John Fowler & Co running instructions, if you are thinking of getting one, it’s a lot easier to turn an ignition key to a truck, and cleaner, but not as much fun !

STARTING AND RUNNING

Before Lighting Fire.-See that water is showing in the gauge glass and test the water gauge to make sure that this is showing the correct level. Sweep out tubes and smokebox. (This should be done regularly every day before starting work.) Attend to any leaky fittings.  

Raising Steam.-The steam jet in the chimney should be used with discretion. Its too frequent use may cause the boiler tubes to leak. See that the smokebox door is tightly shut.  

Before Starting, see that all moving parts are properly lubricated and all oil cups and cylinder lubricator filled. Make a practice while oiling up of inspecting all bolts, nuts, and other parts which may shake loose. The early discovery of faults of this kind saves many breakdowns.  

Feed Pump, Injector and Water-gauge Cocks. These should all be tried before starting to see that they are in working order, the joints tight and valves working freely.  

Starting.-With Compound Engines, if the crank is not in the right position for starting either in forward or reverse gear, the auxiliary starting valve is used to admit steam to the low-pressure cylinder. Care should be taken not to keep this valve open longer than necessary, and it should only be used for starting purposes.  

With Single Cylinder Engines,

If the crank is on the dead center and will not start in either forward or reverse gear, the flywheel must be turned by hand to bring it into the correct position. This operation must be carried out with great care and with cylinder cocks open, as if there is any steam in the  chest the engine is liable to start away quickly when moved off the dead centre.  

Before putting in the road gear run the engine round slowly to see that everything is in working order and running freely.  

Standing.-When the engine is standing the reversing lever should always be left in the “mid” position.  

Changing Gear.-When putting the gear into mesh, see that the lever is moved right over so the teeth are fully engaged, and always put the safety-pin into its place so that the gear cannot disengage itself.  

Never change gear on a hill if possible, and where it is absolutely necessary to do this see that the road wheels are properly "scotched" up before taking the engine out of gear.

  Water Level.-The correct working level of the water in the gauge glass is shown by a plate on the firebox front. The water level must be carefully watched and kept approximately to this level by the pump and injector  

Both top and bottom water-gauge cocks should be blown through from time to time, to see that they are quite free and register a true water level. This is done by opening the two cocks alternately and letting steam blow through the drain cock.

  If the water-gauge glass breaks and cannot be immediately replaced, the water level can be ascertained by the use of the two try-cocks on the firebox front. The level of the water is obtained roughly by opening these for a moment to see whether steam or water is blown out.  

If the water level falls below the gauge glass there is a risk that the top of the firebox will become uncovered and get overheated. If this occurs the plates are liable to become damaged through overheating and the fusible safety plug in the firebox will melt and allow steam to blow out the fire.  

Special attention should be given to the water level on hills. When going up hill the level rises above the top of the gauge glass, but, in spite of this water should be fed into the boiler to replace that used up in steam, as it is advisable to keep the level up high enough to cover the front end of the boiler tubes and prevent them from getting overheated

  When going down hill the boiler must be filled up sufficiently to keep the water level above the top of the firebox. The fire should be kept low to avoid blowing off. The engine must be kept in gear and the reversing lever used to control the speed of the engine.  

Firing-up.-A thin, bright fire should be kept for good steaming, and care taken to see that it is burning over the whole area of the grate-particularly round the sides. If any holes are left where the fire is not burning, it allows cold air to come in which interferes with steaming and is liable to make the tubes leak. Firing-up should be done in small quantities at a time and in accordance with the work the engine is doing. Too much smoke means bad firing and waste of fuel, and should be avoided.  

Keep the fire thin by poking ashes through into the ashpan from time to time. After doing this, do not fail to rake the ashes out of the ashpan, as if left in they may go on burning and melt the firebars.  

The ashpan damper can be used to control the draught, and also if pressure gets too high the firehole can be slightly opened, although this latter practice is not one to be employed while the engine is working, as it allows cold air to be drawn in directly on to the tubes and may cause leakage. The engine should not be allowed to blow off frequently nor should the pressure be allowed to drop too far below the working figures. Both of these effects give inefficient consumption and are signs of a poor driver.

  Lubrication.-Periodical attention should be given

to all bearings and working parts while at work, to see that everything is properly lubricated and that nothing is getting overheated.  

Water Supply.-The level of water in the tank should be watched and arrangements made for replenishment in plenty of time so that the roller is not forced to stop work for lack of water.  

Driving Pins.-For Rollers not fitted with differential gear it is advisable to remove the driving pin of the inner wheel when turning a corner. For ordinary rolling work both driving pins should be put in, as driving on one wheel only causes undue wear on that side.  

Rolling.-Always use the slow gear when rolling, keeping the fast gear for moving from place to place.  

Rolling on Hills.-When rolling steep hills special care must be taken in driving to avoid slipping. Steel-plated or cast-steel wheels give a better grip than cast-iron wheels and are recommended in hilly country.  

When hills are too steep to roll upwards without pushing the road metal in front of the front roller, the road has to be re-made half at a time, leaving the unmetalled half of the road for the roller to run up on.  

Completion of Day's Work.-When the roller is required for work on the following day, the fire may be banked up so as to keep the boiler warm and save time in getting up steam again in the morning. To do this the steam pressure should be brought right down and the boiler filled well up with water. The ashpan damper and firehole door should be closed and a plate put over the top of the chimney.  

Frost.-In frosty weather all pipes should he emptied of water to prevent freezing. If the engine has to stand in the open for some time, in winter, the boiler and tank should be emptied and all water emptied out of pipes, feed pumps, &c.

COMMON TROUBLES EXPERIENCED WITH STEAM ROLLERS  

Priming, or the drawing of water into the cylinders together with the steam, is caused generally by dirty water in the boiler, and means that it requires washing out. It also occurs sometimes if the water level in the boiler gets too high.  

When the engine begins to prime, the regulator must be throttled down at once and the cylinder cocks opened to allow surplus water to get out of the cylinders. Failure to do this may cause the cylinder covers to be blown off.  

Overheated Bearings.-Provided that bearings are properly lubricated there is no reason why they should run hot. It may be, however, that by the introduction of dirt or by too tight adjustment, a bearing will begin to run hot, and it then requires immediate and careful attention from the driver to prevent damage and further trouble. If adjusted too tight, the bearing should be at once slacked off, but not so much as to make it knock.

  The use of heavy cylinder oil instead of ordinary oil, and the addition of some graphite or sulphur to the oil, all help to prevent overheating.  

If the overheating is allowed to continue the brass in the bearing will begin to cut, destroying the surface of the bush, and once that has occurred satisfactory results will not be obtained until the bush is taken out and scraped up and refitted to the journal.  

If the Injector fails to work.-The driver should see to the following points, any of which may prevent it from operating  

1.         That there is water in the tank.

2.         That the tank strainer is not choked.

3.         That all joints and pipe couplings are tight, particularly on the suction pipe.

4.         That the injector cones are not partially blocked by grit and other foreign matter.

5.         That no steam leaks from the check valves in the boiler clack box or the injector steam valve. A hot injector will not work.

Broken Gauge Glass.-Shut off top and bottom water-gauge cocks and fit a new glass. If no spare gauge glass is available, test water level from time to time with the try-cocks, until a new glass is available.

In renewing gauge glass see that the rubber washers are not screwed down too tight. Should there be a slight leakage of steam at first, the rubber will soon expand with the heat and make a tight joint.

Warm the glass gradually by opening the top cock slightly and allowing the steam to blow through the glass, before allowing the full boiler pressure to come on to it, otherwise the glass will again break.

Boiler not Steaming properly or using too much Fuel :-

1.         Boiler may be dirty and require washing out.

2.         Smokebox door may be drawing air, thus spoiling the draught.

3.         Exhaust nozzle may be furred up.

4.         Fire may be clinkered up or requires cleaning.

5.         Ashpan may be full of ashes, and require cleaning out.

Give these points careful attention, and if any fault is found, rectify immediately.

LUBRICATION

  Lubricating Oil for Fowler Engines

  To get the best results from our engines it is essential that the right types of lubricating oils be used- Excessive wear and tear, and unnecessary expenditure in duplicate parts is the natural result from the use of inferior oil. We have come across so many cases in which our customers were being put to unnecessary expense on this account, that we have decided to investigate the question of oils ourselves. After careful trial and extended tests under working conditions, we have found a reliable series of oils which can he offered at a reasonable price, and we have therefore arranged with the makers to put these brands on the market as SPECIAL FOWLER LUBRICATION OILS which we recommend our customers to use in our engines.

Lubricating Oils.-The continued efficiency of an engine depends to a great degree on efficient lubrication and the use of good quality oil.  

The best heavy quality steam engine cylinder oil should be used for the cylinders. This oil must he distinguished from motor cylinder oil, which is made to work at much higher temperatures and is much more expensive.  

For all bearings and moving parts, ordinary machinery oil is suitable, it being often advisable to use a rather heavier oil in summer than in winter. We always keep a stock of both cylinder and machinery oil of good quality, at reasonable prices, and are pleased to supply the requirements of our customers at all times at short notice.

Consumption.-For an ordinary day's work the consumption of a 10-Ton Roller may be taken at about 1 pint of cylinder oil and 1 pint of engine oil. Other types of Rollers will use rather more or less than this, according to size.  

Running in a New Roller.-It is the greatest mistake to try and economise oil too much at the expense of the bearings of a Roller. This is especially the case when the machine is new and bearings not properly run in.  

MECHANICAL LUBRICATOR  

In addition to the driving lever worked from the valve spindle, these lubricators are fitted with handles for hand-pumping the oil into the cylinder. It is advisable that, every morning before starting work, a certain amount of oil be pumped by hand into the cylinder to make sure that it doesn't start entirely unlubricated.  

The amount of oil being delivered can be controlled by the regulating screw shown in the illustration and observed by opening the test valve.  

When first starting the lubricator, it should be worked by hand with the test valve open until oil comes out, and then the plug in the top of the check valve Should he removed and pumping continued till oil comes out at this point.  

In this way it is ensured that no air-lock or obstruction is preventing the delivery of oil.

  Displacement Lubricator.--To fill lubricator, first unscrew the drain screw "D" to allow condensed water to be blown out. Then unscrew the cap "F"  and fill with oil after replacing the drain screw "D"

  When the cap is replaced it presses down the central spindle and re-opens the valve " V," which admits steam to the top of the lubricator and drives the oil down the pipe by displacement. The oil-feed can be regulated by adjustment of the screw "A," which regulates the opening of the valve "V." The greater the opening of the valve, the more quickly does the oil run into the cylinder.  

General Lubrication.-For general lubrication of the engine ordinary machinery oil is quite satisfactory.

  When oiling-up the Roller it is advisable to have a regular sequence to keep to, as in this way there is no risk of anything being forgotten. A common method is to start from the footplate and oil hind axle bearings, third motion, second motion, and crankshaft bearings on each side, pump plunger, eccentric straps, road gear change speed forks.

Then crankshaft big and little ends, crosshead guides, link motion, weighbar shaft, and valve spindle guides should be oiled and cylinder lubricator filled up. It is common practice to put a drop of oil on piston and valve rods and regulator spindle to make them run easily in the glands. The following have to be, oiled from the ground: The hind road wheels, winding forward drum and differential gear (if fitted), steerage shaft and worm, front roller bushes and forecarriage head.  

Grease must be applied to all gearing from time to time to keep it well lubricated and prevent undue wear.

  Worsted Trimmings.---All oil caps should be fitted with worsted trimmings tied up with copper wire for syphoning the oil out of the cup into the bearing. The con5un!ption of oil is regulated by the amount of worsted fitted, provided that it is not so tight as to choke the oil pipe.  

To save oil, all trimmings should be taken out when the engine is stopped.  

Big Ends.-As the big ends are constantly rotating when at work, there is no need to syphon the oil into the pipe. For these oil cups, short worsted trimmings only are required in the oil pipe itself. leaving about 1-inch of pipe clear above the top of the trimming. This ensures that oil passes through to the bearing only when the engine is running.

POINTS REQUIRING PERIODICAL ATTENTION

Washing Out Boiler.-It is advisable to wash out the boiler every week. The life of the boiler and fire-box, and freedom from leaking tube plates, depends largely on this being carried out thoroughly and regularly. To clean the water spaces round the firebox, mudholes are provided immediately above the foundation ring, and additional mud plugs are provided in the smokebox for cleaning out the boiler barrel, and above the firehole door for cleaning the top of the firebox. A strong force of water should be used from a force pump or hydrant, and a cleaning rod for loosening scale, care being taken not to damage the threads in the plug holes. Every possible care must be taken to remove all mud or deposit from the firebox plates, firebox crown, stays and corners.  

The boiler must not he blown off at a pressure of over 10 lbs. or filled with cold water while hot. It is advisable when the Roller comes in at night to allow it to cool down, so that it will he ready for cleaning in the morning.

  Cleaning Inside of Boiler.--The manhole in side of boiler barrel should have its cover removed twice a year, so that the inside of boiler can be examined

  Fusible Plug.-This should be examined when washing out to see that it is clean, so that the lead core is free to melt if the water level gets too low. Failure to attend to this introduces risk of boiler explosions.   The plug should be renewed every six months.

  Washing Out Tank.----If the water used is muddy a considerable amount of dirt will collect in the tank, causing stoppages in the feed-water pipe injector, &c., and making the boiler become dirty too quickly. This can be washed out when necessary by removing the hand-hole cover at the bottom of the tank.  

Tubes.-If tubes leak badly a tube expander must be used to expand them in the tube plate. When the tubes become old and have been expanded several times, further use of the expander does little good and ferrules are driven into them to keep them tight.  

Exhaust Pipe.-This must be kept clean and all carbon deposit cleaned out at intervals to avoid back-pressure in the cylinders.  

Boiler Scale.-If certain kinds of hard water are used in boilers, scale is formed on the plates, which injures the steaming capacity, and if allowed to get thick it is liable to cause overheating of the plates with serious results. Great care must be taken when washing out to remove scale., but if this cannot he done, a suitable boiler compound should be employed to remove it. In cases of difficulty we are always pleased to advise users of our Rollers on the best boiler compounds to use for different conditions.

  Packing Glands.-There are many different packing materials on the market, all of which are very satisfactory. On engines sent out from the Steam Plough Works, piston and valve rod glands are packed with "Silverite" metallic packing. On engines packed for export the packing is taken out of all the glands to avoid risk of rusting and pitting. A supply of "Silverite" is sent out with these engines for re-packing the glands on re-erection.

  We keep supplies of " Silverite" packing in our Works, and are always ready to supply our customers with the least possible delay.

  For regulator glands we prefer to use thick asbestos packing, while pump suction and delivery pipe glands are best packed with spun yarn.  

Setting Slide Valves.-.---All engines leaving the Works have the slide valves correctly set. After the crankshaft brasses and eccentric straps have been adjusted for wear, the valves may require re-setting. Incorrect valve setting may easily be noticed by the uneven blast of the exhaust steam in the chimney.  

To Correctly Set the Slide Valve when the Boiler is Cold.-Put the reversing lever in the " full forward" gear and the corresponding crank on the "dead centre" at each end of the stroke, turning the engine alternately in the running direction of the engine, for that position of the reversing lever, adjust the position of the slide valve on its spindle so as to give an equal port opening at each " dead centre" of the crank.  

Repeat these operations with the reversing lever in the "full back gear," again turning the crank in the correct running direction for that position of the reversing lever.  

If the slide valve is correctly set, the port openings will be the same as in the "full forward gear."  

If not, the eccentric rod must be lengthened or shortened to obtain this.  

To allow for the expansion of the boiler when steam is up, screw the valve spindle outwards two complete turns-this will lengthen the distance between the valve and the crankshaft and give correct valve openings under working conditions.  

Replacing Steam-Chest Cover.-A spare joint ring cover should be available before the steam-chest cover is removed. Care must be taken in replacing the cover, to tighten the nuts evenly all round. Start with the middle nuts on each side and tighten one by one towards the corners. When steam is got up again and the cylinder gets warm, these nuts will have to be tightened up again.  

Cylinder Joints.-To make a joint, proceed as follows: Clean the faces well and smear with a mixture of boiled oil and black lead: this should be well mixed and spread thinly, care being taken that the whole faces are coated; on this lay the asbestos jointing material, which should also be smeared on both sides with the same mixture. The cover can now be replaced and secured and the joints warmed through, and finally all the nuts well tightened. When removing the cover, care must be taken not to break the jointing sheet when inserting a tool – a thin chisel is best: the jointing sheet may be removed by inserting a knife between the face and the sheet, care being taken not to damage the material. The joint can thus be re-made several times, using the same sheeting, it being only necessary to apply the black lead and boiled oil each time on the faces and jointing material.

  The cylinder joints should be made with asbestos sheeting, and the joints should be warmed through before the nuts are finally tightened up.  

Adjusting Brasses.-Any wear of brasses should be taken up at the earliest opportunity to avoid knocking, but after adjustment special care should be taken to avoid overheating. Connecting rod brasses should be fitted to bear on the centre of the brass only and to clear at the sides. The brasses should he let up solid, brass to brass, but to avoid risk of heating they should then he slightly opened leaving a gap about the thickness of a piece of tin, but not to allow any knocking. This adjustment can be made after the brasses have been fitted up again by gently tapping back the cotter pin with a hammer. Care should be taken to see that oil holes are free and not stopped up.

Pistons.-Steam blowing past the piston rings is indicated by an irregular exhaust. The piston rings should be taken out and cleaned from time to time, and, if worn, replaced by new ones.  

To Test for Steam leaking past the Pistons.- The cylinder cocks must be disconnected, and, if the engine is a single-cylinder one, the crank must be put on the " dead centre " nearest to the driver, the reversing lever put in the " forward gear " and the front cylinder cock opened. On gently opening the regulator, if the piston rings are leaking, steam will come out of the open cylinder cock. If the piston rings are tight, little or no steam will appear.

  The operation should then be repeated for the opposite end of the cylinder as a check,

  With a compound engine the procedure is similar, but for the low-pressure cylinder the starting cock is used to introduce the steam instead of the regulator.

Injector.-The standard type of injector fitted is the Penberthy. With hard water a deposit is sometimes formed on the cones Of the injector, and it will not work properly until these are taken out and cleaned.  

When injector cones get worn with use they cause a continuous dribble from the overflow while working. They should then be renewed to avoid further  trouble

  Boiler Clackboxes.-The design of the Fowler twin-valve clackbox is shown in the accompanying illustration. When any signs of leaking past the valves are evident, the first opportunity should be taken of regrinding the seatings. The bottom valve can be uncoupled and reground while the boiler is under steam, provided that the top valve is tight. The milled head screw A' is fitted to test whether the top valve is tight before uncoupling the joint at any time.  

Feed Pump.-See that the strainer is free from dirt, and that all pipes, joints and couplings are tight. Take out the valves occasionally and clean them. Always tighten gland nuts up equally to ensure plunger working freely; keep the pump plunger well oiled, as the pump is always in gear. If there is an air lock in the pump, open and close the pet cock repeatedly to allow the air to escape. Opening of this, cock will also show if the pump is working. Keep pump barrel cool, as if it is too hot the pump will not work.

  End-Play on Hind Axles.-If too much end-play on hind axle is allowed, unnecessary wearing of the gear and bushes is caused. Steel washers should be inserted as soon as the end-play becomes excessive.  

Removal of Driving Plate.--Should the driving plate have to be removed to insert the washers, this can be done by taking off the hind wheel and screwing two steel bolts----screwed at both ends----into holes provided in the driving plate. A steel plate must be

placed across the end of the axle, through which these bolts pass. If the bolts, when tightened up, do not move the driving plate, a " jack" should be placed between the end of the axle and the plate, and a steady pressure exerted. A few smart blows with a heavy hammer on the driving plate while the pressure is being exerted will probably start the plate to move.  

Steerage.--Do not allow the steerage chains to get too slack, as this is liable to cause breakages on rough roads.  

The steerage spindle is specially fitted with ball thrust washers to give easy steerage, and care should be taken to keep these clean as well as the bearings on the steerage cross-shaft

HOW TO ECONOMISE FUEL AND WATER

We have drawn up the following notes to help our customers to obtain the best possible results and, in addition, we are always ready to give any assistance that we can to make sure that the best possible performances are obtained.  

If you are not perfectly satisfied, send us particulars of the work you are doing and the consumption obtained, and we shall be pleased to give you all the help that we can, either by letter or by sending one of our experts or mechanics to inspect your roller.  

Even if you are satisfied with the results you are getting; there may be room for improvement. Send us your consumption figures and ask for our opinion.  

Points that must have attention to obtain economy

BOILER

1.                   Tubes must be carefully and thoroughly cleaned out daily. Soot in the tubes prevents the heat from the fire passing through the tubes to the water

2.                   Careful washing out at regular intervals.- Don’t forget that if dirty water is being used the tank should be cleaned as well as the boiler. A dirty boiler wastes water priming, while if scale is allowed to form it prevents the proper transference of heat.

3.                   Banking up at night.- This is more economical both in time and fuel than relighting the fire every day, and further it throws les strain on the plates of firebox and boiler by keeping them at a more even temperature

FIREBOX

  4.                   Ashpan.- Keep tightly fixed to the bottom of the boiler so that air cannot enter except through the door. Cold air entering the firebox all round the foundation ring cools the plates and reduces the production of steam.

Keep the ashpan free of ashes to give a free draught for the fire

5.                   Keep the fire bars clean, so that an even draught is produced all over the grate. Dead areas in the fire mean bad combustion and bad steaming.

6.                   A thin even fire well filled at the sides ensures that all fuel is completely burnt and that no cold air gets through to the tubes. Cold air is especially injurious at the sides of the fire, where it cools the plates and causes uneven expansion.

7.                   Keep the firehole door shut as much as possible. While the engine is running an open door spoils the draught through the fire, and also the cold air introduced is liable to make the tubes leak.

SMOKEBOX

8.                   Smokebox door must always be shut tight and kept as air tight as possible. This is most important, as any leakage of air at this point spoils the draught at once.

9.                   Keep exhaust nozzle clean.- When this is furred up it sets up back pressure in the cylinders, which spoil efficiency and also causes excessive draught on the fire. This is a frequent cause of bad steaming and loss of power.

Both of these points will spoil the efficiency and consumption of the machine if not properly watched

CYLINDERS

10.        The Safety Valves should Blow Off as little as possible.-With careful driving it is quite easy to run a steam roller for  long periods without wasting fuel and water through the safety valves. All that is necessary is attention in firing up and in using pump or injector to keep the correct steam pressure. The use of the ashpan damper for regulating the heat of the fire should not be overlooked.

11.     Valves properly Set to give absolutely even distribution of steam.

12.     Piston Rings a Good Fit and in Good Condition.---It is waste of money to continue running an engine with worn-out slide valves or piston rings, owing to both the waste of fuel and power and the chance of damage to cylinder liners and valve faces.

13.     All Glands properly Steam Tight.-It is false economy to use anything but the best quality gland packing, and if this is carefully put in, no trouble will be experienced on this account for long periods.

14.     Constant Cylinder Lubrication.-With modern mechanical cylinder lubricators efficient lubrication is simple, and the only care necessary is to see that the pump is working efficiently and that the supply of oil does not run out.

MOTION WORK

15.   All Bearings properly Adjusted and Lubricated.-A sweet-running engine with no knock in the bearings is the daily  Advertisement of a good driver.

This is essential if the highest efficiency is to be obtained from the roller, in order to keep down wear and tear to the lowest possible point.

FOWLER SERVICE

Our interest in the engines does not cease when a roller is delivered and paid for. It is our constant care to see that all the machinery we build is kept in perfect working order and doing the work required of it in the best possible manner, and we are always ready to assist our customers to attain this object in every way we can.

Spare Parts.-We have large stocks of spare parts always on hand at our Works in Leeds, to meet the needs of our customers with the least possible delay.  

All our branch houses in different parts of the World, and many of our Agents also, hold stocks of spare parts for the same purpose.

Our Spare-part Catalogue is supplied free to all owners of our rollers, and gives detailed particulars of every part of the machine so as to avoid risk of mistakes when ordering.

Experienced Workmen for repairing and overhauling our engines can generally be supplied, either for tuning up and generally improving the running efficiency or for carrying out major repairs and overhauls.

  Where extensive Overhauls are necessary on engines of our make in this country, we generally recommend our customers to send them to Leeds for attention, as work can be completed more thoroughly and quickly with the help of machine tools and modern workshop equipment.

  Approximate Estimates for such overhauls and repairs can always be submitted beforehand when required.

  Correspondence We are always pleased to receive letters from our customers telling us of the results they are getting from their engines, and if they are in need of any advice or information we are very glad to supply it and to do everything we can to assist them.

Would you like to try it round the block sir? -----  Phew!

  These Working Instructions Were Originally Produced by John Fowler & Co (Leeds) Ltd late 1920’s  

Me; If my car makes strange noises I turn up the radio and check my AA membership