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From Porto we drove south on the A1 got off at IP5 north of Coimbra and went east to Guarda. IP5 is a main highway all the way to Guarda. It also provides you with many scenic views as the road climbs up toward Guarda.
From Lisbon its easy these days. Just cross the Vasco da Gama bridge pick up A6 and proceed east until you reach IP2 and turn on to it and proceed north. This will also permit you to become acquainted with Alto Alentejo.
At two-thirds of a mile above sea level Guarda is the highest town in Portugal, so it is cool in the summer and cold in the winter. Fortifications were built here in the 12th century, and Guarda's role was to guard against Spanish invasions.
W
e didn't spend much time in this town on our first visit but in subsequent visits we have explored this town.From Guarda we went south on IP2, which does not really become a good highway until you reach Fundão. During this stretch you are on a two-lane road that winds through the mountains. The road goes down the mountains to the plains. You pass through Covilha, Fundao and also Castelo Branco and eventually you cross the River Tejo where it is a little stream -- compared to its width in Lisbon. The road then becomes very good to Portalegre.
A few years later we would drive north on this route on the way to Bragança. However at Covilha we would turn left and explore one of the most secluded and beautiful places in Portugal, the Serra da Estrela mountains.
The Torre in the distance
Road from Guarda
The town of Belmonte lies some 20 km from the Serra da Estrela. Belmonte was the the birthplace of Pedro Álvares Cabral, the discoverer of Brazil, and also home to the oldest Jewish communities in Europe.
Pedro Álvares Cabral
We stayed here at the new Pousada de Belmonte. Situated on the hillside of the Serra da Esperança the Pousada has been reconstructed from the ruined Convent of Nossa Senhora da Esperança. There is also a small chapel from the XIII Century.
View from the terrace of the Pousada
From the terrace of the Pousada you have wonderful views of the Serra da Estrela. So enjoy the view and also explore the fiefdom of the Cabral family while you are at it.
Coming in to Belmonte
I noticed that they were doing a massive rework on the castle and the view as you enter the town and I was extremely impressed with it.
Odd fame hit this town when it was voted "most Portuguese village in Portugal". I guess that is why I just had to visit this village. We have been to other Old Portuguese towns - Óbidos and Monsaraz and I wanted to see how this village compared. Well I was most pleasantly surprised. We also had the opportunity to attend Mass in their church.
The village is at one with the granite hillside on which it perches: its lanes blend into the gray rock, the houses squeezed between massive boulders and tiny gardens sprout from the granite.
I have been in quaint other Portuguese towns and walled cities but this village has a wonderful air about it that leaves you forever impressed.
This little town lies in the middle of the Eastern Beiras and makes a good location to establish a base for traveling.
We stayed at the Estalagem da Neve Tel: 275 752
215. I was a very comfortable place to
stay and extremely convenient to the
center of Fundão. I also wish to thank the Cafe owner, down in the center of
Fondão, and his mother for the
kindness, generosity and friendship that they showed us.
Since IP 2 sort of by-passes this town, we have driven past it for many years. This year I decided to see what we had been missing and was pleasantly surprised.
It is a very pleasant town and it catches your eye the moment you enter the center of town. This is busy old city, overlooked by vestiges of a Templar castle. One of its great attractions is the Jardim do Paço Episcopal. This is a beautiful statue lined garden and well worth a visit.
The garden was built by the Bishop Dom João de Mendança (18th Century). This garden is unique in Portugal for its originality and grace. Hieratic statues of Kings and apostles flank the gardens and flights of steps and box hedges in the fantasy shapes of the Baroque.
W
e arrived in Castelo de Vide just about as it was getting dark. It had been a long day of driving from Porto. We spent a little time walking around this quaint spa town on the slopes of the Serra de São Mamede. It's is a nice small town and you can enjoy the narrow streets without the confusion of the traffic in the larger cities. The main square is ringed with 17th century buildings and a 18th century mansion. To the right is the ancient Jewish quarter. This is a small town most of it can be seen in a short evening stroll. We thought that maybe we would take a drive over to Spain, since it was so close, but our schedule didn't permit it.
Street in Castelo de Vide
I
n a way trying to see a lot of the country and trying to balance it with being able to stay in an area long enough to enjoy it is a problem that I faced on all my trips. Actually there is plenty to see in this area alone.
View toward Spain in Castelo de Vide
This little town in the Alto Alentejo breaths the peacefulness of an Alentejo village. The air breaths tranquility as you see the sheep grazing in the nearby pastures.
Pousada Flor da Rosa
We stayed at the Pousada Flor da Rosa. It is a castle, convent, and a place that was built in different periods and its has been rebuilt into a beautiful Pousada. As you approach the Pousada entrance, you make look up to see the very large bird that has built his nest on the tower.
Alter Stud-Farm
Located just a short drive away is the Alter Stud-Farm. This farm was founded in 1748, according to a decision made my King John V. Tours of the farm are readily available.
Falcon at the Stud Farm
This area of Portugal is scarcely industrialized but it has a sunny and rural atmosphere that makes it most restful. This is a region where there is abundant game and shepherds have guided their flocks for centuries. This is also an area where the pork is the best in Portugal and many other delicacies that can give the visitor a taste of authentic Alentejo cooking. We found a restaurant that has a good example of these delicacies it is the Páteo Real in Alter do Chão Tel: 045 612 301.
Farm outside the Pousada in Flor da Rosa
Indicates Pousada location.
You may also obtain information from Manor Houses of Portugal by completing the form on any page of their site.
If you desire to rent a car we have extremely competitive rates:
Official Alentejo Greeters
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Creation Date: 04 Dec 1995
Last Updated: 12 Feb 2005
Copyright © 1995-2005 Thomas J. Sullivan MA
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