Chapora to Arambol
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The
ride up the coast between Chapora and Arambol offers the opportunity
to detour to some relatively deserted beaches. The trip also
involves crossing the Chapora River by vehicle ferry at Siolim.
A monstrous bridge from Siolim to Chopdem is nearing completion,
which will unfortunately put an end to this ferry ride.
From
Chopdem you can head east to Morjim Beach, which has a handful of
beach shacks and several places to stay at its northern end.
Rare olive Ridley turtles nest at the southern end of Morjim Beach
from September to February, so this is a protected area.
Continuing
north, you pass through Asvem Beach on the way up to Mandrem Beach,
a peaceful area with some great places to stay. As with Morjim
the beach is not idyllic to look at, but it's a good place to get
away from it all.
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Arambol (Harmal)
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| Although
Arambol is one of Goa's more far flung beaches, travelers have been
drifting up here for years and a mushrooming industry of facilities
is appearing to service them. Arambol is still a good place to
get away from the crowds, but not if you want complete solitude.
The beach is an
open and fairly deserted stretch of clean sand with a rocky headland
at the northern end. The main beach is good for swimming, but
over the headland are several more attractive bays.
Arambol village is
quiet and friendly, with just a few hundred locals, most fishing
people. Accommodation here is still pretty basic, but there's
enough of it, along with restaurants, travel agencies (handling
foreign exchange), Internet and other services. Most of this
is concentrated on the road leading to the northern end of the
beach. There are also a few stores back in the village.
The headland at
Arambol is popular place for paragliding. There's an outfit
based at the Relax Inn (on the beach) which charges Rs. 900 for a
tandem flight and also offers certified courses.
Buses from Mapusa
stop on the main road at Arambol, where there's a church and a few
shops. From here, a side road leads 1km down to the village
and the beach is about 500m further on.
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Terekhol Fort
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| At
Terekhol (Tiracol), on the north bank of the river of the same name,
is a small Portuguese fort with a little church within its
walls. It's now a hotel, the Hotel Tiracol Fort Heritage
(02366-68248), which is a peaceful and atmospheric place to
stay. There's little else here, but the setting is
spectacular, and the rooms in the old fort are unique.
Singles/doubles are Rs. 800/850, and the deluxe suites (complete
with huge circular bath) cost Rs. 1750. The owners organize
backwater boat trips up the Terekhol River.
The trip to the
fort makes a good outing on a motorcycle, and you could stop for a
swim on deserted Querim Beach.
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