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Bluebell, Heathcote
Bluebell is the most recent of the three crags listed in the Engadine guidebook. Although very limited (there are only 12 listed climbs here), the crag is well worth a visit. The climbs are all overhanging sport pumpfests, ranging from grade 16 through to grade 25.
The crag faces north west, so it can get pretty hot on summer afternoons. There is also plenty of rock on the opposite side of the gully, much of which looks like it would contain some good climbs.
To get there by public transport, catch a train to Heathcote railway station, then it's about a 15 minute walk to the crag. Walk to the end of Bluebell Rd, Heathcote, then follow the fire trail past some houses for about 25m. The cliff is directly in front of the houses, with the descent at the far end. The guidebook mentions a ladder, but the descent at the far end is easier.
The guide for the area is the newly published Sun, Surf and Sandstone online guide book. This crag is described here.
The climbs:
Trust Me I Used Araldite 7m 15
An easy climb with a stupidly placed first hanger. We preclipped the second hanger with a long extender, just to avoid any possibility of a grounder while clipping it. Both hangers are spinning freely on their bolts.
Screaming Cockatoos 10m 18
Easy moves past two fixed bolts and a bomber #2 camalot placement to a ridiculously big move past the 3rd bolt.
Sparky 10m 16
A really nice climb and probably one of the steepest 16s around. Clip the first bolt on Screaming Cockatoos then traverse left to the first fixed hanger. Crank up steeply on jugs past another fixed hanger, with a big move (crux) up to a jug and a #2 camalot placement (if required). A great introduction to the general flavour of the crag!
Welcome to the Body Shop 10m 21
An excellent excursion up a surprisingly steep and sustained bit of rock. Clip the bolt from the ledge, then hard moves to the break above the first fixed hanger (technical crux). Sustained steep moves on jugs the rest of the way up (endurance crux). I only made it as far as the second hanger, then dogged the rest of the route. Reminiscent of Septic Penguins at Narrabeen Steep Side, only more sustained. Watch out for nesting wasps down low!
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