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Boronia Point
Boronia Point is one of the older sport climbing crags in the Blueys, and is located on the Eastern side of the Mt Piddington peninsula. While it is a rather limited crag, there are some excellent routes for harder climbers (with most of the climbing between grades 23 and 30).
The crag is located on a group of buttresses that face predominantly east, however the walls of the buttresses also undulate to the north and south as well, giving plenty of sun / shade options throughout the day. Note that most of the climbs are not protected from the rain, and some of the routes also seep quite badly.
The guide for the area is the "Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains (2nd Edition)" guide book. The newly released "Blue Mountains: Selected Climbing Areas (2nd Edition)" guidebook also contains some additional routes (including those at the Northern Wall).
Northern Wall
This wall was developed primarily by Peter Martin during the mid nineties, and contains some good mid to hard grade routes on a nice orange wall. To get there, follow the Boronia Point track (described below) until the track starts to descend down through the upper cliff line. Just before this point, a faint track heads off to the left, and leads quickly up to a rocky platform. Walk right along the top and either rap off (chain and abseil ring on top), or follow the platform as far right as it goes, then scramble down to a small ledge, chimney down through the hole then walk back left to the start of the routes.
?? 15m 19
The second route from the left, primarily with fixed hangers. A great climb with a good variety of moves on big holds. Two ring bolts, 5 hangers, and another ring bolt (is this climb well protected or what?!) lead to a chain lower off (shared with the 21 just to the left). Best not to clip the third last hanger.
Main Crag
To get to the main part of the crag, look for the "Fairy Bower / Cox's Cave Track" sign on the Mt Piddington loop road. Head down this for about 100m, past one sharp left hand bend, then start looking for a smaller track leading off to the right. This leads all the way to the main wall (about 15 minutes walk).
Lyptus 22m 23
An excellent but ridiculously pumpy route up the guts of the overhanging orange wall. Take along some endurance, since the headwall is nowhere near as easy as it looks. 9 ring bolts to double ring bolt lower off.
Squashed Parrot 15m 14
A rather ordinary excursion up the middle of the black slab. The hardest move by a long way is getting off the ground, then it's pretty much straight forward. Four bolts (take brackets) then step left to the lower off on "CWAB".
Creature Without a Brain 15m 16 (originally graded 17)
Not a bad little warm up, although rather unsustained. 4 bolts (take brackets) and a #1 or #1.5 friend lead to a chain lower off.
Ancient Mariner / Albatross variant 15m 18
A piker's variant to Ancient Mariner. Head up AM to the 3rd bolt, then traverse left to Albatross. A final bolt on the easy headwall leads to the chain lower off. Take brackets.
Dianna Ross 15m 21
A strenuous boulder problem followed by an easy headwall. 4 ring bolts lead to the same chain as for the previous climb.
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