The  temple of Virabhadra in Lepakshi, in Anantapur district, is a store house of painting and sculpture. Its murals claim an honoured place in the annals of Hindu aesthetics. 

According to tradition the temple was built by Virupanna, helped by his brother, Viranna, in the reign of the Vijayanagar emperor, Achyutha. One day he happened to notice a small temple of Lord Papanasa on a hillock called the Kurmasaila, of the Hill  of the Tortoise, from its resemblance to a resting tortoise. This stands near the village of Lepakashi. He decided to build a  temple complex there .

As a treasure of  the empire, and possibly also as Governor  of the province of Penukonda, Virupanna had unlimited money at his disposal. This he used to build the temple, engaging famous  architects, sculptors and painters  .To begin with, he had a huge prakara wall built to enclose the Papanasa shrine and many others in its vicinity. He had many mandapas also erected within. But, mean while, envious persons told the Emperor that the treasurer had embezzled  imperial money. He ordered Virupanna to his presence. Anticipating  his punishment, Virupanna plucked out his eyes and dashed them against a wall in the temple.

Popular fancy points two red spots on the western wall. When it rains the red spots begin watering , and people say that Virupanna is weeping. According to tradition, the blinded Virupanna used to wander about the temple, of course left unfinished ,lamenting the hard fate that he had left his beloved temple in complete  and the fact that he could not see the glory of the lord.

  Virupanna  was a historical character. He built the Kalyana Venkatasavara temple in NaryanVanam, a fane associated with the Tirupati Pilgrimage.This was in 1541-42.He also made gifts to the Tirumala and Sri Kalahasti temples.From an original post of his, some thing like the Mayor of Hampi, he was promoted to high office in Penukonda and Chandragiri provinces .Tradition may have embellished the story, but that he built the Lepakshi temple in fact.

If Lepakshi's architecture is subordinated to its sculpture and painting, that is only because these two are out-standing. Its architects have made clever use of the undulating rocky surface and of the spurs on it .Some of the shrines  have these spurs as walls. A high wall encompasses the temple. On its inner side is a cloister which undulates with the rock surface .There is also another enclosure wall, but it is in complete.

The temple's plan is  irregular because of circumstances under which it was built. Its three  main parts are the Virabhadra shrine with its ardhamandapa, the mukha-mandapa, and the kalyanamandapa. All the three scintillate with painting and sculpture. The kalyan mandap is  an auxiliary structure and is unfinished.

In the main part of the temple , where the Virabhadra shrine stands, there are eight shrines in all. On one of the sixteen heavy pillars here each carrying life-size sculptors of  divinities, there is an image of Goddess Mahishamardhani, which is the main  object of worship today. On the ceiling is a huge  and celebrated painting of Lord Virabhadra.

The  mukhamandapa, an oblong structure 24 m by 7 m, is borne on seventy brilliantly sculptured columns. There are sixty more in the outer rows. Two of them hardly rest on the ground, they are virtually hanging  pillars. There are paintings all over the ceiling.

The other mandapa of  note, the kalyana, has thirty-eight sculptured  monolithic columns. They carry a veritable gallery of divine   figures. The western part, the "hall of creepers", as it is called, is made up of forty-two pillars. These carry designs of flower and stalk and also geometrical designs. Textiles designers frequently copy these.

Three huge boulders in the second prakara carry striking sculpture .One is the lord Ganesha. It is 2.3 m high, and it stands on on a pedestal 1.40 m high.Nearby is a huge Linga under a seven hooden cobra, a monolithic sculpture 5.5 m high. There  is a spilt in  the centre  of the base. According to the local legend, one of the sculptors at work in the temple made the figure during his rest hours. When his mother brought him  his meal and saw the sculpture, she was surprised. She expressed her  surprised praise .There upon the best spilt of its own accord. A mother's  praise of her son  was considered inauspicious. The third sculpture is a low relief of the Kannappa story, as related above (Sri Kalahasti temple)

 About 200m, north east  of the temple stands India's  second largest monolith, the celebrated  Lepakshi Nandi, which is smaller only  then the image of Gomatesvara, the Jain saint, on the hill of Sravanabelgola (Karnataka). It is 8.25 m long  and 4.6 m high. Though massive, it is a real work of art, of sounds  proportions and absolutely realistic. On one of the chains round the neck there is the insignia of the "Ganda-bherunda", a double-headed   eagle.This originated in Takshasila,the ancient university city, now in Pakisthan, a place which Alexander the Great and  Emperor Ashok knew.The Vijayanagar Rayas used it, and from them the wodeyears of Mysore .So in a historical accident , did the Kaisers of  Imperial Germany. Three other large Nandis in  the country are in  the Thanjavur Brahadisvara temple (Tamilnadu), on the Chamundi Hills, over looking Mysore (Karnataka), and in the Bull Temple, in  Basavangudi, a suburb of Bangalore (Karnataka)

The entire Lepakshi temple most originally have been painted.The survivals are on the ceilings of the mukhamandapa, the ardhamandapa, and the sancta. But with infinite labour the Archological Survey of India has been restoring murals in some other parts of the temple.

The paintings are in the finest classical style. There are full of vitality, and they depict intense drama. Technically, they are in single plane, there being no attempt to suggest depth. Often the painter is content with telling his story. But in doing so he brings so his tasks not only his individual skill but also the accumulated traditions of his day. Here on these walls, sixteenth century South India comes alive.

There are eight rectangular painted panels  on the ceiling of the mukhamandapa. In the centre is a square. Its four sides have been made in to one panel. On both sides there are  each on either side, extending north to south.

The longest panel in the mandapa, about 18 m from east to west, is very narrow, only 2m wide. Here is painted
the story of king Manunidhi Chola, an old  Tamil Nadu  tradition associated with the temple  of Sri Tyagaraja, in Tiruvarur. He setup a bell in his palace which those who were aggrieved could ring in order to draw his attention. One day his own son and heir, driving his chariot, ran over and killed a calf. Its mother, the cow rang the  palace  bell and complained. The king ordered that his son be run over by the same chariot. The Gods, pleased with the king's sense of justice, restored the prince and the calf to  life. This story is recaptured     on the ceiling in a series of  incidents. It is told vividly and dramatically.

A panel at the eastern end tells the story of Draupadi's marriage with the Pandavas. The famous incident of Arjuna shooting with bow and arrow a revolving fish target while looking at its reflection in water below has been rendered with spirit.There is another mural rendering of the same theme in the Virupaksha temple in Hampi. In the next panel no story is told.It depicts Sri Krishna as a Baby, recalling the famous prayer in Kulasekhara's splended hymn,the "Mukundamala".In another scene Lord Virabhadra is conferring grace on the builders of the temple, Virupanna and Viranna. They are stately figures wearing  conical  caps.

The next panel depicts the marriage of Lord Siva with Goddess Parvathi.The  Dikpalakas, or the Guardians of the Directions, are also shown. In the panel around the square at the center is told the story of how Arjuna obtained a celestial weapon from Lord Siva to use in the impending battle with the Kauravas. Narrated in  a famous Sanskrit poem of Bharavi in the seventh century, the "Kiratarjuniyam", it was very popular as a theme of painting and sclupture all over the country down the ages .The best known representation is in Mamallapuram(in Tamil Nadu), where in the world's largest open air bas relief, the pallava artists made one of supreme achievements of art.In Lepakshi, it is told both as painting and as bas relief.

Arjuna performs severe penance in order to obtain the weapon. To test him Lord Siva, as a hunter, accompanied by goddess parvathi and their retinue, go to meet him. At the moment both  observe a boar running by. Both shoot their arrows at it. Both claim the pray, and a furious contest ensues. Finally, the Lord reveals Himself and  grants Arjuna his wish.

This is the story the Lepakshi painter depicts in a number of  scenes. He evokes life in dense forest. The animals are in sympathy with the changing moods, as he has observed them . He is an acute observer. In this panel  there are a few  scenes unrelated to the story.

The story of how Ravana, who had own the Atma Linga  from Lord Siva, was made by Sri Vinayaka to part with it is told in  another panel.Yet another narrates some scenes from the "Ramayana". The eighth panel is badly damaged.

The ardhamandapa paintings depict fourteen forms of Lord Siva and one of Devi. The  former included Lingodbhavamurti, Andhakasuramardhanamurti, Dakshinamurti, Chandesaanugrahamurti, Bhikshatanamurti, Harihara, Ardhnarisva, Kalyanasundara,Tripurantaka, Gauriprasadaka and Nataraja. The other depictions here are not identifiable. The form of Devi too can not be identified. But this painting is one of the most beautiful of women that Indian art, in all its range knows.

Asia's largest painting is on the ceiling of the sanctum; it is set in a huge rectangular panel about 7.6 m by by 4.3 mm. Around the main figure of Lord Virabhadra there are panels. The main painting is "mostly in gray, with strong, evenly flowing black lines all over". Its  technique is different from that of the others in the temple. "The drawing is strong, the colour subdued, and it acquires the appearance of a gigantic figure floating in and dominating the whole sky.T hough no physical and outward  movement  is attempted in this painting , it is internally dynamic.This achieved by the innumerable rhythmic, dark, evenly flowing lines on gray, which cover entire picture,detailing and illuminating every part. This remains a masterpiece of all time in Indian art, not simply by its size, but by the orginal treatment given by the un-known  immortal artists of Lepakshi".At the bottom of this magnificent composition Virupanna, with his family, is offering obeisance to the Lord. A beautiful boarder of textiles designs frames this masterpiece.

Elsewhere  on the ceilings in this area there is what some scholars consider the story of the origin of the Hoysala dynasty of kings in early mediaeval Karnataka, which built three temples i.e., Belur, Halebid and Somnathpur. The story is that the name of the dynasty, Hoysala, derives from an incident when a sage directed a boy, named Sala, to kill, or "hoy", a lion which had intruded into their hermitage. Many Hoysala temples  contain lithic sculptures depicting a individual stabbing a lion. whether this incident is historical or not , obviously the Hoysalas themselves believed that it was.A variant of the story seems to be depicted in the Lepakashi mural. A prince in hunting a spotted cheetha, it entres the hermitage of an ascetic and tries to kill a boy there. In the next composition the boy is stabbing the animal. Else where in the panel a king and a number of women are worshipping Lord Siva.

There are many more paintings on the ceilings here. Some are of Lord Siva and Goddess Parvathi. In the Raghunatha  shrine, the ceiling contains murals of seven of Lord Vishnu's incarnations, the Matsya, the Kurma, the Varaha, the  Parsurama and the Rama. Two panels nearby are left bare. This fact, like the unfinished kalyana mandapa, indicates that the temple could not be completed .

The sculptures in the temple, considered as a whole, fall in to many divisions. There are divine images, two stories are told in the narrative style, there are human representations from a study of which the scholar  may obtain  an idea of the social life of the day, there are floral, geometric and abstract designs, particularly in the kalyanamandapa, some of which have been limited by textiles designers."Lepakshi saris" are popular. Finally there are reliefs of bird, animals, tree and plant.

The two sculptural stories are those of Siriyala and Arjuna's quest for weapons to use in the war  against the Kauravas. Thus, the latter story is depicted in Lepakshi in two forms, in lithic relief as well as mural.

Both stories appear in a continuing series of  reliefs on the walls of the ardhamandap. On both sides  of the entrance from this mandapa into the sanctum there are three long parallel bands of relief. In the top band,55 centimetres wide, swans march in procession. In the bottom band,71 centimetres wide swans march in procession. In the bottom band, 71 centimetres at its widest there is a march of elephants. It is in the central band, about 61 cm wide, that the two stories are told.

The Siriyala story takes up a total length of 10 m.The Arjuna story is longer, almost 15m.Both are masterly achievements, concise but pointer, dramatic, clear.

But these qualities are  among the least we could expect of the Lepakshi artists. In this temple, if any where in the country, they have produced a perfect synthesis of architecture, sculpture and mural. Yet the temple is unfinished. But then it is very incompleteness is an expression of the indomitable Hindu spirit that, on the eve of Raksas Tangdi in 1565,faced a sea of troubles and overcome it. 

VENKETESWARA TEMPLE | SRI KALAHASTISVARA TEMPLE | SAIVAITA TEMPLE | DANDAYUTHAPANI TEMPLE

VIRABHADRA TEMPLE | MINAKSHI TEMPLE | BHAGABATHI TEMPLE | HOYSALA TEMPLE | VIDYASANKARA TEMPLE

SRI KRISHNA TEMPLE (UDUPI) | SRI KRISHNA TEMPLE | BHARADARAJA PERUMAL TEMPLE | SRI RAM TEMPLE

SRI NATARAJA TEMPLE | LORD SHINISVARA TEMPLE | LORD ANNAMALAI & GODDESSS UNAMMALAI TEMPLE

RAMANATHA TEMPLE | RANGANATHA TEMPLE | JAMBUKESVARA & AKHILANDESVARI TEMPLE

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