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Glenbrook Gorge

Glenbrook Gorge is located about 1 hours drive west of Sydney, just south of the township of Glenbrook. The gorge itself is unbelievably scenic, and would be a great destination even if you're not climbing. The creek seems to flow fairly well, so there are plenty of pools to swim in on a hot summer's day. The cliff line faces basically north, and is at quite a low altitude, so it would be a very good winter crag.

The cliff itself reaches about 120m in height, although very few of the climbs are continuous from the bottom to the top. While most of the cliff is unbelievably chossy, there are some patches of good rock, primarily in the area around Annelid Crack (where the rock is generally excellent). Because of the loose nature of much of the rock, helmets are a must while climbing at Glenbrook.

The guide for the area is the "Rockclimbs in the Lower Blue Mountains" guide book.


Recommended Recommended Annelid Crack 40m 11
Marked. A great climb up the blatantly obvious right facing corner crack visible on the lower part of the cliff. While the climbing isn't that technically difficult, it's still solid at the grade, and must have been an amazing first ascent back in 1952 (when Russ Kippax did the first ascent). I wouldn't recommend this as a beginner's lead.

Pitch 1 10m 9
A pleasant little introduction to the climb, on good rock (although watch some of the flakes to the left: they sound loose). Easily up the short wall to a ledge, then continue on up the pleasant corner (good wires and cams the entire way up). Cam and tree belay, then a short walk and scramble left to the second pitch.

Pitch 2 25m 11
A great pitch on excellent, grey, gritty rock. Pleasant laybacking up the initial, steeper corner (take a large hex and a #4 camalot) to a ledge and a bolt (take a bracket). Step up onto the slab above the bolt, then commit to the crux layback. While pretty easy, this section is rather runout unless you've got a #5 camalot (and even it might be too small!). About 4m above the bolt is a good rest stance with some good small and medium cams in two horizontal breaks on the right hand face. An easy top out leads to a rap chain belay just to the right.

While a 40m double rope abseil leads to the ground, descent can be done with a single rope, by breaking the abseil in two (a big red gum is located about 20m to the right, facing out, on the first belay ledge).


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