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Celebrity Crag
The Celebrity Crag was developed during 1995 and 1996 in the next gully West of Centennial Glen. To get there, park at the end of the tar on Buxton St, Blackheath (making sure you don't block the driveway), and then follow the walking track down to the right. After about 10 to 15 minutes the track cuts down into a shady little gully and crosses a small creek. Celebrity Crag is made up of a number of distinct buttresses and walls, on both sides of the creek at this point.
With it's variety of sun and shade options, this is a good spot most of the year. It does tend to be shady and cold on winter mornings, however, and the wind can come howling up the gully, making it even colder. Definitely a good place to be on a summer's morning!
The guidebook for the area is the recently published "Blue Mountains Selected Climbing Areas" guide.
Jimmy Cliff
The eastern most of the crags, Jimmy Cliff is reached by crossing back over the creek about 20m after first crossing it, and following a ledge around to the left. There is one crawl section that might be worth roping up for, although the only bolts are at the far end.
Be careful of loose rock here - most of the routes still have some loose stuff waiting to come down. Bring along a helmet for your belayer.
Butt Nuggets 20m 18 (originally graded 19)
The second route from the left. A nice enough route on generally good rock, with a thin crux right at the top. Take care through the middle section since it is a tad runout in one spot. 7 or 8 FHs to a ring bolt and maillon lower off.
Johnny's Jalopies 20m 17 (originally graded 18)
Shares a start with "Butt Nuggets". A really good climb offering quite a variety of sustained and interesting moves, although be careful of loose rock. 7 FHs to double ring bolt lower off.
Mr Scumbag 20m 18
5m right of "Johny's Jalopies", just to the left of the trees. Another nice route on generally good rock (although watch out for a loose shale band at about half height). A short and deceptively hard crux just above the 3rd FH gives this one the grade, although it's not particularly sustained (if a little runout at the top!). 5 FHs to double ring bolt lower off.
Hark the ... 20m 20
The 2nd route right of the trees. Not a bad little route at all, with a cool reachy crux to a pocket at about half height. Less loose rock than some of the other routes here, although the ring bolts don't inspire much confidence (they are homemade mild steel jobbies, and are rusting quite badly). Two back off 'biners for the lower off might not be a bad idea...
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