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New York
New York is one of the recently developed Blue Mountains sport crags, and is located to the East of the Mt York Rd, about 3km north of the township of Mt Victoria. From Mt Victoria, drive towards Mt York until you see a "Historic Wells" sign on the left (western) side of the road. Continue for another 500m or so until another "Historic Wells" sign appears to the left (this one faces towards Mt York, so can't be seen very easily when driving from Mt Victoria). Park here and follow the path to the right down the hill to the gully.
The crag is split into left and right sides (facing out), with the left side being generally shorter and chossier, and the better stuff on the right side.
While many would disagree, I was rather disappointed with the crag. It's probably best described as a Sydney crag in the Blue Mountains: the routes are generally short (less than 15m), some of the bolting looks suspect (click here for an interesting article on staples) and while there are a few patches of good to excellent rock, most of it is only of fair quality (with a fair amount of choss about the place, too). Probably not bad for a day visit or two, but certainly not a classic Blueys crag.
The guide for the area is the "Blue Mountains: Selected Climbing Areas (2nd Edition)" guide book.
Left Side
Once you reach the bottom of the gully, continue straight ahead below the overhanging cliff line.
Landmines for Line-Dancers 14m 17
Not a bad little route, with quite a desperate start if you're short (I'd recommend stick clipping the first bolt). Some nice moves on good holds up the headwall. 6 staples to double U bolt lower off.
Are You Loathsome Tonight? 12m 17 (originally graded 18)
Another nice enough route that shares the start of the previous climb. At the 4th staple, head right and up on generally good holds past another staple to a double U bolt lower off.
Fox Force Five 15m 16 (originally graded 17)
The prominent overhanging arete just left of Spoonbender. Much easier than it looks, with lots of positive holds and a surprising number of rests. 3 BRs (take brackets), 2 fixed hangers and a double maillon lower off. A #1 or #2 camalot can be placed between the 2nd and 3rd bolts.
Spoonbender 15m 14 (originally graded 15)
Start on the right hand side of the undercut arete, with a small cairn underneath. A rather boring little slab climb on rather sandy, and at times loose, rock. 4 BRs (take brackets) to double BBs.
Right Side
Once you reach the bottom of the gully, cross the gully and tend right underneath the crag.
Exploding Budgies 13m 18 (originally graded 19)
A rather contrived and silly little route sprouting a ridiculous number of bolts in it's upper section. Start in the orange rock to the right, below a single BR. At the bolt traverse left to the cave, then doddle up to the 2 staples (be careful with the 1st one - it's bolted very close to the hollow flake on the left hand side of the cave). A short but nice traverse left along the pockets leads to the final moves of "Silence of the Cams". At this point the route continues left and up to a double U anchor lower off, but I couldn't be stuffed doing it, so headed up SotC instead.
Silence of the Cams 12m 19
A good route up some quite bizarre pockets. Surprisingly sustained and pumpy the entire way up, with a lovely mantle at the top to keep you on your toes! The climb has a BR, 2 staples then a plethora of staples and fixed hangers in it's final 4m or so. The fixed hangers appear to be part of a different climb (which isn't in the guidebook) and I wouldn't bother clipping any of them.
Islamic Cowgirls Cry "Jeehad!" 10m 17
Located toward the far end of the right hand side, on the front face of a small wall with two bolted routes on it. ICCJ is the right hand route. Not a bad little route, however the crux is up to the first ring, and is protected by a very dodgy #2 or #3 rock in a surface placement, making this a rather necky lead (well, as necky as you can get on a 10m climb!). 2 rings lead to a double ring lower off.
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