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Shipley Upper
Shipley Upper is a very scenic crag located near Centennial Glen, just south of Blackheath. The crag has
been developed almost exclusively as a sport crag, and the majority of the routes are grade 24+, however
the black slabs at the right hand end feature about a dozen climbs up to about grade 20.
The guide for the area is the "Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains (2nd Edition)" guide book or the more
recently released "Blue Mountains Selected Climbing Areas" guide.
Climbs described right to left, facing the cliff.
The Giles Bradbury Memorial Stretch 12m 18
Cool moves out and over the "surfboard" - just a shame they aren't 20m up a route! You can continue up the
crappy, easy dinnerplate wall to the top, although I'd recommend you just jump off after mantling onto the
surfboard.
These Dogs are Whippets 15m 18 (originally graded 21)
Not a bad little romp although not worth 21 unless you do it in a really contrived way! Take 2 small cams
for low down and brackets for the 5 or 6 BRs en route. Double ring bolt lower off.
Hold on to Your Hats 15m 18
A nice enough climb offering some thought provoking moves at times. Take a #1 friend for a poor placement
before the first bolt, and #0.75 and #1 camalots for the wall itself. There are also 5 BRs (take brackets)
with a double ring bolt lower off just below the top of the wall.
Trinity 25m 13
A nice, if rather runout excursion up the right hand end of the main slab. The crux is up to the first bolt
(at about 12m), so take care. A #1 or #2 camalot will go in lower down, however it may not stop you from
hitting the first ledge. 2 more bolts (take brackets) lead to the top, with a stupidly placed chain over
the top (better to pull up the rope and rap off, rather than lowering off).
Nude Tuesday 15m 19 (originally graded 20)
The line of 5 new ring bolts between "Burning Jowls" (not listed here) and SM. A pleasant enough climb, with
some nice delicate slab moves down low and a groovy reach move just below the lower off.
Stormy Monday 18m 16 (originally graded 17)
A rather ordinary jaunt up a pleasant slab, then up a steep, lichenous and rather loose headwall. The bonus
being you get to take some of the holds home with you! A #1 friend then 5 carrots, and I traversed left to the
double ring bolt lower off on TBG.
The Bandoline Grip 18m 16 (originally graded 18)
A nice headwall with good rock and nice moves, it's just a shame the whole climb isn't the same! Take care
between the first and second bolts, since you end up very runout, and there isn't much opportunity for
natural gear. On the positive side, the climbing is really easy. 4 carrots lead to a double ring bolt lower
off.
Country Special 18m 19
I must have been having a good day to think this was 18! After the first BR (at the initial bulge), the climb
becomes dangerously runout past a chopped bolt to some good cams (#0, #0.5 friends) at half height. While
the climbing isn't that difficult, take great care through this section. The crux over the final bulge and up
the little headwall is well protected by 3 more BRs.
NOTE: The right hand lower off on this climb is loose! Click
here for details.
The next 5 routes are all very similar in style, with hard starts, lovely middle sections and usually a hard
move or two towards the end. They are all well worth doing.
Girlie Germs 17m 21
Not a bad little route, with a delicate crux past the 3rd ring bolt, a cruisy middle section and a sting in the
tail. 7 ring bolts in all, with a ring bolt and U anchor lower off.
Flaming Flamingoes (1st pitch only) 17m 20
A delicate and technical start leads past 6 or 7 ring bolts to a double ring bolt lower off. Check out the little
ledge just above the second bolt - any idea what those weird looking dots are? Ancient worm castings perhaps?
Jack High 17m 20 (originally graded 19)
An excellent route on perfect orange rock. This route is surprisingly sustained the whole way up, with a crux past
the first bolt and another past the fifth. While it probably isn't technically any harder than the first pitch of
"Hot Flyer", it's definitely more sustained and therefore a harder lead (even though it was originally graded 2 full
grades easier!). 6 ring bolts lead to a double ring bolt lower off.
The Lardy Lady's Lats (1st pitch only) 17m 20
Nice technical slab moves to start and then cruise all the way to the anchors (traverse right to the lower off above
JH). 6 or 7 ring bolts.
Hot Flyer (1st pitch only) 17m 20 (originally graded 21)
A fantastic pitch on gorgous orange rock. Probably a lot less intimidating to lead since it was rebolted with rings.
While the crux is probably between the first and second rings, the moves remain thought provoking and relatively
sustained for most of the route. 5 rings to a double ring bolt lower off.
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