Tanzania
part of the On the Road travelogue
This was my first taste of Africa. As I flew into the airport at
Dar, over broad rolling plains spotted by clumps of trees, and rich lines
of vegetation tracing the course of riverways, I thought to myself: Yes,
this is the land I imagined. The contrast between the Arab influenced
coast, the small inland villages, and the National Wildlife Parks was extreme,
but I found I loved it all.
Zanzibar
I had heard good things about this famous island, so (gladly) cut my time
in India short to catch a few days here before my volunteer program started.
I landed in Dar es Salaam for a night, then took one of the many ferries
to Zanzibar. Having been joined with the mainland country of Tanganyika
to form Tanzania (around 1963), Zanzibar still puts up an independent front.
I had to go through a separate immigration and passport stamping coming
right off the boat.
First thing that struck me, even before we docked, was the number of
Arab dhows that were plying the waters. These
traditional sailing vessels have been around for hundreds of years, and
boast the first sail design that let ships ride into the wind. They
had made Zanzibar the most important trading town in Africa, during the
height of Arab influence. Plus they just look cool.
Having only three days here, I managed to get around. The first
evening I spent roaming around the narrow mazelike streets of Stone Town.
This is the coolest old city that I've seen, with interesting architecture,
hidden shops, and intricately carved doorways. I met a large (rambunctious)
group of Peace Corps volunteers, and ended up hanging around with some
of them.
The next day, Michelle, Daphne, and I took one
of the many spice tours of the island. We saw a number of the historical
sights near town, then spent the afternoon touring a spice plantation.
Besides slaves, cloves made this place famous, and we saw tons of spices
and tropical fruit growing in situ. Plus we had an all you can eat
lunch that couldn't be beat. We even got some sun-time at a nearby
beach. However this small taste wasn't going to be enough; the East
coast beaches were famous for their beauty.
So the next day we rented a jeep and headed down the rough roads to
Nungwe, at the far North of the island. Wow. The water is such
an amazing color of azure, you'd think you were
in a travel magazine. We beached the whole
day, then cruised down the coast checking out the Eastern seaboard.
Plenty of beaches, boats, and rough rough roads.
Then back to Stone Town, where I caught the last ferry over to Dar to meet
my volunteer group.
Global Volunteers
Back in Dar, I hopped off the boat and checked into the hotel just in time
to be late to the first group meeting. But as this was a big segment
of my trip, I'll make a little more room for these adventures
in a separate section.
Northern Parks
After departing from all of my volunteer friends, I headed up to Arusha
to arrange some safari-ing. I ended up spending three days in Ngorongoro
Crater, Lake Manyara, and Tarangire National Park. I booked the tour
right through the hotel I stayed at, from a man known as Ali Baba.
We spent the days, along with everybody else, cruising out pop-top
Toyota on game drives through the parks. Nights we stayed in
local lodges. I was joined by a pair of German
girls, who were great company until the end, when one of the girls
came down with malaria. Didn't look too fun. Anhow, I saw plenty
of wild life: lions, giraffe, elephant,
zebra, wildebeast, various antelope, and even a
pair of rhinoceri. From here I took a bus over the border to Nairobi
- I had another group to meet.
Recommended Reading:
If you're headed out this way, you might want to check out the following:
-
Out of Africa
Forget the movie: this is one of the most lushly written, beautifully descriptive tales of Africa back in the days of the bush pilot and the great white hunter. Not to mention a true and gripping tale. It's the most lyrical of my all time favorites.
-
West with the Night
Contemporary with Isak Dinesen (Out of Africa), this book is a better adventurer's tale, more so because it is less well known. A female bush pilot presents her riveting picture of the Africa of the times through her escapades, often interceding and colliding with the same characters in Dinesen's world.
-
Lonely Planet Tanzania, Zanzibar & Pemba
Lonely Planet East Africa
Lonely Planet Africa : On a Shoestring
This series is the bible of budget and independent travel. I used it exclusively on my nine-month round the world journey, and entirely recommend it.
-
The Safari Companion : A Guide to Watching African Mammals
This is the best guidebook I've seen for not only identifying animals on safari, but for understanding their behavior. Did you know zebra are more closely related to donkeys than to horses? Even more comprehensive is the expanded tomb:
The Behavior Guide to Africa's Mammals : Including Hoofed Mammals, Carnivores, Primates
-
Lonely Planet Swahili Phrasebook
This is a good pocket-sized swahili phrasebook which I used and found valuable. Swahili is very regular and easy to learn, and I recommend at least this small book to enrich you experience. The more you reach out to the locals, the more you will get in return.
-
Concise Swahili and English Dictionary : Swahili-English/English-Swahili (Teach Yourself Books)
And this is it's big brother, for those with a more serious interest in the language, or who plan an extended stay in East Africa (Swahili is the national language of Tanzania, Kenya, and Somalia).