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Mt Piddington
Mt Piddington, located about 2km south of Mt Victoria, contains some fantastic climbs, most of which are trad, but
there are some nice sport routes as well (generally in the harder grades). It faces west, so is best in the morning
in summer, and the afternoon in winter. The climbs are between 8m and 80m in height, with the majority between 20
and 60 metres high. Quite a few rap stations have been set up at various points along the cliff top, so descent
usually isn't too difficult after completing a climb.
Unfortunately, because of its popularity, Mt Piddington tends to be overcrowded much of the time. In addition to
"normal" climbers, tour groups also frequent the crag, making many climbs innaccessable for hours on end. This has
had a detrimental affect on some of the climbs: Tombstone Wall, for example, is an obvious line of worn holds when
viewed from the belay. Your best bet is to look for less travelled climbs and do them while waiting for the classics
to become available.
The guides for the area are the "Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains (2nd Edition)" and "Blue Mountains: Selected
Climbing Areas (2nd Edition)" guide books.
The Bonatti Crack 8m 12
A great micro-route, shame it isn't longer! The obvious hand crack down and to the right (facing out) of the
chopped steps, with a triangular alcove at half height. Offers some great jamming through the bulge.
Taurus 21m 16
A pleasant little romp with some strenuous pulls at about half height and a pleasant headwall. Tree belay well
back from the edge.
Downhill from the Bonatti Crack is a huge boulder (the Helen Boulder), with the following routes.
Spastic Octopus 10m 18
A nice short route, with some very thin and tenuous moves straight off the ground. I would strongly recommend
you don't lead this one, since both bolts are very rusted and hanging out from the rock rather alarmingly. Tree
belay.
Helen 12m 15
The thin crack just right of SO. A great little route, with some very tenuous moves straight off the ground
and a trick crux almost straight away. Small wires and a #1 friend lead to a tree belay.
Back to the main cliff.
The Spartan 50m 16
A really good route on generally excellent rock (despite appearances!). The first two pitches are sheltered
from the rain (as we found out!), provided it isn't blowing too much.
Pitch 1 12m 13
A rather awkward pitch, but the rock is surprisingly good and there are plenty of larger cam placements (#2 to
#4 camalot sizes). Belay on the first ledge, with a single BB up and to the right, and good small cams in a
vertical crack to the left of the bolt.
Pitch 2 30m 16
The pitch of the route, with a slabby offwidth corner crack up to the roof, then a fantastic, exposed
traverse left to the belay. The slabby offwidth crack is surprisingly tough (I thought it was the crux), and
gear is rather tricky to arrange (take at least one and preferably two #5 camalots), but a BR just under the
roof calms the nerves! Jam (hand, elbow and head) the undulating roof crack, with the hardest moves under the
lowest section of the roof. The roof crack varies quite a bit in size, with lots of mid to large cams for
protection. At the end of the traverse a short chimney leads to a small alcove (a sheltered natural belay if
it's raining), and a small belay ledge out on the face (2 BBs). Be careful of rope drag.
Pitch 3 8m 15
A short, unexciting pitch with one hard move cranking through the overhang on jugs (#3 camalot for protection).
Tree belay (or huddle in the cave further up the hill if it's raining!).
Joseph (1st 2 pitches only) 33m 14
A nice little route, although a little discontinuous. Up the lovely hand and fist crack then continue up the
corner to the tree on the ledge to the left. Rap off.
Eternity (1st pitch only) 25m 18
It may be hard to believe, but this pitch is even better than it looks: the rock is excellent, the climbing is
engaging and sustained the entire way and the protection is plentiful. Take a lot of small to mid size gear
(including a couple of cams or hexes about #1 camalot size), but nothing larger than #2.5 friend (a #3 camalot
won't be much use). Belay off rap chain and old BBs then rap off. One of the best single pitch routes in the
mountains (or anywhere!).
Pharoah 30m 14
A pleasant direct start to SSCC1 up an aesthetic line. While the lower crack is horribly offwidth, the climbing
avoids any sort of trench warfare by using the fantastic juggy breaks (which take great small to mid size gear) and a
variety of face holds. From the tree up the climb follows SSCC1.
SSCC1 33m 14
An enjoyable and varied climb up the arete and crack at the left hand end of the Eternity wall. Start below
Carthaginian and traverse right to the arete and up it to the first bolt. Traverse right again to the tree and
fist crack and follow this to the top (the final corner is shared with Carthaginian). To get off, walk carefully
right (might be an idea to stay on belay) to the rap chains above Eternity.
Carthaginian 33m 15
An absolutely classic climb up a nice clean corner crack system. Step up onto block then layback (#1 camalot) up
past shallow scoop to stance. #2 camalot then stem and layback up to great rest at the base of the two cracks.
#0.5 friend in right hand crack, then an easy move up with a bomber #7 rock in the right hand crack just below where
it widens. Crux moves up twin cracks (#4 camalot in left hand crack) to small tree. Easier past small trees to
ledge with a block resting on it. Chimney up corner behind block (#0 friend in corner crack - watch the drag), then
stem and face climb up corner (#0.5 friend) to ledge on right arete. Single bolt belay (high up in orange rock),
with slings around boulders or trees. Walk carefully right 5m to rap chains above Eternity, and rap off.
Psychopath 28m 18 (originally graded 17)
Simply fantastic - probably the best climb I've done at Piddo (yes - I do think it's a tad better than Eternity!).
Sustained, steep and superb jamming to start, followed by more excellent moves up to the chimney. From here up the
climbing eases off somewhat, but it's still pretty engaging and damn fine! Take a standard rack to #3 camalot size,
with a couple of duplicates of #2 camalot sized pieces, plus a number of big slings for slinging a huge block for
the belay. To get off walk right and rap back down Eternity. If Eternity is busy, you can also follow the track
left to the rap chains above Angular Crack.
The Phantom 31m 14
A great climb up another one of those beautiful Piddo corner cracks. Can be linked into a single pitch, although be
very careful to extend any gear at the top of the initial corner. Of course this also means that you'll need to take
care on the traverse - you wouldn't want to power dive down the corner! Save a #1 camalot for the move onto the
headwall.
Avago 33m 15
An excellent and varied route that is surprisingly sustained for the first 15m or so. The initial jagged crack takes
some fantastic (if somewhat slippery) jams and holds as much gear as you can throw at it. A short layback above the
scary looking but solid spike leads to some strenuous moves up the overhanging face to the right. An easy chimney
(with little or no gear) leads the final 15m or so to the top and a tree belay. Take some wires, duplicates of mid
size cams, and some mid to large hexes (plus slings for the belay). The rap station above Angular Crack is 10m to the
left (facing the cliff).
Tombstone Wall 30m 15
A pleasant excursion across and up a very worn and overclimbed line. Nice but tricky moves up the crack (wires or
small cams) to the infamous mantle. Up and right to a juggy break (hexes / wires / cams) then traverse right to a
bolt almost at the arete (the two bolts closer in are a grade 18 variant). Easily up to the steep top section (2 BRs)
then jugs to the top (2 BBs). Take a variety of cams for this climb, and double ropes are recommended as well.
Flake Crack 53m 17
Really pleasant climbing in a classical style. Usually done in one pitch but can be split in two if necessary. Many
people runout the layback up Saxby's Flake, but a #3.5 camalot will go in perfectly. From here a lovely cruisy crack
leads diagonally right then up to and through the small roof. The big chockstone under the roof shifts, but hasn't
fallen out (yet!). A #4 camalot is nice for just above the small roof at the top. Manky double BB belay. To get
off, traverse right to the chains above Angular Crack (I'd recomend you stay roped up for this bit).
Faith 12m 8
A rather chossy little journey up the obvious corner left of Flake Crack. Cam and BR to the rap chain belay above
Hope.
Hope 14m 14
A great little route, pity it isn't longer! Up the obvious finger crack (many bomber wires / hexes), pull "the move"
then doddle up to the chains on the ledge. Rap off.
Sincerity 14m 13 (originally graded 10)
A fun slab climb with a groovy mantle at the top. 4 BRs, then step right to the rap chain above Hope. A good
beginners lead.
Sincerity Direct Finish 16m 21
A reachy, thin and tenuous move past the 4th BR on Sincerity, then step right (clipping one of the 2 oddly placed BBs)
to belay as for Sincerity.
Charity 14m 10
A pleasant route up the wide corner crack left of Sincerity. Easy moves up to about 2/3 height, then crux layback
up and right to the belay ledge. I then placed a bit of gear, extended it a mile and traversed right and down to the
ledge and chains above Hope (7m to the right). Take big gear (#3 and #4 camalots and large hexes).
Prologue (first pitch only) 15m 13 (originally graded 11)
A steep and grunty (and fun!) crack, with some pretty strenuous moves down low and lots of bomber gear. Belay off a
single BB and a hanger + maillon at the first ledge, then rap off the maillon.
Amen Corner 30m 18
Fantastic climbing up the soaring corner crack separating the Psychodrama wall from the Janicepts wall. This climb
offers superb rock, bomber protection and sustained climbing. Take a good variety of gear up to about #4 camalot
size. Belay off the chain at the top of the corner, from which it's (just) possible to rap to the ground on a 60m
rope. Take some tat for the chain, or carefully use the poorly placed maillon (the rope gets pinched by the chain
links to the right).
Hocus Pocus 49m 8
An easy ramble up a long, juggy, slab. Sports a ridiculous number of bolts, requiring either back cleaning or a
truckload of gear, although I'd recommend back cleaning (or skipping bolts) since the rope drag can get out of control
towards the top. Two double ring bolt belays on the face allow the climb to be done as two or more pitches, which is
definitely recommended if you've only got a 50m rope, or if you're climbing out with packs. Belay off a single BB to
the right and a couple of good hexes under the large block behind this. A good beginners lead. Not bad as an alternate
exit to Piddington, since it's an easy climb even with packs on, and there's a track that leads back to the Horne's Pt
Road.
Curtain Call 26m 18
The obvious thin crack left of HP. Easy rambling to about half height then it suddenly becomes tenuous and poorly
protected (take care!). A stance below the final bulge offers bomber gear (check out the fantastic wire just
over the bulge) with a couple of strenuous moves to gain the headwall. Belay off a chain on the (loose!) ledge to
the left, then rap off.
Note: a doubled 50m rope will stop about 6m up the slab - be very careful
not to rap off the end of your rope!
Gemini (first pitch only) 25m 19
I can't believe this route doesn't get any stars!! If you're after superb fist jamming up a steep crack
splitting a dead blank wall of superb orange stone, then this route is for you!! Take gear to #3 camalot size (a
#3.5 camalot in addition to a #3 camalot will be comforting!). Belay off the double ring bolts above Flight Line,
then rap off.
Genesis (first pitch only) 58m 16
An excellent climb up an excellent line. Easy jug hauling to the fern and stump then a long and sustained crux to the
pedestal at the top of the twin cracks. Easier climbing (but take care with your gear) to a cosy belay ledge. Take a
lot of big gear for this pitch: at least 2 #4 camalots, a #5 camalot and #10 and #11 hexes.
Cardiac Arete (second pitch only) 38m 17
An exposed and runout pitch up some crappy rock (take care!). Start from the left hand end of the belay ledge of
Genesis, then straight up (about 2m left of the arete) to an awful bolt at about 10m (take some tape to tie it off
with). Step right around the undercut arete (crux) to another dodgy bolt then easily to the top (trees for the belay).
Would probably be exciting rather than scary if the bolts were of better quality (or if you can sucker someone else
into leading it!).
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