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Maroubra

An extremely limited area, despite the large amount of rock. I've only found a single boulder problem worth doing (on the northern headland), but there are probably more problems scattered to the north towards Lurline Bay or on the southern point.

The problem I've found is probably about V1 or V2, and IMHO a bit of a classic. Walk north from the beach along the rocks until you come out on a flat, clear rock platform. The problem is in the middle of the large, low undercut cave to your left. Find the line of hanging flakes in the middle of the roof of the cave, and follow it inside for about 3 metres until you find a huge bucket in the roof with a largish dish to its right. Start with your hands in the bucket and your feet pressing against the rim of the dish. Toe and heel hook your way towards the light then up on the honeycomb to the lip. A steel brush might help, since the honeycomb has some kind of dried slime on it that's just a little bit greasy. A spotter or a mattress are recommended since the rock underneath has numerous small pools in it (most of them dry).

There are a few more little problems in and around the cave. There's a gritty traverse down low at the back of the cave, and a hand traverse along the lip of the cave (although be careful with some of the rock - its pretty thin in places). There's also a widely spaced campus board to the right of the cave, but be very careful as the rock is very thin on the edges.

About 20m north of the cave is a nice black wall about 8m high. We've toproped it (at about grade 13 or 14), with some cams and slings on top. Be careful of waves if you're climbing here at high tide, though.

The guide for the area is the newly published Sun, Surf and Sandstone online guide book. This crag is described here.

Map of Maroubra Bouldering


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