This page is for our input (mine and yours) on painting; Remember you can contact me at octospider@excite.com
At this Point I glue (using PVA (elmers type)) the figurine to dowel, and the hex base separately to another dowel. Makes the next steps easier and keeps the paint where it belongs (off your fingers), and makes it easier to ; I set the dowels in holes in a 4x6 block for storage, between coats, paint sessions, while brush painting, etc.
5. Spray (or brush; spray seems to apply more evenly, but you will need to do this outdoors) on some white primer[2]
6. When dry, add base coat of some fancy metallic paint from Folk Art [3] (available most fine craft stores), like a Metallic Amethyst. [4] Paint it all over.
7. When that coat is dry, use a 'standard' metallic color, eg, silver, bronze, aluminum, to paint the detail elements. There are _plenty_ of detail elements on the average mech: plates, gaskets, nibs, splibs, tubes, giblets, etc. Don't make yourself nuts (this early, that is. Your time will come...).
8. Apply a black wash [4] (being a small amount of black paint with a large amount of water; err on the side of too much water -- you can always add more, but you can't re-do it if you use too much black paint) all over. The wash will make your Mech look a bit more realistically worn. Use less wash, or apply it more strategically, for a 'newer' mech.
9. Dry Brush (add small amount of paint to brush, and then wipe (almost) all the paint off the brush, 'til just a smidge remains on the bristle tips) a lighter-than-your-Base color across the jutting nibbey bits of your Mech to 'catch light' and add some depth.
10. Glue your Mech to a hex base; let glue set.
I have heard of gluing the mech to the hex base before painting.
11. Dilute some White Glue or PVA and brush it all over the top of the hex base, into the nooks and crannies created by the Mech's own stand. Then stick the base into some fine sand (or special 'flocking' sold for this purpose). Let dry.
12. Lastly, paint the hexbase and its "terrain." Green is standard.
Now, go blow something up...
Kevin, there are dozens of different approaches to miniatures painting, and you will have a ball experimenting with different color primers, different colors and consistencies of washes, different dry brush techniques, etc. Apply only a small amount of time to this hobby and you will get teriffic results very quickly. You may want to resist the temptation of painting your favorite, or your CO's mech, first, until you have had some practice models under your belt. I have, like, _zero_ artistic ability, but have achieved some neat results with a little bit of patience. It is also a _very_ relaxing experience... And again, youv'e come to the right place: we're trying to get some regular discussions going on Mech painting here in RGM; look for the "Blisters on My Hands" threads, or anything with [Miniatures] or [Minis] in the header.
Notes to Vets:
[1] Of course, there are two schools about whether or not the mech should be assembled before or after painting. I find this completely a function of the level of detail beneath the shoulders, between the legs, etc. Hopefully, Kevin will pick a 'walk-before-running' design...
[2] Yeah, Black Primer has its place, but I think Kevin may want to get a few of these under his belt to appreciate exactly where that place is [3] The Citadel paint is better, as has been established here often enough, but lacks (IMO) the wide selection of metallics that I'd like to see Kevin start with.
[4] Sure, the colors in points 6. and 7. are subjective, but I found that this selection, ultimately, leaves less room for dissatisfaction: A botched metallic paint job on a Mech always looks better than a botched flat red-and-white scheme...
Rich Kirby
rkirby@panix.com
7/21/99
Brandon Luffman ( Rattlehead@InfoAve.Net ) gives us a little story:
Last summer, I finally got around to assembling an Assault Lance set I
had laying around for years. I used only three colors, shades of green,
and just camo'ed them.
But what was neat was, when I put a dullcote on them to protect them and
eliminate glossiness, I didn't have the patience to wait till the next
day. See, it was pretty warm out and it was a muggy, drizzly night. I
took them outside, where it wasn't raining anymore, mut real humid and
sprayed the dullcote on. The next day, when I checked them, I was
surprised to see that the dullcote had clouded up, so that you could see
it. I was really mad at myself for not waiting till it was less wet out
to coat them, until I showed them to a friend and the first thing he
commented on was "How did you get that cool dusty look on them?". When
I thought about it, they really did look dusty and realistic, I just
wasn't expecting them to turn out that way so I didn't look at them,
just the unintended effect, and so I didn't realize that they really
looked great. I think it was the humidity that caused this, but I'm not
100% sure. What do you think?
I suppose this could be used as a more permanent weathering technique. For more information on weathering, take a look at any model railoading book.
Also, model railroading books are good sources for learning how to make terrain and trees for your battles.
It was the Humidity. I have had a similar experience with my Flea; On the back of the can, it said that if you get a white or cloudy coating, to spray another thin coat on when it is less humid to clear the dullcoat up.
Create a spotted or stippled look that accurately reflects the paint job given to many military vehicles. Sponge painting is easy: First paint the background color and let it dry. Thoroughly wash a new, unused kitchen sponge. Use detergent to get rid of the softener added to new sponges. Let the sponge dry in the sun; then tear off a few postage-stamp-sized pieces.
Pour the camouflage paint into a shallow bowl or disposable dish and dip the sponge into it. Blot the excess paint onto a paper towel; then dab the sponge on the model, depositing the paint as you go. When the camouflage paint gets too light, dip it back into the paint, blot the excess and continue painting.
You will find that the small cell, man-made sponges give the best look. Natural sea sponges have extra-large cells and aren’t suitable for applying camouflage paint.
4/30/99
On Masking for Camoflage:
Masking by wraping the figurine in modelers masking tape (realy thin strips of tape) once the previous coat is dry can create an interesting wide stripe effect. This can also be achived with thin, long strips of saran wrap or other plastic cling wrap. I have gotten good results from both of these methods.
Or you can make your own tape. Masking Some camouflage schemes are complex and freehand brush painting may not yield the best results. To get a fine separation between the colors, use masking tape to mark off the area for the additional colors.
As before, paint the light background color first. Lay some trips of masking tape on a glass or plastic surface (a window will do in a pinch), and use your hobby knife to cut smooth and even curves. Apply the tape on the model. If the tape is really sticky, touch it to your fingers a few times; the oil of your skin will reduce the stickiness, so there will be less chance that when the tape is removed, it will pull off paint with it.
If the area to be painted is large, use a spray can. Otherwise, add the second color with a paint brush. Paint by starting over the masking tape and brushing toward the surface of the model.
That way, you won’t push paint under the masking tape. Wait for the second color to dray completely; then carefully peel off the tape. Repeat the process for each additional color.
4/30/99