It has been over four years since we went up north. It's not that we didn't care for the north, it was because most of our trips have been later in the year and I decided to go south because the weather is warmer.

This is the route that we followed. We traveled east to the Planicies, north to the Montanhas, west to the Costa Verde, and then south to the Costa de Prata and then back to the Lisbon area. The section from Vila Real to Viana do Castelo is in the Minho Douro section of these pages.

As usual, the trip started with a brief stay in Lisbon. We had only allocated three days for the stay in Lisbon. It should have been longer because so many things have changed. In the past years, Lisbon has been a work in progress with the new metro, parking arrangements and Expo 98. But now most of the pieces have been put back in place and there are many new things to see.

The new metro extension is one. It is well worth the ride out to the Parque das Nações, the old Expo 98 site. Each station along the way is more beautiful than the previous. Then you arrive at the final stop, the Estação do Oriente that is the most beautiful of them all.

As you exit the station the Vasco da Gama center catches your eye. This impressive center is completed and contains a total of 164 shops, 123 satellite shops and 30 restaurants. The architecture of the center has been designed to blend in to the Oriente station.

Walking a little further you will enter the Parque das Nações. This new city is being built on the Expo 98 site. It is truly beautiful. Here on the banks of the Tejo a new city is born. It will contain cultural centers, aquariums, esplanades, and restaurants. The cable cars still run the length of the site and provide you with splendid view.

We picked up our AVIS rental car at the Tivoli hotel garage loaded our luggage and we were on our way. The traffic in Lisbon appeared to be lighter, maybe because of the new bridge. I drove up the Avenda da Liberdade to the Marquês Pombal Circle, then onto the Avenda da Republica. I couldn't help but notice the beautiful and colorful tiles, which now decorate the pillars under the second circular at the end of Campo Grande. Then it was onto the A1 highway watching for signs to the Vasco da Gama Bridge. This bridge is a work of art. We had driven over it at night. Now in the sunlight it was just of an impressive.

Vasco da Gama Bridge

It was very easy to find A6-IP7, which is completed, to Estremoz. However shopping pressures arose suggesting that I make a slight detour to Arraiolos.

Arraiolos is well known for its famous carpets. It has been producing these famous carpets since the turn of the 18th century. It is possible to see the workshops where the carpets are designed and made. They will make a design to your request or combine or size an existing design. These carpets are not cheap but for anything so beautiful they are well worth it. You will experience some price advantage by buying direct from any one of these factories. So if you are interested in buying a beautiful carpet, it is well worth the visit and if have something special in mind they will make it for you. They will also arrange for shipping.

Village of Arraiolos

If you are hungry you may enjoy some of the meat pies, honey, egg cakes and local sausages that are a specialty of the town. I sort of enjoyed the mounted policeman riding their horses through the town.

On our last visit to Arraiolos we stayed in the Pousada N. Sra da Assunção it is a very nice and beautiful place to stay. They have made a lot of improvements to the town. A beautiful fountain has been installed and a lot of the streets have been made pedestrian walk ways.

We finished looking around in Arraiolos and we started for Estremoz. I decided to follow N4 all the way. This proved to be a scenic way to enter Estremoz. First the town appeared on the horizon. Surrounded by its 17th century walls. As you get closer you see the road winding up the hillside toward the entrance. You must cross a drawbridge to enter the town and as you do you glance down at the sheep grazing in the meadow below. You cross over the bridge and then turn right and proceed up the hill past whitewashed houses to the castle. As you enter the square you are impressed with the beauty of it all. On your left is the Pousada Santa Isabel next to it is the church Sant Maria and beside it is the audience hall of the original palace where Queen (Saint) Isabel died. The church is not open all of the time but we were fortunate to be there on Holy Thursday and attend a special mass there.

Also located on this square is the restaurant São Rosas. We ate here one night and enjoyed the meal immensely.

Pousada Santa Isabel

We spend a short time in Estremoz four years ago. I remember passing through on a Saturday and walking through the local market. This time we would spend more time here and see the rest of the town. We would also take a drive over to Elvas and some of the nearby towns.

Square in Elvas

We spend quite a few hours just walking around and enjoying Estremoz. A friend in Lisbon had suggested that we go to a local restaurant, named Isaias, saying that it was one of his favorite restaurants. We decided to follow his suggestion. This was a small place and the owner cooks most of the food outside on a grill. I thought by now with my almost fluent Portuguese that I would have no trouble with ordering from the menu. Wrong - anyway by using appropriate sign language with the very patient waiter, we finally got the meal ordered. All I can say is that it was one of the most delicious meals that I have ever eaten. I highly recommend that you try it.

Isaias Restaurant in Estremoz

We spent a few days here visiting Redondo, Reguengos de Monsaraz and Monsaraz and surrounding towns. Vila Vicosa is a must see town. This was the county seat of the Dukes of Braganças. The palace Paço Ducal is very worthwhile visiting.

One of the most interesting towns was Monsaraz.

This town is situated a few miles north of N256 and very close to the Spanish border. Friends had told us that this was worth seeing. They were right. Monsaraz was one of the fortified towns that were built along the border during the 13th century. Monsaraz has stayed that way. As you start to approach Monsaraz you see this walled city ahead of you on a mountaintop. Then you arrive at the entrance. On the slopes to the entrance they have planted beautiful beds of flowers. Everything is neat and well trimmed.

Entrance to Monsaraz

You enter the town through the front gate and you are in a fairyland. You have passed in time back a few centuries. The town has many shops selling hand-woven goods as well as some very nice pottery. The shopkeepers are very friendly and helpful. You may spend many enjoyable hours just wandering around this town.

As I was taking a picture of this street, I watched a car try to make it up in first gear. He didn't make it.

Street in Monsaraz

The village consists of just four cobblestone streets lined with houses that are small and individual. The town is freshly painted and very clean. There is just something about this town that fills you with serenity. It just seemed to lack the hustle and bustle of more popular walled towns. The beauty of this town, plus the breathtaking views, will always remain as a pleasant memory.

Some Residents of Monsaraz

Leaving Estremoz we drove north on IP2 working our way toward Portalegre. It is a very scenic drive and we took in the sights along the way.

On the road

We drove northward crossing the River Tejo where is it a small stream amazed how it becomes a major river by time it reaches Lisbon and the sea. Many of Portugal's major rivers begin in Spain. This makes Portugal highly dependent on Spanish generosity. Hopefully the completion of the new Alqueva dam will relieve this problem.

Rio Tejo

Then we proceeded on through Castelo Branco and Fundao slowly climbing the mountains until we reached the turn off for Covilha. The manager at the Pousada in Estremoz told me that the shorter route to Manteigas was through Covilha. I'm not sure if it is the shortest but it is the most scenic.

By now I should have known that the translation of scenic means, twisting, winding, barely two lanes and no shoulders or guard rails. Little did I realize that we were about to start a journey into a wonderful area. As you climb high into the Serra's, you are impressed with the beauty. This lunar landscape has been carved into the granite by the Ice Age glacier. You see many weird rock shapes. Grazing on the mountains are the sheep who have shaped the fortunes of this area by providing wool for the textile industry and the milk for Portugal's best know cheese, Queijo da Serra. Serra cheese is made from the milk of ewes. It is produced in rounds. It is pale, slightly runny and has a thick rind. The scenery is spectacular and you marvel at the diversity that can be found in this small country of Portugal. This is truly another one of Portugal's hidden gems.

We entered the Parque at Covilhã. I had to ask for directions a few times. Soon we were on N339 and starting the steep assent into the mountains. The road passes through pine, oak and chestnut trees along the way. As we continued our climb into the Estrelas, we noticed a sign for the Estalagem Serra da Estrela. We stopped for a rest and a pleasant lunch.

Scenic Road

Then as we drove higher into the Serras we were amazed at the snow capped mountains in the distance. We then arrive at the point where N339 intersects with M338. This is a magnificent view of the Penhas Douradas, a line of three peaks called the golden crests. They rise to 6,539 feet and remain snow capped for all but the three hottest summer months. We paused to take a picture of the snow-covered mountains topped with a small stone tower -- the torre.

Torre on top of the snow covered mountains

Then we continued on our scenic journey. The road N338 then started a decent through 14 km. of tortuous bend toward the town of Manteigas. The scenery is superb small water falls cascade down the mossy rocks and tall pines provide the shade.

Caldas de Manteigas

As we crossed over the bridge, the beautiful stream that flowed down from the Mountains intrigued us. I parked the car and we walked back for a look. It was well worth it. The River Zêzere cascaded over the rocks as it worked its way down to the River Tejo.

Mountain Stream

Then we proceeded on to the town of Manteigas. This is a typical mountain town sheltered in the lovely glacial valley of the River Zêzere. Its white, pink and beige houses reflect the bright mountain light. We stopped for gas and also something to drink. Then we sat for a while in the beautiful park.

Then we were back in the car again. We continued with our climb up the serpentine road until we reached the pousada, where we planned to rest for the next few days.

We stayed for a few nights in the Pousada de São Lourenço. This Pousada is located in the Serra da Estrela Narural Park. The location of this pousada makes it an ideal place to rest while exploring the Serras.

From this mountain perch we took trips down both sides of the mountain. We returned to Manteigas and also took a drive to the next town of Gouveia. On the way to Gouveia we stopped at a small mountain stand and purchased some souvenir's and some Serra cheese.

Road down to Gouveia

The town of Gouveia really impressed us.

This is attractive, ancient town in the hills rising from the Mondego Valley. The town is filled with tiny beautiful parks, gardens and lookout points.

Town of Gouveia from the Calváris

We spent some pleasant hours walking through the town and sitting in the square in front of the church. Since the next day was Easter Sunday we decided that we would stop here for Mass before beginning our drive to Bragança.

Church in Gouveia

This turned out to be a very pleasant surprise. After the conclusion of the Mass, the Priest took the Blessed Sacrament and with the entire congregation they exited the church. The town band arrived on the scene and the entire assemblage marched around the town.

Easter Procession in Goureia

We paused for another cup of coffee in the local cafe and then we were on our way. I took the road out of town for Nabais and then onto N17 till it met IP5. At that point I found N102 and we started the senic journey to "beyond the Mountains".

After driving for miles through some breathtaking scenery the road started to wind down into a valley. The views were wonderful as we dropped the mountainside toward the Douro River. Here was the Douro River as it started its journey into Portugal, worked it way through the wine country and finally joined the Atlantic Ocean at Porto. We crossed over the bridge and just as we did we saw a boat full of sightseers coming up the stream.

Bragança lies in the heart of the province called Trás-os-montes, "behind the mountains". I was looking forward to seeing the Narural Park of Montensinho and the, I Guild International as well as perhaps a drive to Rio de Onor.

 The medieval walls and castle dominate this fortified town at Portugal's extreme northeastern corner. This area is politically and socially isolated from the rest of Portugal. And it is for this reason that I look forward to visiting this older way of life. I for one am tired of the, know it all's, and their latest study. It was also the home of the Dukes of Bragança. During the 15th century, it was made a fiefdom of the powerful Dukes of Bragança, who became Portugal's royal family in 1640 and ruled until the end of the monarchy in 1910.

I noticed that there is a lot of new construction going on in Bragança. I hope that it doesn't lose its charm to the growing demands of technology. We also visited the military museum in the Castle. It was moving to see the names of the men that had given their lives for their country. We spend the rest of a pleasant afternoon in the newer sections of the town.

Then I decided to explore Parque Natural de Montezinho. I drove out M308 enjoying the scenery of the Park.

This was a wonderful drive. The Parque is one of the wildest areas in Europe. It covers 175,000 acres between Bragança and the border with Spain. This is a region known as the Terra Fria (Cold land). Much of it is an undisturbed area, which serves as a habitat for wolfs, golden eagles, boars, otters and falcons. Little has changed from medieval times, the few villages that are seen have the typical stone houses and cobblestone streets and they have a communal rather than a national spirit. In about 26 km., we arrived at the town of Rio de Onor.

This is a fascinating town. It straddles the border with Spain. It has a communal system of ownership and a democratic electoral system that has piqued the interest of sociologists. The inhabitants cross freely from one country to the other. I think it's an example of where people have kept the old basic values that have been handed down for centuries. God and family still remain in the forefront. Technology is accepted on, as they need it, but not as the end all, or to the beginning of a perfect existence.

Church in Rio de Onor

As you walk around the town, you are impressed by the peacefulness of the town. The clean running stream, the horses and the oxen add tranquility missing in everyday life. As we enjoyed this very perfect morning the simplicity of it all was brought home as a very well dressed woman did some of her washing in the stream.

Woman doing her washing

It was a very interesting drive along route 103 on to Chaves. The route runs through the Park of Montensinho as it winds its way toward Chaves. Route 103 runs into N2 a little to the north of Chaves. You turn onto N2 and follow it into Chaves.

Chaves is the spa capital of Portugal. It is on the banks of the Tâmega River in the center of a fertile valley. We spent some time in Armazens Europa LDA, which is a very large store with quite a selection of goods. Then we ate lunch at a local restaurant drove around the town. I noticed that they were doing considerable work on the area by the river.

Bridge in Chaves

Leaving Chaves we preceded down N2 to Vila Real.

If you have been to the Trás-os-montes or the Alto Douro, perhaps you might wish to buy some of their products such as cheese, sausage, olive oil, wine, tapestry, or ceramics. You may also get information on Douro cruises and Wine tours from this site.

We left Viana do Castelo and proceeded down IC1. Worked our way around the traffic by Porto. Then picked up IP5 and made our way to Aveiro.

Aveiro is a lovely town - its canals are crossed by interesting carved wooden bridges and in the middle of town the Central Canal is lined with charming colorful houses. It was the boundless dreams of the Portuguese sailors that created this town's wealth, with its canals, tile-decorated houses, and the stirring convent of the Infanta Joana.

It is an active town which had impressive rows of cod-drying sheds standing at the edge of the ria, bearing witness to its ancient traditions.

Aveiro is a wonderful blend of the old with the new. It is a very good example of how the Portuguese have managed to retain past traditions and also incorporate some of the latest innovations.

Here right in the downtown section of Aveiro they have constructed a beautiful modern mall and blended it into the scenery.

Mall in Aveiro

The mall is filled with very exclusive shops and is a pleasant way to just walk around and enjoy the people.

We stayed in the Hotel Paloma Blanca. This was a very nice hotel and it was easy to find and also in a very convenient location to the town. It was just off the Avenida Dr. Lourenço Peixinho on the Rua L G Carvalho. You could walk slowly down the Avenida window shopping or stopping for coffee to the town on the Canal Central where the new Mall is located. Just up the hill from the mall are all the main government buildings. The hotel also has a garage available that makes it convenient for parking your car. Aveiro is also the home of a very large university.

Only 8 km. from Aveiro there are some very beautiful beaches. A beautiful lagoon separates these beaches from the mainland. These beaches alone make Aveiro well worth visiting.

We drove over one day and visited three of the beaches. We went south on N109 and then cut over to Vagueiro beach. We stopped at the Bela Vista Restaurant which is right on the beach, had a delicious meal and a pleasant chat with the waitress. I admired the painting on the wall of the oar-powered meia-luas being hauled up to the beach by the oxen. Then we went outside and viewed the beach.

Colorful meia-luas boats in Vagueiro

Then we drove up to the next beach, Costa Nova. This was another beautiful area. Here the houses are painted with colorful strips. The town has the fell of a beach town and the beaches are wonderful. We stopped and had something to drink in a nice cafe by the lagoon. Drove and walked around the town enjoying the sites.

Colorful houses in Costa Nova

Since it was on the way, I decided to also visit the last beach, Praia da Barra. This was also a beautiful beach. Since this beach is the closest to Aveiro, it will probably be more crowded than the others that are more secluded.

The old and the new in Aveiro

We left Aveiro drove out IP5 and picked up A1 for Fátima.

We wanted to visit Fátima and give thanks for the safe and healthy birth of the triplets. We also wished to give thanks for Our Lady answering our many other petitions during the past year. It was early on a Sunday morning when we left Aveiro. There wasn't much traffic on the A1 and I made very good time to Fátima. As we entered the town I noticed what seemed like a lot of people here this early. But knowing my way around fairly well, I found lot 7, which is close to the basilica. We parked the car and went in to pay our respects to the two children. Jacinta and Francisco are buried here. Since it was Sunday, we also wanted to attend Mass. I couldn't find a Mass schedule in the basilica but I knew that they had Mass ever hour in the Cova. As we emerged onto the esplanade I saw a crowd of 1,000 people and the steps of the basilica were set up for a special Mass. I guess that Oxalá ...... God is willing.

It was a very special and impressive ceremony. Conducted by the Bishop of Lisbon and many other priests. We watched as a group of men with the statue of Our Lady on their shoulder slowly moved through the crowd and ascended onto the altar. It never ceases to amaze me how we just seem to wander in at the right time to events in Portugal.

Mass at Fátima

After the Mass, we had the opportunity to visit the lovely couple in Fátima that run the Apostolic and take petitions to Our Lady. After a short enjoyable visit, we were on our way to Óbidos.

For additional information on Fátima, pictures and links click on the link below.

We have been to Óbidos twice before. There is something about this quaint town that has fascinated us. This trip we plan to spend some more time here and leisurely enjoy the people and ourselves. Since this location is also very close to some other places, we plan to see them also.

I have been captivated by Óbidos since I first visited it. My initial impression was a small vehicle entrance through a rather none descriptive wall. It was so narrow that only one car could pass at a time. This was controlled by a traffic signal. Then as you walked through this entrance, you entered a town that is like a mirage.

A church in Óbidos

Here packed within the crenellated battlements houses appear like elements of some vast sculpture. The flowing lines of their roofs set off graceful facades that are picked out with sculpted motifs and edged with ultramarine, yellows, orchards, and carmine reds. All painted and re-painted by their owners. It is truly a town of beauty and also filled with small artisan shops. Óbidos, which once was the domain of the Queens of Portugal, still remains a Queen unto itself till this very day.

We didn't stay in this Manor House Casa d' Óbidos but after seeing it we wished we had. It is very convenient to the town. A very pleasant owner showed us around the house. Each of the bedrooms and baths were beautifully decorated. There are gardens, pool, and tennis courts. There is also, an attractive two-bedroom Cottage available for renting. With the town of Óbidos in the background you have a very pleasant setting. The towns of Nazaré and Peniche with their beaches and fine fish restaurants are within easy driving distance. There are also facilities nearby for riding and playing golf. With the new highway system Óbidos is very convenient to many locations.

We had been to Nazaré and enjoyed it so one day we decided to drive over to the beaches of Peniche and Balea. This is a surfer's paradise.

Beach in Balea

This is a very impressive beach area. I marveled at the view of the sea and the sand. There was a causeway that you could drive out to some hotels and houses out further on the edge of the sea. Although the season may not be in full swing, there were a number of surfer's testing their skills.

Sintra is almost like a second home. We have always ended our trips to Portugal here. This time it will be no different but since we are spending three days here we will also see some of the other nearby sites.

We visited another Manor House Quinta de Capela here and we were very impressed with it. This manor house is in the hills of Sintra on the road to Colares. This house was very nice also. We were shown around and not only saw the house and all the antique Portuguese furniture but also the cottages that are also available on the estate. It is truly one of the most pleasant country Inns in Portugal. There is also a gymnasium, sauna and small swimming pool in a secluded part of the magnificent gardens. The owner also has a very wonderful restaurant in Colares, the Colares Velho. They took an Old Portuguese store remolded it beautifully and also added a very fine selection of food.

We left Colares on the road to Cascais. We had been told about a beach at Almoçageme that is along the way. Well we found it with out any trouble. It is a beautiful beach. There is a same cafe located there also. It was the type of beach that you could sit for hours just enjoying.

I've always known there are beaches close to Sintra. It's one of those things you start thinking of Sintra and you think Castles and not sand and surf. But now I will think of both.

Azenhas do Mar

On one of our last trips we spent a considerable amount of time driving around some of the shore areas by Sintra, it was very enjoyable.

Creation Date: 30 Jan 1999
Last update: 19 Sept 2005
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