SMLPIPER.GIF

Set-up Tips for Beginning Pipers
by
Vince Janoski


Are you a beginner or ultra-newbie? If you are, you probably know a half-dozen tunes and maybe play about 4 of them on the full bagpipe. You may have a drone or two working, and you may be struggling to play for the length of an entire parade. At times, it probably feels like the bagpipe is fighting you or doing its best to prevent you from playing to your full abilities.

All these are normal experiences.

I can remember a time when I could barely blow the chanter reeds I was given, nevermind drone reeds. Images pop in my head of ratty, blackened, gnarled cane that was supposed to produce some sort of sound. Well, it produced sound alright, but not what you would want to hear from an efficient, well set-up set of Highland bagpipes.

And that's what we're talking about here. The ultimate goal, as you progress and learn, is to create an efficient bagpipe set-up that serves you well and maximizes your learning experience. Your bagpipe should be comfortable to play so that you can, well, play it! Ask any piper with any amount of experience and they will tell you stories of leaky bags, turning hemp, loose drones, broken reeds--the list is endless. All pipers have experienced these things along the way of their playing progress. All of it interferes with your ability to play the instrument.

You will do yoursef a world of good by putting everything possible in your favor. The bagpipe relies on a long list of elements that must all work together. Think of the bagpipe as a machine. A machine must have all its screws and bolts tightened, all parts properly lubricated, and all the parts in good working condition with no damage for the machine to work efficiently. The bagpipe is no different. Below is a list of simple areas to check and fix to ensure that your bagpipe is working properly. Follow it and monitor these items regularly, and the instrument will always be working for you, not against you.

BAG: Do not accept a leaky bag. Make sure your bag is completely airtight. Take apart your pipes so that you have just a "goose." Cork up all the stocks except the blowstick. Fill the bag until you cannot blow into it anymore and let it sit for a few minutes. Now blow into it again. If you can blow even part of a full breath back into the bag, you've got a leak somewhere. It should remain filled and not deflate on its own when it sits. Check the seam of the bag. Check the joints where the stocks are tied or clamped in. You will have to fill the bag and squeeze it with your hands to get air flowing through the leaks. You can test all of these areas with some water and dishsoap. Place some soapy water around each area and squeeze the bag. If there is a leak, even a small one, you will see bubbles. Find the spot and fix it. There are many ways to fix these kinds of leaks. The best ways is just to season the bag if it is hide, or re-clamp or fix the holes if it is synthetic. Ask for help if you are unsure how to do this (Repairs and fixes are lenghty topics for the future.)

HEMP: The magic string. All the joints on your instrument should be freshly hemped and snug. Pay close attention to the joints where the drones are in the stock. None of them should be loose. You are losing air through them if they are loose, most definitely. Ideally, it should take some effort to turn them and pull them out. Your tuning slides should be snug enough to stay put, but not too tight where you cannot turn them up and down the slide with one hand. Adjust the amount of *waxed* hemp in all of these areas to make it so. Take some off, add a strand, whatever it takes. You will need to do this periodically because hemp shrinks and swells with changes in the environment. If your hemp is dry or stringy, it means one of three things: you are not playing enough; it is old and needs to be replaced; or both. If your hemp is not moving when you turn your drone, cut it all off and re-do it. Wax your hemp with black cobbler's wax at the beginning of one full wrap to make it stick. The rest of the wraps can be plain bee's wax. You can also use the pre-waxed hemp that many pipers are now using (black or yellow).

CHANTER REEDS: Do not accept a chanter reed that is too hard for you to play. Do not accept a chanter reed that is cracked, chipped, or otherwise damaged. You should be able to play the reed with the chanter out of the bag. If you cannot, it is too hard. The reed should be clean and white, with no black spots or bad discoloration. If someone has given you a pre-played reed, it will be a little discolored, and that is OK. Any reed that is pre-played should still be undamaged, however. It will be impossible for you to practice and play effectively if you have a reed that is too hard, or in poor condition. The reed will not perform well if it is damaged. You will just squeak and squawk your way through tunes with it. Be mindful to treat your chanter reed with care. They are delicate. Many a reed is chipped or broken simply by rough handling when putting it into your stock or pulling it out. If this happens, don't worry, simply get another one.

DRONE REEDS: If you playing one or two or three drones, you are likely playing one of the many synthetic drone reeds out there. It is important that they be air efficient and balanced. See "Set-up Tips for Synthetic Drone Reeds" for details on how to get them working efficiently.

Check the above areas regularly to ensure that you are getting the most from your playing time. You will learn faster, mainly because you will be playing more because your instrument is more comfortable to play. You will also notice that you will practice for longer periods of time before you get tired since your bagpipe is working like an efficient machine. As you progress, and your understanding of your own instrument grows, you can check out "Comfortable Bagpipe Set-up for Steady Playing" for more advanced tips.

Vince Janoski 03/2001

Ar Aghaidh le Ceol na n Gael.

 


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