Kottayam
- Introduction
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Population: 166552
STD Code: 0481
When the Portuguese
began forcing Keralan Christians to switch allegiance to Catholicism
in the 14th century, the hierarchy of the the orthodox churches
moved inland to Kottayam. The city is now a place of churches
and seminaries and an important center for rubber production,
perched between the foothills of the Western Ghats on one side and
the backwaters rivers and canals on the other. The town center
is a rather ugly mess of concrete buildings and traffic, but the
residential areas are green and pleasant.
Kottayam district
was the first in India to achieve total literacy and today it is the
headquarters of the daily newspaper Malayala Manorama.
Published in Malayalam, with a circulation of 1.2 million (and a
readership of around 8 million), it's second only to the English
Daily the Times of India. Arundhati Roy, author of The God of
Small Things, (click
here to buy The God of Small Things) was raised near Kottayam.
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Kottayam
- Orientation & Information
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train station, boat jetty and KSRTC bus stand are all few kilometers
from the center. There is a helpful tourist information office
at the KSRTC. The tourist police are also here. Internet
access is available from the efficient Base Station Internet Club (Rs.
60 per hour). You can cash travelers' cheque and get Visa cash
advances at the Canara Band at K K Road.
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Kottayam
- Things to See
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The
Thirnakkara Shiva Temple, in typical Keralan style, is noted for its
Kootittam traditional Sanskrit drama. Sometimes, visitors are
admitted, chances improve if you don the correct grab (dhotis for
men, saris for women). At the Municipal Stage, in the town
center, regular dramas are performed for free. About 3 km
north-west of the center are two Syrian Christian churches.
Cheriapally, St Mary's Orthodox Church, has an elegant facade with
an interior noted for its 400-year-old paintings. Valiyapally,
another St Mary's church, is 100m away. Built in 1550, its
guestbook dates from 1899 and was signed by (among others) the late
Emperor of Ethiopia Haile Selassie in 1956. Backwater trips
can be made to Kollam.
Kottayam
- Places to Stay
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You can
book your hotel online by Clicking
here.
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a hotel in Kottayam and wanted to be listed here, please click
here.
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Kottayam
- Places to Eat
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If you own
a restaurant in Kottayam and wanted to be listed here, please
click here.
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Kottayam
- Getting there and Away
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Bus
Kottayam has
three bus stations. The KSRTC bus stand, on T B Road,
has numerous buses to Thiruvananthapuram. Buses take
about four hours and cost Rs. 39 to Thekkady (Periyar Wildlife
Sanctuary). Seven buses daily come through from
Ernakulam and either terminate at Thekkady, or continue to
Madurai in Tamil Nadu.
The other two
bus stations are private and mainly operate to local destinations
within 10 to 30 kms - although you can get to Munnar and
Kumily from the Nagambaram (new) bus station.
Train
Kottayam is
well served by express trains running between
Thiruvananthapuram (Rs. 48/216 2nd class/three tier AC) and
Ernakulam (Rs. 26/158, two hours).
Boat
The jetty is
about 3 km from the town center. Six ferries daily make
the 2.5 hour trip to Alappuzha for Rs. 6 or you can take the
BTSS 4.5 hours cruise for Rs. 100.
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Kottayam
- Getting Around
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An auto rickshaw
from the train station is Rs. 35 to the ferry (ask for
"jetty") and Rs. 20 to the KSRTC bus station.
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Around Kottyam
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Kumarakom
The Kumarakom
Bird Sanctuary on Vembanad Lake is 16 km west of Kottayam.
Between October and February is the time for cormorants and
ducks. From February to July the night herons and
Siberian storks take their turn. The best time to visit
to see the most birds is around 6.30am.
Ettumanur
The Shiva
Temple at Ettumanur, 12 km north of Kottayam, has inscriptions
dating from 1542, but parts may be older than this. It
is noted for its superb woodcarvings and murals similar to
those at Kochi's Mattancherry Palace. The annual
festival, involving exposition of the idol (Shiva in his
fierce form) and elephant processions, is held in
February/March.
Vijnana
Kala Vedi Center
The Vijnana
Kala Vedi Cultural Center at Aranmula, 10km from
Chengannur, offers courses in Indian arts under expert
supervision. Subjects include Kathakali, Mohiniattam
(classical dance), wood carving, painting, Keralan cooking,
languages and much more. It also arranges for visitors
to meet experts in Ayurvedic medicine, astrology, religion and
mythology.
Sree
Vallabha Temple
Traditional,
all-night Kathakali performances are staged almost every night
at this temple, 2km from Tiruvilla. Non-Hindus may
watch. Tiruvilla, 35 km south of Kottayam, is on the
rail route between Emakulam and Thiruvananthapuram. The
DTPC Complex, 100m before the temple, has very basic double
rooms for Rs. 60.
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Kottayam
- Getting
there and Away
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Bus
The local No. 111 bus between Thiruvanthapuram and Kottayam Beach runs every 30 minutes between 5.30am to 9.30pm and costs
Rs. 5. The bus leaves Thiruvanthapuram, East Fort, Stand
19 on M G Road, 100m south of the municipal bus stand.
At Kottayam, the buses start and finish at the entrance to the
Ashok Beach Resort.
Taxi &
Auto rickshaw A taxi between
Thiruvananthapuram and Kottayam Beach costs approximately Rs.
250; auto rickshaws cost about Rs. 100. It's best to
arrive at the lighthouse end of the beach because it's closer
to the hotels and there are fewer touts. Prepaid taxis
from Thiruvananthapuram
airport to the beach cost around Rs. 190 to 225. Don't
assume that auto rickshaw will be cheaper than a taxi - shop
around.
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