Tupameros Area

The Details: While this is one of the larger patches of that eye-catching "orange stuff" on this side of Hollow Mountain, unfortunately it doesn't really work for climbing all that well. On the other hand, this area sees absolutely ZERO climbers, which is pretty amazing considering that there is a couple of really good routes (admittedly 2 of them are bloody hard!). So, make sure you at least check it out sometime, it's quite inspiring to wander around the ledge. With a lengthy walk-off descent to crush your toes, this is also one of those (numerous!) areas which would benefit massively from a few rap stations... though I'm sure I'll get castrated for even suggesting it!

Access: 15min walk. Drive to the Hollow Mountain carpark at the far northern end of the Grampians, next to Mt Zero. 3hrs from Melbourne, 30mins from Horsham, 10mins from Stapylton campground. Follow the signposted trail to Hollow Mountain, which deposits you at the base of the incredible overhanging Sandinista Wall. Follow the monstrous painted arrows L along the base for about 30m. The lower tier starts here and extends about 60m further to the left. For the upper tier, follwo the tourist trail where it turns sharply back R up a scrambly chasm which breaches the cliffline. Once on top, contour left along the clifftop, about 10m back from the edge, with one quite exposed bit just past Hamster Roof, and another near Red October.

Guidebook(s): North Grampians, Andrews, p171-173, North Grampians Update, Andrews, p24-25, Grampians Selected Climbs, Mentz/Tempest, p82-83
Available Grades: 17-24
Descent(s): An annoying scrambly walk over the back into the chasm between Echoes Block and Red Wall.

A view of Wudjub Guyan (Hollow Mountain) from the summit of Mt Zero. Tupameros Area is the mostly shaded orange bowl at far left and halfway up the photo, with various other crags and bouldering areas also indicated (see my other pages for those areas).

A more front-on view of Tupameros Area as viewed on the walk in. While the lower tier is largely obscured by the trees, the upper tier is obvious. From left to right the marked routes on the upper tier are Red October (30), Firepower (* 22), and Hamster Roof (* 26).

* Firepower Pitch 3 20m 22 (YP)
A really attractive steep orange corner crack which leads to a fantastic steep crux. Heaps steeper than you expect! The initial corner goes quite nicely...but not everything that looks like a jug is a jug.... Then you get a big rest to contemplate what is practically a roof before you turn the lip. You'll probably return to this after placing gear and sussing moves, but once you do commit you'll find good incut finger jugs in a hidden flake out left, and then you need to find the key jug on the lip before pumping off all the slopers! Turning the lip was an absolutely fantastic move, I recall going almost hands free while still mostly upside down thanks to an incredible kneebar which just unlocks the whole thing. To here is totally 2 stars, but then you have to doddle up left for 10 metres then do the lengthy walk down. Rap station anyone....?

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