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Jammu & Kashmir

Warning for Travelers to Jammu & Kashmir

There are strong cultural and geographical contrasts in J&K.  The Kashmir Valley, or Vale of Kashmir, is a fertile, verdant region enclosed by the high snow-capped ridges of the Pir Panjal range to the west and south, and the main Himalaya range to the east.  It's population is over 60% Muslim, with a rich Islamic history that can be traced back to the 14th century.  South of Kashmir Valley is the region of Jammu.  It includes the city of Jammu, situated on the north Indian plains, a short distance from the rolling Siwalik Hills.  North of Siwaliks, the rest of the Jammu region is drained by the Chenab River whose vast catchment area includes several narrow valleys that extend deep into the high Himalayas.  The region of Jammu is predominantly Hindu, although there are small Muslim communities in the vicinity of Banihal and Kishtwar immediately south of the Kashmir valley.

The political violence in the Kashmir Valley since the late 1980s has discouraged most travelers from visiting the region.  Until 1989, a stay on the famous houseboats of Dal Lake close to the city center of Srinagar was considered a must for anyone visiting northern India, while the treks out of Gulmarg, Sonamarg and Pahalgam were among some of the most popular in the Himalayas.  Before the outbreak of violence, more than 600,000 Indian tourists and 60,000 foreign tourists visited Kashmir throughout the summer season, from early June until mid-October.

Jammu & Kashmir - History
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Jammu Region
STD Code: 0191
Population: 260,000

Jummy is J&K's second-largest city and its winter capital.  In summer it is a sweltering contrast to the cool heights of Kashmir.  From October it becomes much more pleasant.  Jummy actually consists of two towns.  The old town sits on a hilltop overlooking the river, and several kilometers away across the river is the new town of Jammu Tawi.

Jammu to Srinagar

Along the Jammu to Srinagar route are the hill resorts of Katra, Kud, Patnitop and Batote.  Four million pilgrims walk the 12km from Katra to the Vaishno Devi cave shrine each year.  East of Kud and Patnitop is the improtant Sudh Mahadev Shiva Temple.  Farther along, Sanasar is a beautiful valley where Gujar shepherds gather each summer.

Before the completion of the Jawahar tunnel, Shrinagar was often cut off from the rest of India.  The 2.5km-long tunnel is 200km from jammu and 93km from Shrinagar and has two separate passages; inside it's very damp and full of fumes.  From Banihal, 17km south of the tunnel, the Kashmiri region begins and people speak Kashmiri as well as Dogri.  At the northern end of the tunnel is the lush Vale of Kashmir.

Kashmir Valley
This is one of the most beautiful regions of India, but since 1989 it has been racked by political violence.

Among Kashmir's greatest attractions were the Dal Lake houseboats.  During the Raj period Kashmir's ruler would not permit the British (who were as fond of Kashmir's cool climate as the Mughals) to own land here.  So they adopted the solution of building houseboats - each one a little bit of England afloat on Dal Lake.  A visit to Kashmir was not complete until you had stayed on a houseboat.

Srinagar

STD Code: 0194
Population: 725,000

Srinagar, the summer capital of Kashmir, stands on Dal Lake and the picturesque Jhelum River.  It is a city with a distinctly Central Asian flavor; when you head south from Srinagar it is always referred to as 'returning to India'.

The old city is in the vicinity of Hari Parbat Hill and includes the labyrinth of alleyways, mosques and houses that constitute the commercial heart of the city.  The more modern part of city is farther up the Jhelum River, which sweeps through Srinagar.

East of the city is Dal Lake, much of it a maze of intricate waterways.  Dal comprises a series of lakes, including Nagain Lake some 8km from the city center.  Most of the more mordern houseboats are on these lakes.  The famous Mughal gardens, including the Shalimar Bagh and Nishat Bagh, are on the far (east) side of Dal Lake.

Pahalgam

Pahalgam is about 95km east of Srinagar, at an altitude of 2130m.  At the junction of the East and West Lidder Rivers, Pahalgam was a popular trekking base before the present troubles.  Each year in July/August the Sri Amarnath Yatra (pilgrimage) attracts thousands of Hindu prilgrims, who approach the Amarnath cave from this area.

Gulmarg

The large meadow of Gulmarg is 52km south-west of Srinagar at 2730m.  The name means Meadow of Flowers and in spring it's just that.  Also once a popular trekking base, Gulmarg used to be India's premier skiing resort.

 


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