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Middle Cove
Although very small, the Middle Cove crag is a nice little spot, situated in the bushy Harold Reid reserve. It faces south-south-west, so its great on summer mornings, but tends to get hot and a bit sunny later in the afternoon.
To get to Harold Reid reserve by public transport, catch a 207 or 208 bus from Wynyard up the Eastern Valley Way. Get off just before McClelland St, Willoughby, then cross the road and walk down Cawarrah Road until Rembrandt Drive heads off to the right. The reserve is clearly marked on the right hand side of the road. The crag is about 30m down the right hand fork of the reserve ring road, on the left hand side of the road.
The guide for the area is the newly published Sun, Surf and Sandstone online guide book. This crag is described here.
Ept 8m 11
Mantle on the bollard, then a worthless ascent on scary ironstone holds.
?? (Not listed in the guidebook) 10m 18 or 21/22
A nice climb between the crack and Enemy of Love. Balancy moves (crux) to the first ring bolt, then a big reach to the slopey break near the second ring bolt using an amazing one finger pocket. Easily up the juggy flake past a damaged (and unusable) fixed hanger to the top. The 18 variant starts right of the first ring bolt, while the 21/22 variant starts just to the left. The damaged fixed hanger means that this climb is probably too runout at the top to lead safely, although you might get a (dodgy!) cam or two in behind the flake.
Enemy of Love 10m 17/19
A nice slab past two BRs to a sandy, slopey break below the small roof. Clip the third BR (crux), then hard moves to good holds on the headwall. Doddle to top and a tree belay (take plenty of slings).
Doggie's Dinner 10m 21
Easily up pockets, then hard moves to good holds just below first bolt (quite a high and scary clip!). Crux moves up and right to a small, slopey, sandy pocket, then more easily to second bolt and up to roof. Traverse out left (small cam?) and up to belay off trees well back from the edge.
Unnameable Arete 9m 21
A great pumpfest up a steep and juggy arete: do it! Easily to first BR, then crux moves to straighten out and deadpoint up to an enormous jug below the second BR. More easily up to nose, then hard moves onto nose to clip third BR. Block and tree belay.
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