Cutting and Shaping the Lid

Four lids in various stages of completion.

Cutting the outline and handle: Once the stock for the lid has been milled to the correct thickness, width, and length, I use a wood or cardboard/posterboard pattern to draw the lid's outline on the stock. It's simple enough to just draw and cut freehand, though I like for everything to fit and line up the way I intend, so this helps me insure overall consistency. Then I radius the end of the paddle, in keeping with my overall design theme of rounded over edges and corners. This is practical as well...the rounder the surface edges, the less chance there is some part of the call will snag on clothing or branches at the wrong time.
Some methods for shaping the bottom radius:

Shaper/router table with custom bit(s)
Power sanding with belt sander, sanding station, or other high-speed sander
Hand shaping with chisels, planes, spokeshaves, rasps, files, and sandpaper: Since I don't have access to a production shaper table, and don't always have time during the day to shape on the sander, I shape nearly all of my lids by hand. I also have more success this way...shaping by hand is just a slower process and any mistakes made are typically small and easier to correct.When I first started, it was more of a pain than it is now that I've made a few, and I've come to prefer it. Plus, due to the shape I prefer, all of my handles must be hand carved anyway, so shaping the radius by hand, in comparison, is not any more difficult, and is actually less time consuming than the handles themselves.; My first step is to mark the transition between the handle and the radius; since I make an odd-shaped handle (the bottom is rounded and thicker in the middle than on the sides), I have to be sure I don't accidentally remove too much wood from the handle while shaping the radius. Then I draw a line down the middle of the lid so I always know where the center is. This is particularly important if shaping the radius with hand tools; since the lid should remain thickest down the middle of the radius, I know it will be as long as I don't remove the line. TIP: When resawing wood for the paddle, cut it to whatever thickness the centerline of the lid will be, then simply remove material from each side to form a gradual radius. For instance, if the lid will be 1/4" thick down the centerline, then remove enough material on each side so that the edges are down to no less than 1/8"-3/16" thick, depending on the lid's thickness and width. A good rule of thumb is to remove as little material as necessary to get a gradual radius. An extreme radius will make tuning and calling extremely difficult (in my experience, anyway).; So, although it makes for a bit more sanding later, I like to use a Stanley Surform Pocket Plane or heavy rasp to shape the radius. Yes, it can be a pain, but as of yet I've found no better way for doing this simply, cheaply, and quietly.; Once the material has been removed with the Surform, I use sandpaper to smooth and even out the radius. This is a very important step, as a poorly shaped and uneven radius--with nicks and high or low spots--will not work correctly or consistently. Beginning with coarse (80 grit) paper, I smooth out the marks left by the Surform or rasp until the entire length of the radius is perfectly smooth and even. I've made a few gauges that help me check this, but most of my checking is done by holding the lid at eye level and looking down its length. Doing this near a bare incandescent light bulb will make slight dips and rises stand out as you slowly tip and tilt the paddle toward and away from the light source. I know it sounds primitive but it works. Something else I do is set the lid (bottom side down) on a very smooth, level (and clean!) surface, and gently roll it back and forth. If there are any large bumps in the lid I can usually feel them. WARNING: This method may take some time to get the hang of. I ruined a bunch of lids when I started by removing material too aggressively and gouging the wood. However, once I got used to it, I grew to like this method, but it's definitely not the easiest way to go.
Shaping the handle: This doesn't have to be tedious as there's nothing special about a handle. However, I started making the handle round and "spoon-shaped," because it helps me feel like I've got a positive grip while set-up in the woods, wearing gloves, and keeping on the lookout for turkeys. My first lids had simpler handles which worked fine; again, personal preference.; After being cut out with a jigsaw or coping saw, the handle is roughed-out with small chisels and carving tools, further shaped with files, rasps, and coarse sandpaper, then gradually finish sanded with 100, 150, 220, 320, and 400 grit paper.
Finish Sanding: I typically sand the bottom radius to around 150-220 grit. I've noticed if it gets sanded too much finer than that, the wood gets burnished and the chalk doesn't cling real well. Again, this can vary depending on the woods used--some trial and error is necessary. Sometimes I don't go any finer than 150 and that seems to work just as well with some woods--mahogany, for instance. A little experimentation is necessary here, and what helped me the most was I usually sand the outside surfaces to 320/400.
Attaching the Lid: Using a small metal rule I measure for the center of the lid and use an awl or nail to mark it for the hinge hole. Then, using the smallest bit I've got (1/16"), I drill a tiny hole through the lid. Then, using a 7/32 bit, I drill the hinge hole so that the lid will turn freely on the screw, and make a recess (countersink) with a little round-nosed rotary rasp chucked in the drill so that the screw head will sit flush or below the top surface of the lid. I also use the rasp to make a slight recess in the hinge hole on the bottom of the lid, and on the end block, so the spring will have a positive "seat" and won't slip. Also, if I want to lighten the spring's pressure on the lid, but don't want to trim it, I can also do that by making the recess/spring seat deeper. Be aware, though, that putting the "spring seat" into the call's design will probably mean that a longer spring will be needed to achieve enough tension between the lid and the box.; An alternate method for creating tension between the lid and the box without a spring (the lid will have to sit higher relative to the height of the sides since it won't have a spring holding it up), or if the spring does not provide enough tension, is to use stiff rubber bands attached from the base to the lid with small "screw-eyes," as can be seen on some well-made older calls--older Lynch boxes, for instance. The size and length of the bands, as well as the quantity, would vary depending on box size and placement but two to four inches is probably a good range to start experimenting. Some calls using this method only have one rubber band and some have as many as four.; Next, I set the lid on the box and mark the top of the end block for where the hole will go, and repeat the procedures for drilling a hole in the lid using a small bit first, then a 1/8" bit--no larger, as the threads won't grip, and no smaller, the fit's too tight and the wood may split--and finishing up with a 3/8" bit and the rotary rasp to make the "spring seat." NOTE: It may be necessary to widen the hole in the lid only to 7/32", as the smooth part of the screw shaft is typically thicker than the threads.; Then I attach the lid using a #8 brass screw (I prefer slotted); the length varies, but generally 3/4 - 1 inch.; Of course, any screw will work, but it's a good idea to use a wood screw since the top part of the shaft is smooth so that the threads won't bite into and tear up the wood around the hole. I also like to lubricate the threads with some beeswax or an old candle (a crayon will work in a pinch). This is an old woodworker's trick that lessens the force exerted on the end block as the screw is tightened. After all that hard work, I'd hate to split the end block open by exerting too much force with the screw, although if the end block is constructed with the grain running vertical, it shouldn't split. Still, I don't like to take any chances.