Aspiring Climbers

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A man ought to rate his achievements only by the satisfaction they give him for they will soon be outdone, outshone and speedily forgotten by everyone but himself.

Bill Tilman, explorer and mountaineer, 1898 ~ 1979.

Mont Blanc Massif

	Choosing a route
	Preparations
	Equipment
	The Rules of the Game
	Enthusiasm and Clear Thinking
	Free and Artificial Climbing
	Keeping to Time
	Grading

For those who are visiting the Western Alps for the first time, it's advisable to check out the access to the Mountain Huts. Mountain huts system is common to the western alps and many parts of the world. Some would debate that, we should leave the mountains alone. Why build huts? But remember, these huts have save the lives of many aspiring climbers, who are still going through their years of apprenticeship. As the Alps is regarded as the training ground for the greater ranges, inevitably you will see that many people have not develops their vital skills in good judgment and survival in the ever unpredictable full forces of nature. Mountaineering like all other sports, is a very big field that takes time to learn and practice. There is absolutely no hurry to jump into the professional level. Don't forget, the key word is, "enjoyment".

The Western Alps have always been challenging and fascinating. I have particular affection with 2 mountain village that I have frequently stayed on most of my visits to France. These villages set in the heart of the massif Mont Blanc Range. To the serious climbers and trekkers, Argentiere and Chamonix are one of the most beautiful place on earth.

~ Choosing a route ~

Which peak to climb? By what route? why? When and how? With who?

This is the sort of question, serious, absorbing, that the climber asks himself. First of all, perhaps a year before his trip to the mountain, when he is dreaming of the climbs he will do and drawing up a programme for his next season, then later on, when he has arrived in the mountains and has to adjust his plans and his ambitions to the weather and the conditions.

The ascent of any route begins, in dreams at least. Name of mountains, aiguilles, faces, pillars and ridges. Is it the mountain itself which is so tempting, or the pictures of the mountain, or does the appeal come from our feeling for the actual process of climbing? There are many reasons.

For whatever the reasons are, anticipation is the first step in a confrontation. Anticipate whatever that could happen on the climb and with ourselves. Try asking ourselves these few question below and take the time to think about it.

Which route are we to choose? Which difficulties of all kinds are we to face? What pleasures and delights are to expect? What is our standards in terms of physical and mental strength? Who are you to climb with? What advantages do we hope to gain?

Naturally, there is the pleasure we get from the climbing process itself and from the victories. Besides all these, there is also a process coming every time as a surprise, of self-discovery, deepening a little further with every climb: who we are, how far we can go, what is our potential, where are the limits of our technique, our strength, our skill, our mountaineering sense. Discoveries of all these acceptance means that, if necessary, we may turn back as one step too far is already too far, and return another time, several time if need be.... "tomorrow is a new day".

~ Preparations ~

There are two quite different sorts of danger inherent in climbing. The first being the objective dangers due to poor rock and rockfalls, to snow with its crevasses and snow bridges, cornices, seracs and avalanches, to bad weather, with mist, wind, storms and thunderstorms. Then there are the subjective dangers arising from the climber's own competence and personality.

As far as an alpine season is concerned, serious training is required. Rock outcrops can give an excellent grounding in rock climbing techniques - including abseiling (one of the top killer in mountaineering). Where ice climbing is concerned, it is a very good idea to spend some time on the lower glaciers, practising techniques. Walking in crampons is awkward and requires a different sort of balance and flexibility, as well as being rather tiring for the ankles. Climber need to be familiar with using ice axe, a technique which will vary according to the angle of the slope and the quality of the ice or snow. Step cutting with ice axe should also be mastered at low altitudes so that he will be able to cut steps efficiently and with relative ease at 4000 metres or more.

Training in rock and ice techniques and rope management must be accompanied by training for general fitness. The climber will need considerable stamina as well as being well acclimatised. This general require consistent long-distance run, especially cross-country, together with long sessions on outcrops - six to eight hours at a stretch.

Before setting out, climber should make a study of weather forecasts (next 24 hours and further outlooks of a general sort). If intend to do a route which will take several days, it is worth taking a barometric altimeter. It is also quite essential to wear a helmet. This affords the only effective protection against a fractured skull brought about by stonefalls or by a climbing fall.

~ Equipment ~

Since the golden age, equipment has enormously improved. The over-loaded beginner is a common sight in alpine villages. Judging what kit is essential and what you can do without is a fundamental Alpine skill, so the distinction must be made between essential and luxuries and you should have a feeling for the relative importance of various items. Being over-loaded not only slow you down but make the whole climb a miserable experience. These decisions are not always simple.

As a general guide, (climbing alpine rock routes) always check all your equipment before embarking on any climb's. If in doubt, it's better to have it changed soon rather than a little too late.

	On most middle-grade climbs and where long rappels are not anticipated, parties tend to use a single 10.5 to 11mm rope. They will carry a few hexentrics, wires, slings for spikes and plenty of karabiners for the in situ pegs.
	On modern rock routes, a minimum of 45m double rope and a full rack of hexentrics, wires, Friends will probably be advisable.
	On less frequented climbs, difficult pitches may require knifeblades, RP's, even the use of skyhook for runners or a very bold approach.

Other necessary gears require for approach and bivy can be found through many manuals now available on the craft of Alpinism.

~ The Rules of the Game ~

	Bad weather - You should keep an eye on things like unexpected storms, high winds, unpredictable cloud, freezing cold, potential avalanche slopes, falling seracs, snow bridges which become very fragile at certain times, verglas on the face, thick mist or nightfall. All of them are as important as dry rock or good cramponning snow. You should never undertake any route unless you are certain of being able to reverse it at certain point or from the summit in poor weather. Climber should understand that pressure and temperature rise and fall according to another law of physics.
	Nervous tension - Because of the numerous number peaks, with their faces and ridges, one tends to do a number of routes in a very short time. There is the danger in the lack of approach, which can provides some mental relaxation. Also to do so many routes one after another, there is no relaxation from strain, and this can perhaps lead to accidents.
	Commitment - Climbing is a sport, but climbing in the mountains, like ocean-racing or crossing a desert, takes place in rather different conditions from those common run of sports. A runner, a boxer or a rugby-player, however serious he is, can always retire from the field if he is overcome by fatigue, having pushed himself too far or started off too fast. He can push himself to the limits, drop exhausted and be carried off to rest immediately. But a climb is not a sort of game which can be stopped at any time. Even if you are at the limits of endurance, if your feet feel like lead, even if nothing but an extreme effort of will keeps you going, you cannot sit down and say: 'I've had enough, I'm giving up.' This is the hardest of rules to accept, but it is nevertheless an attraction. On every ascent the climber must risk his whole self.

~ Enthusiasm and Clear Thinking ~

For alpinism, two things are needed: enthusiasm and clear thinking.

Enthusiasm - Carry heavy racksack, sleep in tent, no bath for days, too hot then too cold, probably hungry, undoubtedly thirsty. In short, to be able to turn away from your comfortable habits in your normal lifestyle.

Clear thinking - is a question of knowing one's own limits. During the climb, it means being able to make an honest assessment of the situation, not so easily done since it means being able to stand back and evaluate, uninfluenced by one's emotions or one's ambitions, the difficulties remaining in the climb, as compared with the strength of the party, so that an intelligent decision can be made whether to go on or turn back. This is an extraordinary and very rewarding self-examination.

~ Free and Artificial Climbing ~

There is no hard and fast rule about the style of climbing. Everybody is free to climb as he likes, but it is preferable that routes should be done correctly and well. Pitons could be used in two very specific situations: firstly for belaying, secondly for artificial climbing where all free climbing possibilities have been exhausted.

Artificial climbing is something more laborious, whereas free climbing is lighter and less cumbersome, and therefore more satisfying. Free climbing has a great sense of satisfaction in route-finding which leads us to find the best and the least resistant line of ascent. To search out the hold and to progress as if by instinct from pitch to pitch.

~ Keeping to Time ~

Generally speaking, doing an alpine route takes something in the range of 1 to 4 days. The walk in to the base or the hut, the climb itself - 1 to 2 days, and the walk out. Try to reach the base or the hut early so as to sort out the start of the path or the climb. For certain routes, it's a good idea to have a look at the condition of the bergschrund. Having an idea of all these conditions prevent unwanted surprises that will prolong the time taken for the entire climb.

Speed is another important factor in keeping to time. Moving quickly and efficiently on varies alpine terrain requires a wide range of skills. Moving quickly does not mean an uncontrolled frantic rush. Moving quickly is about avoiding time wastage and taking decisions efficiently. To be efficient, you will probably need to move together at some point. Moving together involves shortening the rope by taking coils. The length of the rope is dependant on terrain. While you are moving at the same time placing runners or even taking belays for short difficult sections. Speed comes fundamentally with techniques and efficiency, not short cuts.

~ Grading ~

Grading of climbs is determined not only by the general level of technical difficulty but also by the seriousness of the enterprise as reflected by the associated objective danger, length, altitude and commitment.

Shorter rock climbs that are often terminated below the summit of the peak, where a quick and efficient rappel descent can be made back down the route, are given an overall numerical grading. This grading is generally the hardest section encountered and the route description or topo will indicate whether or not the climb is sustained at that level. Other routes and all mixed or snow/ice climbs are given an adjectival grading. (F -easy, PD -not very hard, AD -fairly hard, D -hard, TD -very hard, ED -extremely hard, ABO -abnormally hard)

On traditional rock climbs, unless otherwise stated, the overall grading reflects a free ascent even though there are many in situ protection on various pitches. Certain climbs, graded from AD to TD, although not technically demanding under good conditions, are extremely serious for their grade.

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me at wtbl@starhub.net.sg, I welcome any comment.