Warlord Miscellany


(This page discusses a board game discussed here.)


Warlord Notation

To note games in Warlord it is useful to declare board orientation. White always stars out on the eastmost edge, and Black on the westmost edge, with the towers on the northern half of the board (at 5,2 and 5,7).

Notation is given in this format: Piece, Direction. Pieces are denoted by naming the piece (P, K, A, S, W), and direction by the cardinal points (n, ne, e, se, s, sw, w, nw). Before the name of the piece, it is usually necessary to distinguish it from the others of its type by giving s for "southern" or n for "northern." Exceptions to this are as follows.


  1. Since peasants may not be easily identified otherwise, they may be noted by Column, comma, Row rather than with a P. Columns and rows are counted 1-8 starting from the southeast corner (white's leftmost corner).
  2. Peasant dashes and long knight moves note Distance from 2-7 after Direction.
  3. Marching is given by the movement of the rearmost piece (pushing the others), followed at the end with an m for legibility.
  4. Kills are noted at the end with an X; trades are noted with T. Multiple kills require multiple X’s. If there is confusion about who dies after a move, then names of pieces or coordinates of dead pieces are given after the X.
  5. For analysis, questionable moves are denoted with ?, stupid moves with ??. Likewise clever moves are noted with !, and inspired moves with !!. (This follows chess convention.)


Some Opening Moves

  1. The Classic Opening: nS se m

    This sets up a strong presence in the northern side of the board. The equivalent move, nS sw m, is is also a good open for white, but after one player has made such an opening, it becomes a trade if the other player follows suit.

  2. South Opening: W se (or 7,8 se m)

    This straightforward opening advances the warlord to control the middle of the board. A more aggressive opening is to march the peasant and archer along with the warlord; this can be somewhat dangerous in that it cuts off the warlord's avenue of escape, but it can lay arrowfire on the opposing ranks, hampering their mobility.

  3. North Opening: W ne (or, 3,8 ne m)

    This is a less popular opening, in that it tends to clutter up the tighter northern side of the board. It lends itself well to aggressive play, however, especially against novice opponents. Jenny's Opening is a good response to this.

  4. Jenny's Opening: sA s

    This is an excellent defensive opening for white, but Jenny's open is also useful for black. The various Discovered Openings for southern knights are usually a sensible followups to allow the southern archer a line of sight to the northern half of the board.

  5. Discovered Opening: sK nw (or nK sw for the northern archer)

    Advancing with knights at the start of the game is dangerous; they are better suited to mid and late game aggression. But moving the knight back gives the northern archer to move forward, or to the side, and gain a discovered line of sight along the southeastern diagonal. This is useful as a defensive tactic, largely because having a line of sight in that direction is almost always valuable, but leaves forces well contained and does not commit an attack in any direction.

  6. Mark's Opening: 2,7 e2 (or 3,6 se)

    This opening allows Black's southern archer to ultimately advance into 1,6 (or 1,3 for White) a strategic location with a line of sight to the enemy tower. However, be prepared to defend the peasant by moving the southern spearman forward as needed.


Sample Game #1
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1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
Black
sK sw
sS ne
sA se m
nA n
nK sw
ns se m
nA e
sA sw
nA se m X
nA ne
S e Victory
White
2,2 w2
sS nw
nK se
nA w
W sw
W sw X
sS nw X
nA e
sK nw
3,3 nw X
--

The moves in this game mostly speak for themselves.

White mounts an offensive on Black's southern side, which Black largely ignores, and instead of rushing to defend, he develops his north flank in move #6, and then again in move #7. White, apparently believing that Black is merely giving away his pieces, seems all to happy to take them.

It is only in move #8 that White attends to his defensive structure, but here it is only to move an Archer out of harm's way. It isn't until Black marches forward in move #9 that White begins to realize that he is out of position, but the severety of his danger is not manifested until move #10, when Black's archer takes aim at the Tower, allowing his spearman to move in for the kill.


Sample Game #2
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1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
Black
nS se m
sP e2 ?
nS ne
nK nw
sA se
sK se2
W se
sS ne
sA se !
sS ne
W se X
nK e2 X
sP w2
nK w
nK w
nK e4 X
nK se X
nK sw2 X
S ne
White
sK ne
sA s
7,3 nw X
nK sw
sP nw m ?
sP s2
4,4 se
nS w
W nw m X
sA n
W sw
nA sw m
nS w
sK sw
nK w4 T !!
W ne
5,3 w2
sK nw3 X
K sw T Victory

This game showcases excellent strategy. In the outset, black gives away a peasant and ten finally a spearman in move #9 before dominating the southern side of the board. Black is almost in position to win at this point.

But, struggling to set up a careful defense and hold off the advance of black's peasant (at 2,5) in move #10 and spearman in move #11, white manages to consolidate his defense by move #12 and buys enough time to mount an offensive of his own. Note that the position of white's warlord not only protects the space at 4,4 where black would like to move his spearman, but also places him dangerously near black's tower. Black is slow to realize the gravity of this threat, and in moves #13 and #14 continues to focus his attention on the southwestern corner; white's warlord, while uncomfortably close, cannot strike on its own.

But white opens the way to do just that in move #15, a daring strategic sacrifice which would have seemed sheer insanity if not for the position of white's warlord near black's tower, and the position of black's knight which white manipulated out of position in white's moves #13 and #14. Realizing too late the danger to his tower, black's knight rages furiously across the board, slaughtering piece after piece, but these efforts are futile and cannot stave off white's ultimate victory in move #19.


Sample Game #3
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1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
Black
6,7 se m
nS se m
sS ne
nA se m ?
eP n2
nS se X
nK ne X
sK ne
sK se3 X
wP s2
sK w3 !
S e
nK e4 XX
White
sS nw
3,3 sw
sA nw m
nK nw
nS sw m
W sw
wP nw T
sS nw XX
sK se
S w X
eP sw m
S e
Surrenders

Note: This is an older game using a different starting position and slightly different rules: Peasants cannot dash through enemy attacks, and the archers are placed at the corners of the board, rather than behind the knights. Otherwise, this game follows a fairly typical development, with two moves worth commenting on, Black’s 4th move ("?") and 11th move ("!").

In the 4th move, Black has taken a risk by exposing his northern column, and White does not hesitate to exploit this opening. Only by dashing a peasant over to protect the column does Black stave off disaster. The resultant position, while somewhat precarious, ultimately brings a win through moves 12 and 13.

Black’s 11th move represents a devious ploy to set up an assault on White’s Tower. By pulling his knight back, Black appears preoccupied with the losing battle in the southwest, trying to prevent White from advancing with his spearman by sending the knight into what would be his blind-spot at the south flank. White responds by bringing in reinforcements, but in move 12 Black moves his spearman into position to attack White’s Tower, and with Black's southern knight poised to complete the capture, White is forced to scramble for cover and ultimately surrender.


Meet the Cast

Peasants: Clever little units, those peasants. Peasants are the glue that holds an army together; an army left without most of its peasants can still attack fairly easily, but is extremely vulnerable to enemy knights and archers. The peasants' ability to dash allows them to prevent archers from being too aggressive, and they can fend off overrunning knights by laying hits on the spaces around themselves. They also get in the way from time to time, if you don't plan around their positions, but their ability to dash and march usually keeps this from being too much of a problem.

Spearmen: The spearman is a somewhat curious unit in its flexibility. While overall more powerful than a peasant, the spearman isn't exceptionally good or bad at any one thing. Left in the rear, the spearman helps to provide some structure for the defense, but peasants are really better here because they can atack more spaces. And put in the front, spearmen are effective at conquering land and making kills because of their long reach which lets them attack enemies with impunity from the front, but their inability to lay attacks to their flanks or rear moderates their offensive strength somewhat.

Archers: In stark contrast to peasants, the archers have a destabilizing effect on the board, because they add hits to spaces all across the battlefield, and are themselves vulnerable to being killed by attacks from adjacent squares. Furthermore, they cannot lay any attacks to the flank and rear to help defend against aggressive knights. This archer destabilization is the reason why the board setup had to be very carefully arranged into its current position - the archers had to be placed into positions where they were not laying hits on enemy spaces which were already exposed. When using archers, watch the position of your enemy's peasants. Archers are devestating in the front ranks, but a peasant can kill an archer from four spaces away just by dashing, and this is why it's important to move peasants forward if possible, to keep enemy archers at a respectful distance.

Knights: Writing as the creator of Warlord, the knight is my favorite piece. Knights make Warlord more dynamic and more exciting simply because they can do something no other piece can do: move as far across the board as they like in a single move. (Horses are pretty useful like that.) They help to open up the playing field and connect things on opposite sides of the board, and their overrun ability adds variety to the way kills can be made, forcing players to think not only in terms of the number of hits they have on any square from adjacent spaces but to remember that knights can defend spaces by threatening to overrun anyone who moves onto certain spaces attacking them.

The knights seem to play two roles in the game. Early on, they function much like peasants do; the board is too clutterred for them to move very far, and defensive structures tend to be too strong for them to overrun anything. But as the board thins out, and especially as the peasants start dropping, knights begin to take a more active role. Now it is more difficult to attack enemy knights, since they can always run away without pieces blocking lines of movement, and it is also difficult to defend against knights, since they can threaten to overrun so many spaces, and this only gets easier as your opponent's defensive structure crumbles. Knights allow for phenomenal double and triple kills, and sudden (often chivalrously suicidal) captures of the enemy tower. Knights are just great fun.

The Warlord: The warlord is a difficult piece to use effectively. Since he is the single most powerful piece on the field, yet has the most restricted movement, he concentrates a great amount of an army's power in one limited area. Very much of an army's posture as aggressive or defensive hinges on the position of the warlord, and the warlord is the easiest piece to overextend. Keeping the warlord in front of your tower will ensure that your tower is difficult to take; moving your warlord over to the enemy's flanks will allow you to pick off their pieces, but the enemy warlord can often sweep in towards your tower if you get too carried away.

One question that often comes up with the warlord which rarely seems relevant with other pieces is "should I march?" The warlord can't kill anything by himself, and having an entourage of peasants trailing along behind him can be very effective. Yet, having peasants behind him at both the north and south prevents the warlord from retreating. It's very easy to trap a warlord in that position by laying a single attack on him with an archer or spearman; he can't march to get away! Towards the end of the game this is less of a problem, since the warlord can very often move forwards to escape pressure laid on him by enemy warriors. Nevertheless, it's usually good to leave one of his rear flanks open to allow for retreat (especially towards the tower).

The Tower: Being the focus of the game, the tower is of course the single most important piece. However, the immobility of the tower makes it difficult to use militarily. Your tower can nevertheless serve as a base of operations and even a useful defender - remember that the princess who inhabits the tower attacks all adjacent spaces just like a peasant. Towards the end of the game, when horsemen scream across the battlefield like bloodthirsty gods of war, it's not a bad idea to have your archers and spearmen hiding in her skirts for protection. And, in this position, they can also be most useful in defending the tower; if the battlefield gets very thin, it's usually better to keep a large force in the center of the board rather than trying to strike out on the northern or (especially) the southern flank.


The History of Warlord

In the beginning, I wanted Warlord to be something like a cross between checkers, chess, and Hnefatafl. I liked the idea of a relatively simple game with a "medieval" feel. Consequently, the initial rules and setup for the first version are shown here:

Warlord - represented by a king

Castle - represened by a queen and two rooks standing together in the same square

Knight - represented by a knight

Archer - represented by a bishop

The peasants are represented by pawns.

Originally, the movement of individual pieces was much more limited, but also, there was no Marching. Also, in the first verson of Warlord, a piece was killed whenever it couldn't return an attack made against it. Units fighting one another were said to be "engaged," and a unit under attacks it couldn't return was "overwhelmed." This worked the same as under the current rules in almost all circumstances, but in rare instances there were differences. For instance, if a knight moved behind an archer and a peasant, in the modern version, the archer would be killed. In the original version, however, the knight would have to engage the peasant to keep it from killing him; he could turn his attack on the archer, but then he wouldn't be able to fend off the peasant's blows and would be killed. This older way of playing tended to favor the defender.

PEASANT: The peasant attacked any adjacent square with a pitchfork. Peasants moved one space diagonally, either forward or backward.
Changes: Peasants couldn't dash.

ARCHER: The archer had no attacks. Because of this, they were killed instantly by any attack laid on them. Archers moved one space forwards, backwards, left, or right. The archer could spend a move to kill any piece standing along either forward diagonals (but not straight ahead, over other pieces' heads, or against the castle).
Changes: They couldn't move diagonally or fire straight ahead, but they could kill with one shot.

KNIGHT: The knight attacked any adjacent square with his longsword, as now. However, he only moved one or two spaces diagonally.
Changes: Knights couldn't overrun enemy pieces, nor move orthogonally or very far diagonally.

WARLORD: Attacked any adjacent square with his ax. The warlord moved one space diagonally, and carried a shield which negated one attack against him at all times.
Changes: None.

CASTLE: The castle attacked any adjacent square with thrown boulders, spears, and boiling oil.
Changes: The only changes the castle (tower) has undergone are cosmetic.

If you try these rules out for yourself, you'll find that they give the game a very checker-like feel. Individual moves are not very important, and the game develops very slowly. In a way, the game is remeniscent of the original way Chess was played in the Middle Ages; there was no castling, the bishops travelled by jumping exactly two spaces diagonally, and the queen moved only one space diagonally. (The modern game of chess is actually called "Mad Queen Chess," for obvious reasons.)


The Evolution of Warlord

Many, many other ideas and options were tried along the way; these only represent the good ideas that lasted. Fortunately I had several playtesters available to help me iron out the kinks, so thanks go out to Alexandra Connel, Dan Donahue, Jenny Graybill, and Nikolas Lloyd for their patience and advice.


Other Options and a Few Last Words

I tried Warlord with a variety of board setups and piece abilities, and this is the combination which worked best. There are, however, a few minor changes you can try for yourselves.

Firstly, you can try tinkering with the existing abilities, such as the knights' Overrun ability. Some possible knight variants are the option to trample through pieces they Overrun, or (consistent with real cavalry fighting) the option to lay their attack on any one piece along their path rather than directing attacks at the end of their move. Or, you can restrict peasant dashing to forwards and backwards only for greater realism.)

Secondly, if you have miniature figurines you may want to try introducing new and different units. For instance:

...

Thirdly, you can change the starting positions of the pieces, or even the board itself. You might allow either player to setup his pieces in secret, or spend a certain number of points from a pool to buy units (as in fantasy wargames). The original setup pushed the tower further back to create a longer game, and used more peasants at the start to account for the resulting higher rate of attrition; you can try this out for yourself to see how well you like it.

It was also common in ancient times to find rectangular boards or boards with an odd number of sides, so you might experiment with other board setups. One variant is a 7 x 8 board as shown here. The leftmost column has been excluded, another peasant has been added, and the tower and warlords have been moved one space back.

Or, you can try the simpler Kesch Variant which works without a Warlord.

Fourthly, you can allow peasants who reach the far side of the board to be promoted into a knight or warlord. I thought it was unrealistic for peasants to reach an arbitrary place on the board and suddenly 'become' another unit, but this is common to games like shogi and checkers and can add another element to Warlord if you find it interesting.

Lastly, you might try other periods in history. Here is a rudimentary outline for playing Warlord in the WWII era:

To play using WWII rules, you can easily use the normal piece setup with an infantry unit replacing the Warlord since there is no equivalent piece.

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Email the author at harkenbane@juno.com