HOUSING:
An aquarium with a screen lid is appropriate.
A vita-lite (full spectrum light) should be placed over the screen (no
glass between the light and the lizard). Adding an incandescent light
at one end provides a basking spot where the lizard may warm up. This
creates a warm end and a cool end to the cage so that the lizard may
move about to adjust its body temperature. A basking (incandescent)
light is not needed by all types of chameleons. Humidity and temperatures
vary with the species kept.
Branches of asoze that their feet can grip easily should be added. Real
or artificial plants should be provided to give the chameleon a place
to hide. If you use real ones make sure that you wash them first to
remove insecticide or fertilizer residue. Also make sure that they are
not poisonous.
A substrate is not necessary. Some substrates can cause hemipene plugs
and infections and can be ingested along with the food which can
result in intestinal impactions. Mactac attached UNDER the cage will
prevent the chameleon from constantly trying to get through the bottom
glass.
FOOD AND WATER:
Crickets, wax worms, and silk worms
dusted with calcium and vitamin D and a vitamin/mineral powder will
provide the main diet. The food should be of a size that the lizard
can easily digest. A chameleon will likely consume 10 to 12 crickets
3 times a week. Feed babies daily. Some chameleons will become omnivore
upon maturity and are then provided with vegetables, fruit, plant leaves,
etc.
Water should be provided by a drip system or by misting the plants
and sides of the cage. This should be done every day. Do it more than
once a day for babies. A water dish may be placed in the cage if extra
humidity is needed.
HEALTH:
When selecting a chameleon look to see
that the eyes are not sunken in but rather protruding. Choose
a chameleon that has no deep longitudinal ridges in its tail. Even a
sick chameleon can have plump body. The soft pads on its head should
not be sunken in either. Look for alertness and good color. Check for
swellings, deformities of the arms or lower jaw, and for any apparent
external damage.
A fecal sample can be checked by a veterinarian for parasites.
ODD PIECES OF INTERESTING
INFORMATION:
Never forcibly remove a chameleon from
a branch. Let it "walk" off on it own. If you force it you could cause
damage to its joints, toenails or even break bones.
Feed your insects well. What goes into them will go into your chameleon.
Always quarantine a new chameleon for at least 6 weeks. Some can carry
viruses, parasites or bacteria that can be passed on to other chameleons.
Most chameleons should be house individually.
Some chameleons have a drop reflex when handled so be careful that they
don't just suddenly let go and drop to the ground. Some run blindly
to escape.
Some chameleons "waddle-walk" in an attempt to not be noticed. (Back
and forth rocking motion with eventual ,movement forward.)
BODY LANGUAGE AND COLOR:
Gaping, hissing, bright colors with
a vertically flattened body held at an angle to the opponent, a high
stance, tail curled when done by a male indicates aggression.
Pale colors and gaping with a thinned body indicates overheating.
A dark coloration with an expanded body that is slanted to catch the
rays of the sun indicate desire to warm up.
Pale coloration, tail curled, body resting on the branch indicates desire
to sleep.
Bright colors and a bobbing head when done by the male indicates desire
to mate.
Females darken their color, hiss and gape and rock back and forth when
repelling the male.
A females color will indicate her willingness to mate, and a different
color and pattern will show that she is gravid.
The above information on keeping chameleons in captivity
has come mostly from my own experience. Others may have their own way
of keeping them, but this has worked for me. I have bred several kinds
of chameleons and kept some kinds for extended periods of time.
I hope this will provide enough information that people will be able
to successfully keep their chameleons in captivity as well.
Good Luck! Happy herping! Lynda Horgan
   
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