Every since our first trip to Portugal the Portuguese people that we met always advised us to see the beauty of the North.

Entre-Douro-e-Minho, the legendary cradle of Portugal, a captivating region where the symbiosis between nature, man and tradition is so perfect that simply looking at it is a source of pure joy. Miguel Torga wrote, "Here the green tints outdo the colors of the rainbow". Over the centuries this mountainous region has become a garden in which every inch of land is cultivated. The wide valleys, with their fields and terraced pastures, climb high into the heights. The sound of murmuring water is everywhere. This water feeds wash houses, irrigates cornfields and funnels down through curious channel to the River Douro below. There is more green to be found in the vinhas de enforcado and its hanging climbing vines grown at edges of the fields which create a curtain of green along the roadsides. Confined in a deep valley, the Douro flows down between steeply sloping mountains. Having traveled through this countryside you marvel at the works of God and man.

This thriving agriculture town is on a plateau at the foot of the Marão and Alvão mountain ranges and at the confluence of the Cabril and Corgo rivers. This charming town because of its location can serve as a base for exploring the Douro River Basin.

This Manor House is located near the Famous Palace of Mateus, which is the third most visited building in Portugal. This imposing facility over looks the river Corgo and was designed by the famous Italian architect, Nicolo Nazoni and is one of the most splendid baroque palaces in Europe. This early XVIII century manor house, near Vila Real, is one of the most interesting examples of Portuguese baroque architecture. The Palace is set in an ornamental garden, which is very beautiful, surrounded by vineyards and woodlands. The Palladian proportions and excellent accoustics of the loft rooms and the adjoining chapel combine to make the Casa de Mateus a splendid setting for musical performances.

Behind the Casa are the formal ornamental gardens. It is a style from an earlier romantic era. The beds are edged with tightly clipped dwarf boxwood hedges. But perhaps the most lasting memory is the vast celebrated cedar tunnel as you walk through this tunnel you are amazed by its size. You also see the special fashioned special ladders that the gardeners have constructed to keep it trimmed.

Beyond the garden lie the well-manicured orchards that are a part of the estate.

Ornamental Garden at Matus

The Casa de Mateus has also become the prestigious symbol for the wine created by Fernando Guedes.

On the advice of our Hostess, we drove to the São Leonardo view for some exciting views of the Douro River Valley.

Another place to stay in the area is the Quinta do Paço Inn. It is a XVIII century granite manorial house, with a chapel, located about 3 km from the center of Vila Real. Open throughout the year, it offers 34 modern and spacious rooms and a presidential suite. Visitors also have at their disposal a fine restaurant (with one of the best Port Wines in Portugal), playroom, gardens, swimming pool, mini-golf, tennis, cycling and a children's park. For more information please call Tel: 259 34 07 90 or E-Mail Quinta do Paço..

Douro River Valley

After arriving back in Peso da Regua, I decided to take a drive down to Lamego. You proceed south on IP3, but before you reach the highway you climb through a very steep but beautiful ravine. Then you proceed on a beautiful new expressway into Lamego.

View from the road going to Lamego

In its past Lamego claims to have been host in 1143 to the first national assembly to recognize Afonso Henriques as the first King of Portugal.

This is a very quaint town. We parked the car walked around a little, had some coffee in a very nice shop and just sat in the Town Square enjoying the beauty of the approaching night.

Cafe in Lamego

The location of this attractive town at the edge of a valley surrounded by mountains, vineyards, and orchards, made it an important commercial center in the Middle Ages.

Built on a hilltop overlooking the town is the Nossa Senhora dos Remédios. This was built in 1761 on a small hilltop chapel originally dedicated to St. Stephen in 1391. It has sense become the focus of pilgrims devoted to the Virgin.

Nossa Senhora dos Remédios in Lamego

This old town lies on the banks of the Tâmega River at the foot of the Serra do Marão and is one of the gems of northern Portugal. At sundown or in the early morning mist, the picturesque houses with their wooden balconies leaning over the river present you with a dreamy enchantment.

The town is also known for its patron saint, São Gonçalo, a 13th century priest who gained a reputation for helping women find husbands. On the first weekend in June the festa de São Gonçalo begins with the prayers for a marriage partner followed by dancing and music. You should definitely visit the Igreja de São Gonçalo where there is a statute of the Saint. It has been worn smooth by the kisses of single women who have prayed for a good husband.

You may take leisurely repasts on the balconies of the restaurants overlooking the river, enjoy watching the paddleboats in the river, scenic walks on the paths above the town or just boating or watching the ducks swimming on the Tãmega. This is truly a very beautiful and relaxing town.

Amarante is truly a cultural crossroads: its history, monuments and traditions. It is also a hub offering the opportunity to discover Terras de Basto, Trás-os-Montes, the River Douro and is not far from the city of Porto.

Square in Amarante

The peaceful relaxing setting of this town makes you realize why so many of Portugal's great poets, Teixeiro de Pascoaes, Raúl Brandão, António Carneiro, Mário Brandão and others were attracted to it. A statue of Teixeiro is just outside the museum. This is also an area rich in Romanesque churches, Iron Age castros and strange rock formations.

Poet Teixeiro de Pasoaes

Besides offering you splendid views this Manor House also provides you with the opportunity to actually live in a working village, Travança de Monte. You could spend many pleasant hours chatting with your host or just sit back and relax and watch the farmers working the fields with their hoes and oxen.

The Village and Farms

I was very fortunate to have a personal guide to take me around the village. I promised him that I would place his picture here. He was very friendly but he wore me out fetching sticks.

My personal guide resting

The village has streets just wide enough for a oxen cart and they twist and wind their way through the village around big boulders and quaint water mills. As we were leaving one day we ran into an ox cart coming the other way. The owner was very courteous he and his wife posed for a picture and soon we were on our way.

Oxen Cart

This town is the birthplace of the first Portuguese King and the cradle of the nation. It was here that Afonso Henriques crowned himself King of Portucale in 1139 and declared the country independent from Castile. Gold and silver-smithing continue to thrive, today, as well as other crafts such as embroidery and linen weaving.

The town has also managed to preserve the architectural heritage of its squares with their medieval 18th century residences. You should begin your tour of the city at Largo da Oliveria, a square in the heart of the medieval quarter.

Largo da Oliveria Square

This is one of Portugal's most luxurious Pousadas. Just walking around the grounds and viewing the gardens is a treat. They also have a wonderful piano player in the lounge on Saturday nights. 

Pousada Court yard

As we were driving back to the Pousada from the town, we noticed cable cars running up the mountain. So we continued on up the winding road past the Pousada to the summit where the Church of Nossa Senhora Penha is located. Here you have restaurants, a small hotel, cafes, a large park and breathtaking views of the region. We also noticed a small motorized cart train that we took and experienced this beautiful Penha park. It was well worth the nominal cost to see this Park.

Penha train

We have visited Braga before, but only for a few hours. This trip we plan to spend more time in Braga and also the surrounding countryside.

Braga is one of the most beautiful towns in the region. It is the two thousand-year-old capital of the Minho Province. Here palaces sit side by side with opulent churches, wide squares and gardens full of camellias.

This holiday resort and fishing port lies at the mouth of the Lima River, with the basilica-topped hill of Monte de Santa Luzia, looming behind it.

The city's Manueline and Renaissance houses attest to its prominence in the 16th century, when it played a major role in Portugal's Age of Discovery. The area provided boats, seamen and explorers. Gold from Brazil and the early wine trade contributed to the baroque building boom in the 18th century.

Viana do Castelo is a unique place to visit. There is just something about this town that makes it feel so friendly. The warmness of the people, the large green parks looking out over the friendly river give you a true feeling of serenity. The central Praça da República is a very beautiful square and it is one of the loveliest squares in Portugal. You can just spend hours here watching the people walk by or adjourn to one of the many cafes for some pastry and coffee.

Chapel in the River

Later in the day we drove with a friend to the Basilica de Santa Luzia on Monte de Santa Luzia. We visited the Basilica and had a drink at the Pousada here. The views of Vianna are spectacular. Looking to the south you can see Porto, the River Lima and the beautiful beaches. Looking to the north you can see Spain.

View from the top of Santa Luzia

Another pleasant view is with the dome of Santa Luzia in the picture. It is truly an impressive sight.

Santa Luzia

We missed it, but we heard a lot about it. In the first weekend in August the Festas de Santa Cristina is held. There is lively folk dancing, floats, religious pageantry and the wearing of regional costumes. Viana is also called the capital of Portuguese folklore because of the number of feast days that occur in and around it.

We left Viana with a heavy heart remembering the beauty of the town, the friendly people, the award wining bacalhau and the other fine food that we had. Other memories include Mr. Eiffel's bridge , coffees at the yacht club and the long pleasant meal at the Cozinha das Malheiras.

On a subsequent visit to Viana, we stayed in the Pousada de Sta. Luzia. This is a very beautiful Pousada from which you can enjoy the view of one of the vast and beautiful landscapes of Portugal, the city of Viana do Castelo and the sea. 

We also took a drive up the coast road to Valença. You can enjoy the ocean view and also the magnificent view along the River Minho. We passed many beautiful beach areas and completely enjoyed the excursion. We also found a wonderful little shop in Seixas the Casa Dos Cobres that had a great selection of electric lamps etc. and copper and brass items.