Benešov to Beroun (90 km) .
This was a very complicated cross country ride south of Prague. Benešov to Stechovice on 106 climbing up and then down to cross a river at Kamenny. Then another. climb high above both rivers for beautiful views and down again to cross the Moldau on its way to Prague at Štechovice . We followed the Moldau along its west bank to the town of Komorany. We crossed the Becoup River in a mass of roadworks and bridge building following the signs to Karlstein Castle and then on into Beroun.
Day 9: Beroun to Plzen (72 km) .
Route 406 all the way weaving on either side of the motorway. Attractive hilly countryside made for some steep climbs.
Day 10: Plzen to German border and on to Roding (120)
A very long day because the German town of Cham had no suitable accommadation for us. It was a public holiday in Germany. Route 20 to the border was a narrow busy road. In Germany we had to use minor roads as 20 became a motorway after the border.
Two days and 150 kms later we arrived at Munich International airport for our flight home. We were very impressed with the Left-luggage at the airport. They stored the fully laden tandem for three days while we took the train to visit relatives in Zurich. We did not even need to unload the bike!
Through Hungary
The Delights of the Danube
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