Atlas Page 74
By W. H. Traill
Cape York Peninsula | The Gulf | The Interior Country |
CAPE YORK PENINSULA.
THURSDAY ISLAND, the Ultima Thule of north Queensland
civilisation, is not reached until Cape York has been fairly rounded and passed. The
island, situated in the southern part of Torres Straits, is the site of an outpost rather
than of a settlement. Its own resources are nothing. For the existence of the residents,
it is dependent chiefly upon official and maritime resources. As a coaling station, a port
of call, and a harbour of refuge, its importance can scarcely be over-estimated. It is
also the head-quarters of the pearl-shellers, whose fleets of dapper little luggers and
schooners resort thither for their periodical renewal of stores and their discharge of
nacreous spoils. Hence, also, expeditions to New Guinea take ordinarily their final
departure. The Queensland Government here maintains a police magistrate and a
sub-collector of customs, each officer multiplying his functions; while the one acts as
harbourmaster the other combines the duty of savings bank officer, shipping master, and
registrar of the "district." A couple of hotels, the store of Messrs. Burns,
Philp and Co., a firm almost, ubiquitous and omnipotent in northern Queensland and New
Guinea coastal affairs, with two hotels, the official and a scattered sprinkling of other
residences, constitute the town, such as it is the nucleus possibly of the future
great entrepot of Torres Straits. All steamers trading from eastern Asia, India,
and Europe, to Australia, via the northeast coast, call here. It was hence that Sir Thomas
MIlwraith, when Premier of Queensland, despatched Mr. Chester, the then police
magistrate, to annex New Guinea to the British dominions. The situation on Vivian Point,
the southwest extremity of the island, is picturesque; the climate is healthy, and the
tropical situation assures regular alternation of seasons, the dry season lasting with the
southeast monsoon from March till December and the wet season from December
till March. Of the western coast of Cape York Peninsula, very little is known, and that
little is piecemeal knowledge obtained by officers and crews of small vessels trading to
the towns on the Gulf of Carpentaria. Occasionally, wood or water running short in such
vessels, landings are made, but no published information respecting the character of the
shores is existent, and on the maps the old names of the Dutch explorers still remain.
THE GULF.
THE Gulf of Carpentaria is a tepid and shallow sea, which shelves very gradually to the land at its southern shores. The origin of the name is wrapped in some obscurity. General Carpenter, the Dutch Governor of Batavia in 1628, is usually alleged to have been sponsor; but Dr. Langs researches led him to conjecture that Captain Peter Carpenter, a relative of the governors and commander of an exploratory vessel, is entitled to share the honour.
The coast of the Gulf of Carpentaria is probably the most uninteresting portion of Australia, looked at from an artistic point of view. On the eastern side it presents, with the exception of Duyfhen Point, an almost unbroken line of low, swampy shores bordered by mangrove-trees. On the south, groups of islands, of which two namely, Mornington and Bentinck are of considerable size, relieve the prevailing monotony. Sweers Island, the south-easternmost of the Wellesley Group, though smaller than either of those just named, is nearly five miles long and from one-third to one and a half miles wide. Here, in the early days of Gulf settlement, a port of entry was established in view of the unwholesomeness of the ports on the mainland, from which and from the pastoral stations fever stricken patients resorted to the island as a sanatorium.
The Queensland towns
in the Gulf are two, of which Burketown is the older. The first lodgment was made here in
1863, at which date the pastoral pioneers had pushed out from the south and overrun the
magnificent country on the rivers flowing into the Gulf; but, beaten by the fall in the
price of wool and the commercial crisis which supervened, they abandoned the country, and
Burketown was in turn deserted. The town had, however, been already decimated by an
epidemic introduced by a vessel named the "Margaret and Jane." In later years,
the site was again occupied, and the town has sprung into renewed life; its situation on
the navigable waters of the Albert River assures its permanence and growth.
A formidable rival, however, exists in Normanton, on the Norman River, the most
promising for shipping among all the streams discharging into the Gulf. The usual bar
exists some three miles to sea, but inside this there are fine reaches stretching inland
from fifteen to twenty miles, with an average width of half a mile, and depth ample for
vessels of large tonnage. The town itself is fifty miles up the stream, and accessible
only to vessels of light draught. With a population which in 1887 already exceeded one
thousand, Normanton bids fair to become the capital of the Gulf country. It is the outlet not only for a wide expanse of pastoral country,
but for the Cloncurry district, where exist deposits of copper which are said to rival in
richness and extent the greatest mines now worked in the whole world. Cloncurry is also a
considerable goldfield, but has recently been eclipsed by the brilliant promise of the
Croydon field, to which, also, Normanton is the nearest port, and where literally hundreds
of reefs yielding gold freely have been superficially laid bare. From Normanton a railway
has been commenced towards Cloncurry, and the first section is already constructed. This
seems destined to become in later years, when extended to the south, the main trunk line
of Queensland, the railways from the coast joining it at right angles, and thus
establishing a complete connection between the various fragments of the Queensland railway
system which at present are detached.
The only other point on the Gulf coast which calls for special mention is Point Parker, where there is some elevation of the land abutting the shore, and where channels of deeper water than ordinary afford access to vessels of burden. This spot was indicated as the probable ocean terminus of the transcontinental railway once projected. Since the abandonment of that project, Point Parker has remained unnoticed, and perhaps unvisited.
THE INTERIOR COUNTRY.
OUR sketch has thus far treated almost exclusively of the coastal districts and towns;
the bulk of the immense territory. Comprised within the boundaries of Queensland yet
remains to be dealt With. By exempting the Cape York Peninsula from consideration, a rule
fairly general may be stated. The country is ordinarily uneven on the shorter streams
which, having their sources in the coast ranges, run briefly to the sea, and also in the
lower portions of the longer rivers which, heading from what is termed the Dividing Range,
fall into the Pacific. This part of the colony is well supplied with subsidiary streams
and creeks; it is heavily-timbered and better suited for cattle than for sheep. Close to
the coast, and in other occasional parts of these tracts, there are deposits .of very rich
alluvial soil. The tracts which are drained by the heads of rivers flowing south, and of
which the waters ultimately discharge into the Great Australian Bight in South Australia,
and the extensive areas on the watershed of the Carpentarian rivers, consist to a very
great extent of rolling downs and plains of rich soil, deeply covering the strata. Such
also is the character of much of the country on the headwaters of the longer class of
rivers which run to the Pacific on the east coast. Thus the Dawson, the Isaacs, the
Nogoa, and the Comet, heads of the Fitzroy, and also the Belyando, the Suttor, and the
Cape, heads of the Burdekin, water much "downs" country. In these instances, the
open patches are interspersed with heavy masses of brigelow scrub, a species of eucalyptus
which grows in close and practically impenetrable masse the haunt of dingoes and
wallabies, the refuge of hunted blacks, and latterly, the retreat of herds of wild cattle
and horses. The country, traversed by the heads of southern rivers generally less
undulating and more free from heavy scrub, while the Carpentarian plains are of vast
extent, level, and as devoid of trees as the prairies of North America, which, allowing
for differences of climate, they much resemble. All these open tracts are clothed with a
carpeting of richest grasses, replete with nourishment for stock, and with herbs of great
value for the same use. The saltbush, of which there are several varieties, growing
chiefly on the margin of scrub, has an attraction for sheep, and a hygienic influence upon
them of unspeakable value.
The Darling Downs, Cunninghams early discovery affords a familiar example of this quality of country, of which it is a tolerably fair sample, although not now a favourable one, the infinite variety of indigenous herbs and grasses having been to a great extent eradicated by overstocking, too frequent burnings, and other causes. From a scenic point of view, a fairly typical representation of this country is to be seen in views of Westbrook station, one among many sheep-runs equally famous in the colony.
It may be broadly affirmed of the territory of Queensland that it offers a curious balance of compensations. The worst country is generally that which has the best supply of water. The scarcer the natural runs and reservoirs of water, the better the soil and grass. In those cases where the country rugged, barren, and almost impenetrable seems totally useless for pastoral or agricultural occupation, rich treasures of mineral wealth may be almost certainly assumed to exist.
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