Assembly (Gluing and Clamping)

- Dry Fitting and Marking
- I dry fit the pieces together to make certain they fit like I want them to. Since I try to cut the sides just a hair thicker than they need to be so they'll fit tightly in their dadoes, I usually have to do a little sanding with 220 grit paper to get them to fit without having to force them. NOTE: if the sides end up being thinner than the width of the dadoes and don't fill the dadoes completely, the call will still sound and work fine as long as the side is glued tightly to the end block. It's a good idea to mark the pieces once their final position has been determined. I call one end "A" and the other "B" and mark the end grain of the base, the outside ends of the sides, and the outside face of the end block so that when glue-up time comes, I don't have to waste valuable time guessing where it's supposed to go.
- Glues and Clamps
- I use ordinary yellow carpenters glue rated for exterior use. I'm sure any reputable brand will work fine. Titebond II is the brand I've used from the beginning. I checked around with a couple of different (and extremely good) callmakers, and found out that they used it as well, although aone did mention that when using oily, more "exotic" woods, he had to use a more "serious" glue, like Gorilla Glue. As far as applying the glue, I use very small, cheap brushes (the kind they sell with kids' paints and stuff at places like Wal-Mart). Here's a tip I picked up somewhere: folks who tie their own flies or jigs for fishing can make a serviceable glue brush by whip-finishing a small clump of deer hair to a toothpick or dowel. I like to use bottle caps to hold small amounts of glue (I used to just squirt a little on the workbench just prior to use, but I kept absent-mindedly setting tools and wood in it).
- Ordinary, inexpensive c-clamps work fine, and that's what I use most often. Small bar clamps, woodworkers screw clamps, and others also work well. I like using c-clamps because while clamping I can gradually increase the pressure on the call until it's exactly what I want, and I can usually find them for just a few cents at garage sales.
- It's a good idea to go ahead and do most or all of the final sanding before assembling the call. I sand all of the surfaces down to 220 or 320, then wipe off all the sawdust, especially out of the dadoes. Once all of the parts have been sanded and cleaned, I do one final dry assembly to make sure everything fits like I want it to. Can't make adjustments once the glue has dried!
- Step 1 - End Blocks to Base
- Because everything needs to fit as tightly and precisely as possible, it's best not to apply all the glue at once since it doesn't yield more than ten minutes of "open" time (time it takes the glue to start drying). So, the first thing I do is glue the end blocks to the base. I simply "paint" or spread the glue on the bottom of the end block, the sides of the end block, and the end of the base where the end block will sit and let the wood absorb whatever amount it will absorb, then apply just a little bit more, just a dab. Then, using wood chips or small pieces of cork to keep from denting or marking the wood, I clamp both end blocks loosely to the base with a 3" c-clamp, tightening the clamp until it begins squeezing the glue out of the joint. NOTE: It's a good idea to keep a slightly damp, absorbent rag on hand to wipe up excess glue. It will stain the wood and show up even more clearly once the finish (if any) has been applied. Make sure the block is perfectly centered between the dadoes and the side faces are aligned precisely as possible with the inside edge of the dadoes. Leave them clamped tightly enough that they won't move unless you intentionally move them.
- Step 2 - Sides
- Once the glue has been applied and the end blocks are clamped to the base, I glue the sides. First, I apply (this is where the small brushes come in handy) glue all along the dado. Then I spread a thin coat on the sides of the end blocks, and the end of the sides where they will be attached to the end blocks. I do this to both sides before proceeding. Using one two or three inch c-clamp for each end of the call, I clamp both sides to the end blocks at once, using wood spacers to again keep the clamp from marking or denting the wood. Since the end blocks are tapered, I use the tapered scraps that were left over after cutting the end blocks by hand--one side is perpindicular and the other side is tapered and complements the taper of the end block. Using four scraps--one at each point where the clamp jaw meets the call--I place the tapered side against the call and the straight side against the clamp jaw. Then I press the sides down firmly into their dadoes and make certain the bottom of the side is seated firmly in bottom of the dadoe before tightening the clamp (I sometimes use stout rubber bands to help hold the sides down so that they're firmly seated in the dadoes). Finally, I make any final adjustments, then firmly tighten the clamps on the blocks (which I left slightly loose for minor adjustments) and the sides. until the joints are tight and the excess glue is squeezed out. Then wipe off the excess glue and let it sit in a cool, dry place where it will be undisturbed for at least an hour. I prefer to let the glue set for a few hours, often overnight, before removing the clamps. Then I let the call sit a while before drilling and attaching the lid. (NOTE: Step 2 can be done immediately following Step 1, or it can be delayed until the glue from Step 1 has completely dried. I usually glue everything up at once.)
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